Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter

How is your reclockPi project going I look forward to it. Currently, I am satisfied with this setup.

Wow! Can you tell me why you used a Receiver Pi?

StationPi Project:
  1. RPi4 8GB (4GB RAM buffer)
  2. ReclockPi
  3. TransportPi
  4. Accusilicon now and later Pulsar, NS2 or Andrea Mori Clock

Once I start back on the StationPi project, I should be back in focus.

If you look closely @holco 's StationPi photos, it's close to how I plan to implement once I start up the StationPi project:

Please post your updates on your StationPi project. My goal is to build or buy a media player and use a Gustard X16 DAC via LVDS (I2S).

I am vacillating between a building DIY StationPi project using Ian Canada's parts, or buying a complete kit (see link below), or buying a ready-made media player with DAC such as the Matrix Mini Pro3 (linked below). I posted a layout for my proposed Station Pi project in post #5782 on this thread.

AUDIOPHONICS EVO-SABRE DAC Kit DIY DAC 2xES9038Q2M Fully Balanced & Streamer for Raspberry Pi 4 - Audiophonics

Matrix Audio - Mini-i 3/Mini-i Pro 3

I have never done a DIY computer-based project before and my knowledge about computers and software is negligible. In addition to that, I am an old man and live in India where I do not have any peers to seek advice from. Heck, most of my peers are dead.

Hence I would prefer a kit of some sort or at least a lot of guidance about what hardware parts and software I would need.

What do you guys think about this Dune like media player? It looks too good to be true. I see it has only 2GB of DDR4 RAM (vs 8GB for an RPi4) and I don't think it can play MQA or DSD.
Media player-R11(UHD Audiophile) - EWEAT

The other options from companies like Auralic, Aurender, etc are all outside my budget. Even the ES9038 MUSIC SERVER II from GuangHao (linked below) is a bit too expensive. Besides I am not quite sure of how I can import this and what support it has.
ES9038 Music Server II

Stacks consist of
1. RPi (with latest Volumio image)
2. BridgePi with USB Amanero Combo384 and latest FW (CPLD_1082 & CPU firmware_2006be15r2/6/7) as recommended by Domenico
3. FIFOPi Q3 + TransportPi
4. DAC: Topping D70

The connection are:
RPi > USB Cable > BridgePi (with Amanero Combo384)

Awesome work. My goal is to build a media player using a RPi4 + FiFoPi + TransportPi (on a StationPi board).

Given that the TransportPi offers LVDS I2S/DSD digital output why did you choose the BridgePi + Amanero as well as the TransportPi?

The D70 that I have seen as LVDS (I2S) inputs. Are you using LVDS or USB to connect to the D70?

My current setup is now RPI4 in an alu-box, a 40cm cable to FifoQ2, stacked with Allo Isolator and FiFoQ3 with standard clocks.

The good news is that I await the new
Andrea Mori clocks, which will bring my system to even a higher level.

What are the challenges you guys faced with such a DIY project? I worry about spending money building a Frankenstein that will never work. I started a thread about this here
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-...-player-hi-res-audio-video-3.html#post6476197

The hope is to build a box that looks like one of the boxes from Aurender ( https://aurender.com/n20/ ) with a nice screen. I wish there was a kit project that did this. The Audiophonics EVO-SABRE kit (linked to earlier) is the only one that comes close.

Where would I get a nice screen (say 2" x 5") that would go with an RPi4 + FiFoPi + TransportPi?
 
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In my system the sound is more fullbody and though refined, better micro dynamics, more 3D when compared with a single FifoQ3-RPI4-DDDac1794 or even the double FifoQ2+Q3. I still used the standard clock, because my Accusilicon burned last year.

The good news is that I await the new
Andrea Mori clocks, which will bring my system to even a higher level.

Congrats pz1! The WTMC will put it in a different universe over the test clocks!
The ability to change clocks easily is one of the great features of Ian's FIFO IMHO.
 
@navin :

ReceiverPi receives the digital signals from these 2 devices USB Amanero & Chromecat Audio via HDMI and S / PDIF ports.

Google Chromecast Audio Media Streamer - Black | eBay

CSR8675 Bluetooth 5.0 receiving USB digital interface to AES fiber coaxial HDMI | eBay


G100.jpg



Q30.jpg



https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/dig...mate-weapon-fight-jitter-582.html#post6473048
 
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Joined 2020
Oh heck, that’s too bad.
It’s a shame the leads on the Lundahl aren’t a bit longer.
I suppose one could bodge up an adapter or lengthen the leads a bit. Perhaps a bit later.
Best of luck with your projects!

Ditto. Best of luck in your projects as well... Your post really helped give me confidence that I'm on the right path with these S/PDIF transformers. I will pick up a Newava if there is something I need from DigiKey.

@Ian, no rush. If you have a few minutes, can you take a look at the LL1572 to confirm NO possible way to work with the TransportPi PIN layout?

https://www.lundahltransformers.com/wp-content/uploads/datasheets/1572_1573_1589.pdf

I already given up on the LL1572, but may revisit the upgrade in the Summer when I work on my second FiFoPi/ReclockPi streamer.
 
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Please ignore my posts. I am a noob here and have very niche requirements since I'm building a portable 2TB microSD FiFoPi system. I want to enjoy Ian Canada's products everywhere I go outside the house. It also works well inside the house if I want to listen on the balcony, recliner, bed, upstairs, downstairs, etc.

So my posts maybe confusing to some.

My initial plan was just to build a StationPi system, but after receiving the Goodies I noticed the size is much smaller IRL than in the photos so I forked a portable project.

I'm now building two projects:

Portable Project (Redbook Only):
  1. RPi3 A+ (256MB RAM Buffer)
  2. FiFoPi Q3
  3. TransportPi
  4. "Pulsar" Clock
Outdoor Power
  • 5V into FiFoPi J3 (Single A123 26650)
  • 3.3V into FifoPi J5 (Single A123 26650)
Indoor Power
  • 5V into FiFoPi J3 (Single A123 26650 + UcConditioner 5V SuperCaps)
  • 3.3V into FifoPi J5 (Single A123 26650 + UcConditioner 3.3V SuperCaps)

StationPi Project:
  1. RPi4 8GB (4GB RAM buffer)
  2. ReclockPi
  3. TransportPi
  4. Accusilicon now and later Pulsar, NS2 or Andrea Mori Clock
Power
  • 5V into StationPi J3 (LiFePO4 MKIII SuperCaps)
  • 3.3V into StationPi J5 (LiFePO4 MKIII SuperCaps)
  • 3.3V into FiFoPi J5 (LiFePO4 MKIII SuperCaps)
  • 3.3V into TransportPi J3 (LiFePO4 MKIII SuperCaps)

My mind is so focused on the portable project and not giving any attention to the MKIII/StationPi ATM so it gets confusing on the power requirements, so I might end up confusing others... Once I start back on the StationPi project, I should be back in focus.

If you look closely @holco 's StationPi photos, it's close to how I plan to implement once I start up the StationPi project:
Thanks for taking the time to reply but I am still confused. I am running a station Pi with:
5v into station pi J3
3.3v into station Pi J5
Why do we need the other 2 X3.3v power supplies?
Ian what is the ideal number of power supplies and do I need to connect separate psu's to the fifopiq3 and the transport pi directly If I am already supplying 3,3v to J5?
 
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Joined 2020
Why do we need the other 2 X3.3v power supplies?

No worries. You don't need 2 other 3.3V. I just wanted to optimise and take advantage of the Group Buy, so I decided I might as well add power and SuperCaps to the TransportPi. You only need 1 other 3.3V. Power to the TransportPi is optional as it gets power via GPIO by default.

I believe the other 3.3V (StationPi J5) is needed to power the GPIO of the Audio HAT's. Without the StationPi (Traditional Way), feeding 5V into the FifoPi helped power the GPIO. With the StationPi (Modern Way), something has to help power the GPIO now that the power is separated from the RPi power. The clean power on the FiFoPi J5 3.3V is mainly dedicated to power the clocks? So how do the Audio HAT GPIO's get power... How is the TransportPi going to get power? Not through the clean power FiFoPi J5 3.3V or isolated RPi StationPi J3 5V...

It looks to be a trend with Ian's products migrating more to 3.3V so one can bypass the LDO. Now instead of relying on having to use 5V so the RPi can get power via the FiFoPi 5V, one can just power the FiFoPi -> GPIO -> TransportPi with 3.3V directly via the StationPi J5. Could be completely wrong. Just IMO. Again, anyone please correct if I'm wrong. I'm here to learn and try to do things the proper way to achieve MAX SQ.

I'm new to this hobby and have not unsealed my StationPi yet, so have zero experience in the matter ATM. Ian maybe still recovering from the massive GB, so you may want to check out the discussion here in the meantime:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/dig...mate-weapon-fight-jitter-574.html#post6415640
 
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@navin :
ReceiverPi receives the digital signals from these 2 devices USB Amanero & Chromecat Audio via HDMI and S / PDIF ports.

Thanks. I would like to learn more about this project.

What is the AD1865R you refer to in your earlier picture (post #5812)? Is that the DAC? If it is the DAC what is the device sitting above this DIY project? It looks like a DAC too.

I posted a proposed layout of an RPi4 based media player in my post #5782 but need to understand more before I jump in and order parts for a project that might not work. I know nothing about PCs and Software.
Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter

Any guidance would be appreciated. I am also toying with the idea of buying a ready-made meda streamer/player/server from Cambridge Audio, Dune, etc. Discussion linked below.
RPi "compatible" Media Player for Hi-Res audio as well as video
 
No worries. You don't need 2 other 3.3V. I just wanted to optimise and take advantage of the Group Buy, so I decided I might as well add power and SuperCaps to the TransportPi. You only need 1 other 3.3V. Power to the TransportPi is optional as it gets power via GPIO by default.

I believe the other 3.3V (StationPi J5) is needed to power the GPIO of the Audio HAT's. Without the StationPi (Traditional Way), feeding 5V into the FifoPi helped power the GPIO. With the StationPi (Modern Way), something has to help power the GPIO now that the power is separated from the RPi power. The clean power on the FiFoPi J5 3.3V is mainly dedicated to power the clocks? So how do the Audio HAT GPIO's get power... How is the TransportPi going to get power? Not through the clean power FiFoPi J5 3.3V or isolated RPi StationPi J3 5V...

It looks to be a trend with Ian's products migrating more to 3.3V so one can bypass the LDO. Now instead of relying on having to use 5V so the RPi can get power via the FiFoPi 5V, one can just power the FiFoPi -> GPIO -> TransportPi with 3.3V directly via the StationPi J5. Could be completely wrong. Just IMO. Again, anyone please correct if I'm wrong. I'm here to learn and try to do things the proper way to achieve MAX SQ.

I'm new to this hobby and have not unsealed my StationPi yet, so have zero experience in the matter ATM. Ian maybe still recovering from the massive GB, so you may want to check out the discussion here in the meantime:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/dig...mate-weapon-fight-jitter-574.html#post6415640
Many thanks A123.
 
@navi
Yes, AD1865R received transport Pi signal via coaxial. :)

Sir, I am now very confused.

You have an RPi, FiFoPi, TransportPi, ReceiverPi and AD1865R all in one box.

The ReceiverPi receives a signal from
(1) ChromeCast via HDMI and
(2) from CSR8675 (BT and USB) via CoAx (SPDIF)
and sends this signal via FiFoPi to RPi?

The TransportPi takes the signal from the FiFoPi (via the GPIO)
and sends it via CoAx (SPDIF), BNC, TosLink, or I2S (LVDS) to a DAC

The AD1865R is an R2R DAC and takes a signal via CoAx (SPDIF) and converts to analogue.

Is this signal chain correct?
ChromeCast / CSR8675 >> ReceiverPi >> RPi >> FiFoPi >> TransportPi >> 1865R

I assume the ReceiverPi, RPi, FiFoPi and TransportPi are connected via GPIO.
 
@navi : As you ask

You have an RPi, FiFoPiQ3, TransportPi, ReceiverPi and AD1865R all in one box (YES)

The ReceiverPi receives a signal from :

(1) ChromeCast via CoAx to ReceiverPi (short pin 17 and pin 18 [J4 20pin of ReceiverPi]).

(2) Box (USB Amanero + Bluetooth CSR8675) via HDMI to ReceiverPi (short pin 15 and pin 16 [J4 20pin of ReceiverPi]).

And both send signals for FifoPiQ3 .

The TransportPi takes the signal from the FiFoPiQ3 (via the GPIO)
and sends it via CoAx (SPDIF), BNC, TosLink, or I2S (LVDS) to a DAC (YES)

The AD1865R is an R2R DAC and takes a signal via CoAx (SPDIF) or I2S and converts to analogue (YES)

Is this signal chain correct?
ChromeCast / Box (USB Amanero + Bluetooth CSR8675) >> ReceiverPi >> FiFoPiQ3 >> TransportPi >> 1865R (YES)

I assume the ReceiverPi, RPi, FiFoPiQ3 and TransportPi are connected via GPIO (YES)
 
The ReceiverPi receives a signal from :
(1) ChromeCast via CoAx to ReceiverPi (short pin 17 and pin 18 [J4 20pin of ReceiverPi]).

(2) Box (USB Amanero + Bluetooth CSR8675) via HDMI to ReceiverPi (short pin 15 and pin 16 [J4 20pin of ReceiverPi]).

And both send signals for FifoPiQ3 .

The TransportPi takes the signal from the FiFoPiQ3 (via the GPIO)
and sends it via CoAx (SPDIF), BNC, TosLink, or I2S (LVDS) to a DAC (YES)

The AD1865R is an R2R DAC and takes a signal via CoAx (SPDIF) or I2S and converts to analogue (YES)

Is this signal chain correct?
ChromeCast / Box (USB Amanero + Bluetooth CSR8675) >> ReceiverPi >> FiFoPiQ3 >> TransportPi >> 1865R (YES)

Thanks for your quick response.

If the signal chain does not have the RPi, why do you need the RPi at all?

My idea was to have one box with
  1. USB Hard disk (with FLAC audio and MOV video files) connected to RPi4
  2. RPi4 connected to FiFoPi via StationPi
  3. FiFoPi connected to Transport Pi
  4. TransportPi connected to external DAC like Topping D90 via I2S (LVDS)
Power for all of the above using LinearPi and UcConditioner 3.3V and 5V.

Additionally, I would have
  • CD Player connected to Topping D90 via CoAx (SPDIF)
  • Game Console connected to Topping D90 via TosLink
  • Laptop (if needed) connected to Topping D90 via SUB

DAC would be connected to Stereo Amplifier
RPi4 HDMI out would also be connected to AVR for video streaming from Hard disk or Internet.

I am stuck with 2 parts.
1. I don't know if all the parts will work. I have no knowledge of PCs and Software.
2. How do I get the Raspberry Pi 4 to stream services like Netflix and Tidal? What do I need to install? Plex Server? And how do I install it?

I tried reading some resources like the links below but they went over my head
Question - Advice on building a raspberry pi DAC/streamer | AVForums
How to Install Plex on the Raspberry Pi 4
 
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navin: Why not connecting the Topping D90 directly via USB? Why all the hassles with I2S?

Isn't I2S better for short distances than USB? My DAC will be sitting right next to my media player so the distance of the wire should be less than 12" (30 cm). I don't know if this assumption is right or wrong.

Also if you are using USB how do you incorporate an external clock like the FiFo Clock?
This is what I understood from this video.
ESP32 - Intro to I2S Episode 1, explanation with basic example outputting a square wave - YouTube

The advantage of having the DAC outside is that one can upgrade the media player or the DAC independently.
 
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Topping D90 is using async USB-audio and has its own precise clocks right next to the DAC. (one per samplerate family - Review and Measurements of the Topping D70 DAC | Page 15 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum ). Apparently quite good ones as its measurements suggest.

Oh wow. I did not know this. The link is for the D70 but I assume it is the same for the D90 as well.

Is this also true for other DACs like the SMSL SU9, Gustard X16 and Soncoz SGD1? I have not got the D90 as yet and the X16 with its 9068AS chipset looks mighty interesting. I found this on the same ASR website.
New Gustard Twin Shootout: A18 (AK4499) vs X16 (ES9068AS) | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

AK4499 Shootout: Topping D90 vs Gustard A18 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

Thank you again!
 
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I do not have any special knowledge, these are more or less technical basics. I do not have any of the DACs you mention and cannot thus comment on their quality. But the ASR measurements seem very relevant and credible.

Regarding a specific USB DAC brand - please create a new thread as such discussion would be quite off topic to this thread. Thanks.
 
Thanks for your quick response.

If the signal chain does not have the RPi, why do you need the RPi at all?

Yes . Have it in chain

RPi >> ReceiverPi >> FiFoPiQ3 >> TransportPi >> 1865R

(A).RPi via GPIO to ReceiverPi (open pin 15 and pin 16 [J4 20pin of ReceiverPi]).

(B).Box (USB Amanero + Bluetooth CSR8675) via HDMI to ReceiverPi (short pin 15 and pin 16 [J4 20pin of ReceiverPi]).

(C).ChromeCast via CoAx to ReceiverPi (short pin 17 and pin 18 [J4 20pin of ReceiverPi]).