No problem @Crom My apologies for not being more explicit, I was in a rush and forgot. I mentioned them and then failed to point you to them!!
I do also like the fact that simple things that are day to day on social media, like tagging; now work properly here. This addition can cut down on—or at least help with—minimising quoting, as you can tag someone in a part or your comment that replies to them specifically, without necessarily quoting that text. (especially if its the very next post)
There are some teething pains, as expected, but with patience and the hive mind that is DIYA, I think we can work through it and I expect be better for it. It's very popular to bash the forum it seems lately, but I think its important to remember this—very deliberately and stubbornly—isn't a big, commercial forum, with the resources that come with that and moderation; by its nature will never please everyone. The brains trust here is significant to say the least and its important to remember that IMO, some of our most valuable and knowledgeable members here are MODs and they give very generously of their time. People often seem to treat them like they are their staff ... I wont go into detail here as its not the right place.
Please excuse the soapbox and @Crom, this is not aimed at you, so please don't personalise it mate
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Perhaps, given the factional in-fighting that had gotten out of hand, it's a good time to take a breath and have a think about what people want out of the forum and what they are able to give back. Don't put a time limit on me, but I have a few circuits and PCB layouts that have come about through my own R&D that would work as (slightly pared back) individual projects and I hope to get them ready for people to play with/build in the new year. They will require reasonable SMD skill, or a skillet/hot air, but people kinda have to get onboard there IMO, if they want to stay using the highest performing parts. I personally will certainly be trying to keep the hot-air focused on my soldering. There is so little time to spend on this love of mine; i'd rather it not be a battlefield.
You don't need to be an expert to contribute; at least thats what i'm hoping.
I do also like the fact that simple things that are day to day on social media, like tagging; now work properly here. This addition can cut down on—or at least help with—minimising quoting, as you can tag someone in a part or your comment that replies to them specifically, without necessarily quoting that text. (especially if its the very next post)
There are some teething pains, as expected, but with patience and the hive mind that is DIYA, I think we can work through it and I expect be better for it. It's very popular to bash the forum it seems lately, but I think its important to remember this—very deliberately and stubbornly—isn't a big, commercial forum, with the resources that come with that and moderation; by its nature will never please everyone. The brains trust here is significant to say the least and its important to remember that IMO, some of our most valuable and knowledgeable members here are MODs and they give very generously of their time. People often seem to treat them like they are their staff ... I wont go into detail here as its not the right place.
Please excuse the soapbox and @Crom, this is not aimed at you, so please don't personalise it mate
. Perhaps, given the factional in-fighting that had gotten out of hand, it's a good time to take a breath and have a think about what people want out of the forum and what they are able to give back. Don't put a time limit on me, but I have a few circuits and PCB layouts that have come about through my own R&D that would work as (slightly pared back) individual projects and I hope to get them ready for people to play with/build in the new year. They will require reasonable SMD skill, or a skillet/hot air, but people kinda have to get onboard there IMO, if they want to stay using the highest performing parts. I personally will certainly be trying to keep the hot-air focused on my soldering. There is so little time to spend on this love of mine; i'd rather it not be a battlefield.
You don't need to be an expert to contribute; at least thats what i'm hoping.
it can be leveraged to good effect for parts of your post that are borderline off topic, so people can choose to read it, or not.
Not a problem @iancanada, I agree. You can fit a lot more content in the same space with the classic layout; at least so far anyway. Dark mode on the new theme is pretty good though, so I do hope they can find a happy medium. Perhaps the new style works better with mobile, but I tend not to do much forum stuff on my phone.
Not atl all @InspectorGadget. You pointed me in the right direction and all it took was a little hunting to find one solution...then another, even better, came along. Kind of like what happens with this hobby!!
I still haven't had any luck getting SinePI to work with the McDualXO board.
Thanks to ian's suggestion the relay now has enough current to switch but with a single oscillator attached, no dice.
I tried the SinePI in a FIFOPI and that works perfectly. I then tried a single one of Andrea's sine > square wave converter boards in place of the sinePI and that works fine. I was worried that it might be because I only had one clock connected but the McDualXO board finds the clock and locks fine with the other converter but not the sinePI.
@iancanada any ideas about what I can try next?
Many thanks,
Crom
Thanks to ian's suggestion the relay now has enough current to switch but with a single oscillator attached, no dice.
I tried the SinePI in a FIFOPI and that works perfectly. I then tried a single one of Andrea's sine > square wave converter boards in place of the sinePI and that works fine. I was worried that it might be because I only had one clock connected but the McDualXO board finds the clock and locks fine with the other converter but not the sinePI.
@iancanada any ideas about what I can try next?
Many thanks,
Crom
Hi Ian,
I finally got the time to assemble your latest goodies and i‘m a little bit bummed….
The oven kit doesn‘t fit the larger SC-cut crystals. 😬
The too small mounting PCB isn‘t really a problem, but you can’t fit both heater elements when you use the hammond case unless you omit one or both silicon pads, but i don‘t wanna do that.
Is one heater sufficient ? Or i could mount both heaters on top of the crystal…
What do you think?
…and i have another question: do you have s datasheet for the heater elements?
Cheerio,
Mirko
I finally got the time to assemble your latest goodies and i‘m a little bit bummed….
The oven kit doesn‘t fit the larger SC-cut crystals. 😬
The too small mounting PCB isn‘t really a problem, but you can’t fit both heater elements when you use the hammond case unless you omit one or both silicon pads, but i don‘t wanna do that.
Is one heater sufficient ? Or i could mount both heaters on top of the crystal…
What do you think?
…and i have another question: do you have s datasheet for the heater elements?
Cheerio,
Mirko
Attachments
Hi Mirko,
That crystal is really too big. What frequency it is? The mounting bracket PCB was design for the standard size crystal. So it doesn't fit the big crystal. You need to use something else to hold the heating elements.
One element is fine, but not as good as two. If it is possible, you can try to put both of them on top side.
Please let me know if you have update.
Regards,
Ian
to be fair, that crystal almost looks to big for the PCB itself... tight near the edge for me anyway. You may be able to find a suitable, but thinner interface material at https://www.kerafol.com/en/thermal-management/
the soft-therm range perhaps. Finding somewhere to buy a small amount may be a struggle though
Hi Ian,
thanks for the quick reply,
it's the 5.6448 MHz crystal from Andrea´s group buy, and it was more expensive than the others, 75€ instead of 45€.
i think the PCB would be just fine when i modify the mounting, i figure something out.
and i will test, if one heater is enough to heat up the crystal properly, if not, ill use both.
and @InspectorGadget, thanks for the suggestion. there is a very thin thermo adhesive tape in the oven kit, that's not the problem,
the silicon pads are for anti-vibration and i don't want to omit that.
cheers,
Mirko
@M_Balou you have the same crystal as I was supplied with. It's quite the monster isn't it! I am currently experimenting with how best to solve this one. My current plan is to not use the supplied PCB but to wrap the heater / crystal together with tape as that is thinner and will go in the box. I'm not bothered about what it looks like as it will be inside the box!
Hello,
I just moved from "Allo to Ian".
What did i do?
I had a setup with:
Allo Shanti > Allo USBridge Sig > Allo DigiOne Sig.
Quite nice sounding streamer to feed my Hypex Fusion plate amp/speaker setup.
I changed to:
LifePo MKIII > RPI 4 > FifoPi Q3 with Accusilicon 318 B clocks > TransporterPi
New setup is awesome!
Hooked the Ian stuff up and after a little warmup of the amps it was clear that this setup is allready better sounding. More ease, more black background, more detail.
Interesting to find out how things will develop after some burn-in time.
I just moved from "Allo to Ian".
What did i do?
I had a setup with:
Allo Shanti > Allo USBridge Sig > Allo DigiOne Sig.
Quite nice sounding streamer to feed my Hypex Fusion plate amp/speaker setup.
I changed to:
LifePo MKIII > RPI 4 > FifoPi Q3 with Accusilicon 318 B clocks > TransporterPi
New setup is awesome!
Hooked the Ian stuff up and after a little warmup of the amps it was clear that this setup is allready better sounding. More ease, more black background, more detail.
Interesting to find out how things will develop after some burn-in time.
You'll probably grow to love Ian's implementation of his suite of compatible boards. I've been listening to the first streamer I built using his boards for the past couple of years. The best sounding DAC/Streamer I've built. Been using a pair of Uni-fi UB5 and the combo was been worth the price of admission! You can mix and match to configure a DAC/Strmr to make your own custom system. Very versatile.
You'll won't be disappointed. My next upgrade will be active speakers. Elac Navis.
Have fun with your new system.
Just a quick question concerning the FifoPi:
Would I inevitably need the FifoPi and its re-clocking functionality (possibly with upgraded XOs) when I send the digital signal to my DAC through I2S? My DAC offers re-clocking of all digital inputs using Crystek femto clocks. Would there still be any benefit?
I am currently planning to use „just“ the Isolator II and the HDMIpi MKII Transmitter from Ian Canada…
Would I inevitably need the FifoPi and its re-clocking functionality (possibly with upgraded XOs) when I send the digital signal to my DAC through I2S? My DAC offers re-clocking of all digital inputs using Crystek femto clocks. Would there still be any benefit?
I am currently planning to use „just“ the Isolator II and the HDMIpi MKII Transmitter from Ian Canada…
Good day.I have a problem with ReClockPi. Until recently, i used a bundle Raspberry PI 3b+ >> FifoPiQ3 >>TransportPi. Connecting the MCLK signal from the FifoPi to TransportPi MCLK using a u.fl coaxial cable. Music is played using RoonRock on IntelNuc,Roon+Qobuz,RopieeeXL on Raspberry PI 3b . Raspberry PI 3b+ receives an external independent power supply 5.0V LifePO4MKIII. FifoPiQ3 receives an external independent power supply 3.3V LifePO4MKIII. TransportPi receives an external independent power supply 3.3V LifePO4MKIII. Everything works fine. After installing the ReClockPi the sound disappeared. ReClockPi receives an external independent power supply 3.3V LifePO4MKIII(Remove L1 at bottom side of the ReClockPi PCB, solder a DC terminal block connector,)
Power indicator on Reclockpi D1 lit.
I tried to connect the MCLK in different ways: Connecting the MCLK signal from the FifoPi to TransportPi MCLK and connecting the MCLK/2 output from ReClockPi to TransportPi MCLK.No sound.
Has anyone faced the same problem? Or does he know what the problem might be?
Power indicator on Reclockpi D1 lit.
I tried to connect the MCLK in different ways: Connecting the MCLK signal from the FifoPi to TransportPi MCLK and connecting the MCLK/2 output from ReClockPi to TransportPi MCLK.No sound.
Has anyone faced the same problem? Or does he know what the problem might be?
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Can I force my ES9038Q2M DAC HAT to use the onboard SPDIF input when on top of FIFOPi?
I have a RPi-ReceiverPi-FIFOPi-ES9038Q2M-I/V stack which works nicely with all my sources. However, the latency caused by the FIFO is annoying when connected to my television and I would therefore like to add an SPDIF input after the FIFO. Doable?
I have a RPi-ReceiverPi-FIFOPi-ES9038Q2M-I/V stack which works nicely with all my sources. However, the latency caused by the FIFO is annoying when connected to my television and I would therefore like to add an SPDIF input after the FIFO. Doable?