One additional question if you don't mind - does the orientation of the DIP14 clocks matter? I plugged in my AccuSillicon clocks as closely as I could to the stock clocks that come in FIFOPi Q3 Ultimate, but wasn't sure if the pin layout mattered at all.
I also today unfortunately figured out how fragile those u.fl connectors are. I think I was able to repair the one and it all works fine, but going to try to only unplug from those when absolutely necessary.
And am I right that if one is powering HDMIPi directly from LifePO4 AND has all 4 clock wires in place, that the GPIO header isn't really even used at that point?
I also today unfortunately figured out how fragile those u.fl connectors are. I think I was able to repair the one and it all works fine, but going to try to only unplug from those when absolutely necessary.
And am I right that if one is powering HDMIPi directly from LifePO4 AND has all 4 clock wires in place, that the GPIO header isn't really even used at that point?
There is a tool for unplugging u.fl connectors. Mouser and Digikey carry them. There is also a tool for plugging them in, but its expensive. From my point of view, properly torqued SMA connectors beat u.fl. The latter are made out of a thin, bent-up piece of sheet metal that can easily loose its initial tight connection.
Hirose indicates 30 connections for a UFL connector
https://www.mouser.fr/datasheet/2/185/U.FL_catalog-939761.pdf
https://www.mouser.fr/datasheet/2/185/U.FL_catalog-939761.pdf
Is that 30 connections presuming one uses the correct insertion and removal tools so as not to overly stress/bend the spring contacts?
https://www.newark.com/hirose-hrs/u-fl-lp-in/insertion-tool-rf-coaxial-connector/dp/54Y9070
https://www.newark.com/hirose-hrs/u-fl-lp-n2/extraction-tool-u-fl-lp-series/dp/50P8855
https://www.newark.com/hirose-hrs/u-fl-lp-in/insertion-tool-rf-coaxial-connector/dp/54Y9070
https://www.newark.com/hirose-hrs/u-fl-lp-n2/extraction-tool-u-fl-lp-series/dp/50P8855
Orientation of the clocks matter.
PINOUT
PIN 1 oE
PIN 7 GND
PIN 8 OUT
PIN 14 Vcc
I cheated on my first install as I just copied from more experienced builders:
For translation in your language, just check the translate option on the upper left of this page Na de succesvolle avonturen met de Allo Kali Reclocker in - BerryStreamer met Ian Canada FiFoPi
PINOUT
PIN 1 oE
PIN 7 GND
PIN 8 OUT
PIN 14 Vcc
I cheated on my first install as I just copied from more experienced builders:
For translation in your language, just check the translate option on the upper left of this page Na de succesvolle avonturen met de Allo Kali Reclocker in - BerryStreamer met Ian Canada FiFoPi
I did not consider possible releases of clocks (AS338). Even if it's false hope, it got me thinking about diminising returns.
I tried ordering low profile clocks from MagicXtal last month, but too much red tape. If Accusilicon does release DIP14 SOTA 338 in the near future, given diminishing returns, I think that's a better fit for my needs. With MagicXtal, it pretty much static tech at this point. While Accusilicon seems to be improving and working on bettering their products.
At some point, it makes more sense to pursue the AS338 versus the hoop jumping it takes for MagicXtal.
I wish I could take a drive to their HQ in Santa Clara to confirm, but cannot justify the trip.
I tried ordering low profile clocks from MagicXtal last month, but too much red tape. If Accusilicon does release DIP14 SOTA 338 in the near future, given diminishing returns, I think that's a better fit for my needs. With MagicXtal, it pretty much static tech at this point. While Accusilicon seems to be improving and working on bettering their products.
At some point, it makes more sense to pursue the AS338 versus the hoop jumping it takes for MagicXtal.
I wish I could take a drive to their HQ in Santa Clara to confirm, but cannot justify the trip.
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Thank you A123 - mine are setup correctly, thankfully. Always nice to verify though.
Pretty much the only thing I've left to figure out with the current rig is whether or not I need to set s-mpd to master mode, to take the DAC clock away from Pi and hand it off to FIFO, or if that's already the default behavior.
Going to give it a serious listen tonight.
Pretty much the only thing I've left to figure out with the current rig is whether or not I need to set s-mpd to master mode, to take the DAC clock away from Pi and hand it off to FIFO, or if that's already the default behavior.
Going to give it a serious listen tonight.
In the photo, the lower clock (90) is on the far end of the Q3.
I haven't gone deep enough in the schematic to know if it matters.
So you may want to double-check the manual:
[90, 98] or [98, 90] or it doesn't matter.
Mine is [44, 45], not [45, 44].
I think the slot0, slot1 does matter. But could be wrong...
Maybe thats why you can't get above DSD64?
I haven't gone deep enough in the schematic to know if it matters.
So you may want to double-check the manual:
[90, 98] or [98, 90] or it doesn't matter.
Mine is [44, 45], not [45, 44].
I think the slot0, slot1 does matter. But could be wrong...
Maybe thats why you can't get above DSD64?
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No worries.
I just associated:
XO1 (U13) = Clock frequency group 1
Fs supported
44.1KHz DSD64
88.2KHz DSD128
176.4KHz DSD256
352.8KHz DSD512
705.6KHz DSD1024
XO2 (U7) = Clock frequency group 2
Fs supported
48KHz
96KHz
192KHz
384KHz
768KHz
But it doesn't specially mention orientation.
The single clock I just assumed meant [X01 = 90] or [XO2 = 98], not [XO1 = 98] or [XO2 = 90].
Could be wrong, but it's fun trying to figure it all out.
Anyways, have fun. Will check back here end of week.
I got my OLEDs working, but one is defective so having to focus on returning and making other purchases before the week starts.
I just associated:
XO1 (U13) = Clock frequency group 1
Fs supported
44.1KHz DSD64
88.2KHz DSD128
176.4KHz DSD256
352.8KHz DSD512
705.6KHz DSD1024
XO2 (U7) = Clock frequency group 2
Fs supported
48KHz
96KHz
192KHz
384KHz
768KHz
But it doesn't specially mention orientation.
The single clock I just assumed meant [X01 = 90] or [XO2 = 98], not [XO1 = 98] or [XO2 = 90].
Could be wrong, but it's fun trying to figure it all out.
Anyways, have fun. Will check back here end of week.
I got my OLEDs working, but one is defective so having to focus on returning and making other purchases before the week starts.
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Based on the test I just ran, I will respectfully disagree with your assessment.
I ran two songs through it as I pictured it originally:
24/96 track illuminated the left XO LED
44.1 track illuminated the right XO LED
Powered it down, took it apart, swapped XOs
Re-ran my test:
24/96 track now illuminates the right XO LED
44.1 track now illuminates the left XO LED
Frankly I was hoping you were correct - I've got some intermittent, annoying little "tick" that happens every few minutes, no pattern to it, when passing DSD in via DoP. At this point, I'm not sure what's causing it but having the clocks in backwards certainly wouldn't have helped such a situation.
But in any case, it appears that FifoQ3 Ultimate just rolls with however you install the clocks, based on my findings.
@ toddrhodes .
As you said : " My DAC is already set up for the Gustard pinout "
Please tell me which DAC you use ?
Is your DAC set up for the Gustard pinout ?
As you said : " My DAC is already set up for the Gustard pinout "
Please tell me which DAC you use ?
Is your DAC set up for the Gustard pinout ?
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My DAC is a Denafrips Venus II, which has a configurable HDMI i2S input. My other device, a Pi2AES has a Gustard pinout so it was already set up by me to use that input format.
As for plugging and unplugging 5 times - that was my fault, and was not "tweaking." I was having power issues with the DC input on the HDMIPi board - poor soldering on my part - and it took me a few tries to figure out what exactly I did wrong, what it really meant to "break out" the 3.3V regulator board, and so forth.
This is my first attempt at anything of this sort and I plan to just buy another HDMIPi Transmitter board and treat this one I have now as my "lessons learned" board.
We all start somewhere. I'll keep my failure posts to a minimum in the future but in this case, I'd say it stirred up at least some valuable insight.
I wasnt telling you off toddrhodes and there is nothing wrong with being a tweaker in this context 
All good. I did not intend to single you out (thus not quoting or mentioning you by name)
I know there will be many that do indeed plug/unplug a lot more than 5 times as well. I was just mentioning it, since, you know, most high end gear assembly would not call for connecting things over and over again.
SMA connectors are great too, but IMO way too large for high density layout. There are many connectors I would choose before SMA; especially when multiple connections and channels are expected.
All good. I did not intend to single you out (thus not quoting or mentioning you by name) I know there will be many that do indeed plug/unplug a lot more than 5 times as well. I was just mentioning it, since, you know, most high end gear assembly would not call for connecting things over and over again.
SMA connectors are great too, but IMO way too large for high density layout. There are many connectors I would choose before SMA; especially when multiple connections and channels are expected.
Sorry, that last post was out of line - just let some frustration come through after getting rather bad news about a family dog. My apologies.
On the better side of the ledger, I appreciate all the info and help this and other threads here have been. No way I would have found myself even near the point where I am without all this!
On the better side of the ledger, I appreciate all the info and help this and other threads here have been. No way I would have found myself even near the point where I am without all this!