After reports about StatioPi, I, like others, organized a separate power supply for the "dirty" side of FifoPiQ3 and RPI. This was discussed in the messages 5691-5700.
Tried the connection without the 3 and 5 pins and got incorrect work ("stuttering", "crackle"). After connecting 3 and 5 - normally.
Hardware: RPI4-FifoPiQ3-TransportPi. (Temporarily everything is powered from linear 5V).
Soft: DietPi (I-Sabre Q2M audiocard) + Roon Bridge.
Yesterday I tried again to remove the 3 and 5 pins, the result was surprising!
1. Everything works without errors. (Listened for 3 hours).
2. Much less often I hear a "crack" when switching tracks.
3. I No longer hear or notice the J1 grounding on FifoPi. (Previously, without grounding, connecting the DAC to the BNC output of TransportPi felt a "shiver" on its body).
@iancanada,
I can only assume that this is due to the FifoPi firmware update. Maybe it's better to leave 3 and 5 pins for future updates?
Tried the connection without the 3 and 5 pins and got incorrect work ("stuttering", "crackle"). After connecting 3 and 5 - normally.
Hardware: RPI4-FifoPiQ3-TransportPi. (Temporarily everything is powered from linear 5V).
Soft: DietPi (I-Sabre Q2M audiocard) + Roon Bridge.
Yesterday I tried again to remove the 3 and 5 pins, the result was surprising!
1. Everything works without errors. (Listened for 3 hours).
2. Much less often I hear a "crack" when switching tracks.
3. I No longer hear or notice the J1 grounding on FifoPi. (Previously, without grounding, connecting the DAC to the BNC output of TransportPi felt a "shiver" on its body).
@iancanada,
I can only assume that this is due to the FifoPi firmware update. Maybe it's better to leave 3 and 5 pins for future updates?
Help with powering the Fifo,Transport and USB Bridge Signature with Ian's Lifepo4
I am building a streamer with the Fifo Q3 and Transport to output to my Dac with a USB Bridge Sig instead of a RPI as a base, so I only need 2x 3.3v rails so I still have 2 x 13.5 rails available I put them both in parallel and used a buck DC13.5v to DC 5v instead of linear trying to convert the power as efficiently as possible to avoid wasting precious battery.
The cheap buck Converter had some ripple tested on my oscilloscope but with a big 10,000 uf before and after looked great then into Ian's Mate conditioner with2 ulltracaps the output looks great.
The USB Bridge signature uses 0.8 amps at 5v so each rail of 13.5 is only putting out 0.22amps a very reasonable amount. The system sounds amazing.
My question is am I doing anything wrong or dangerous?
Is there a better way to use the batteries?
was also thinking of splitting the 2 13.5 into 4x 6.6 then lower it with a couple big Diodes to 5v but it was not designed for that
Also perhaps a over Voltage protection for the UC mate conditioner not sure the best way.
I am building a streamer with the Fifo Q3 and Transport to output to my Dac with a USB Bridge Sig instead of a RPI as a base, so I only need 2x 3.3v rails so I still have 2 x 13.5 rails available I put them both in parallel and used a buck DC13.5v to DC 5v instead of linear trying to convert the power as efficiently as possible to avoid wasting precious battery.
The cheap buck Converter had some ripple tested on my oscilloscope but with a big 10,000 uf before and after looked great then into Ian's Mate conditioner with2 ulltracaps the output looks great.
The USB Bridge signature uses 0.8 amps at 5v so each rail of 13.5 is only putting out 0.22amps a very reasonable amount. The system sounds amazing.
My question is am I doing anything wrong or dangerous?
Is there a better way to use the batteries?
was also thinking of splitting the 2 13.5 into 4x 6.6 then lower it with a couple big Diodes to 5v but it was not designed for that
Also perhaps a over Voltage protection for the UC mate conditioner not sure the best way.
Attachments
Video low jitter digital audio transport
I took a YouTube video for how to DIY a low jitter digital audio transport by using
FifoPi + TransportPi or HDMIpi + StationPi + RaspberryPi
Power supply solution can be: LinearPi Dual(5V/3.3V) + UcConditioner (5V and 3.3V)
Ultra Low Jitter Digital Audio Transport DIY, FifoPi Q3, TransportPi, StationPi, LinearPi and more - YouTube
Just hope it helps.
Thanks,
Ian
I took a YouTube video for how to DIY a low jitter digital audio transport by using
FifoPi + TransportPi or HDMIpi + StationPi + RaspberryPi
Power supply solution can be: LinearPi Dual(5V/3.3V) + UcConditioner (5V and 3.3V)
Ultra Low Jitter Digital Audio Transport DIY, FifoPi Q3, TransportPi, StationPi, LinearPi and more - YouTube
Just hope it helps.
Thanks,
Ian
Thanks Ian
Beautiful Video very well done love the panning motion. I am happy to see you making some Videos as this will really help us Visualize a entire system hope to see more in the future..
I was hoping to use the batteries (so many left unused) would feeding the dual Linear PI with with 2x 6.6 be possible I am trying to avoid AC if at all possible. any way to split the 2 13.2V into 4 x 6.6 and feed the dual Linear PI?
Beautiful Video very well done love the panning motion. I am happy to see you making some Videos as this will really help us Visualize a entire system hope to see more in the future..
I was hoping to use the batteries (so many left unused) would feeding the dual Linear PI with with 2x 6.6 be possible I am trying to avoid AC if at all possible. any way to split the 2 13.2V into 4 x 6.6 and feed the dual Linear PI?
@IanCanada
i still don't get if i can supply 3.3 straight to the McFifo power input.
I have no idea how the supply is designed nor if the (eventual) regulator/s are bypass-capable.
If i had to guess, everything works from 3.3v down, nothing over, so if there's some reason to have an "high" voltage, please let me know... otherwise, tell me if a lifepo4 is capable of do that just fine.
Thanks
i still don't get if i can supply 3.3 straight to the McFifo power input.
I have no idea how the supply is designed nor if the (eventual) regulator/s are bypass-capable.
If i had to guess, everything works from 3.3v down, nothing over, so if there's some reason to have an "high" voltage, please let me know... otherwise, tell me if a lifepo4 is capable of do that just fine.
Thanks
Hi ,
You can try to supply 3.3V directly to McFifo. All on-board linear LDOs will be bypassed in this case if the input voltage is low to 3.3V. However I don't suggest doing it this way, because McFifo still get chance to power external devices and I can not guarantee all of them works with 3.3V.
Regards,
Ian
You can try to supply 3.3V directly to McFifo. All on-board linear LDOs will be bypassed in this case if the input voltage is low to 3.3V. However I don't suggest doing it this way, because McFifo still get chance to power external devices and I can not guarantee all of them works with 3.3V.
Regards,
Ian
Beautiful video. Thanks for sharing this.
An idea for you to consider... I'd love to see a video demoing the entire system demonstrating the sound. If I recall, you have an amazing room with B&W speakers and Pass Labs amps driven by your source. While sound on YouTube can never equal the sound in room, there are quite a few YouTube channels dedicated to audio review of systems. They do give an idea of the experience. I can imagine with your photography skills a pretty good demo.
Just a thought to consider
Appreciation Post
Dude Ian,
Seriously? This is some next level alien technology stuff. Loving my FiFoPi Q3 / TransportPi. The sound is so refined. It's like transitioning from a family car to a luxury car. Has that kind of refinement impact pre burn in.
Fortunately, I got it setup as a portable with a single LithiumWerks/A123 26650 LiFePO4. Stock clocks already replaced with the Accusilicon.
I'll work on the MKIII and UltraCaps in a few months. Don't have the energy or tools for that ATM. Look forward to that experience.
Couple Questions?
I'm into complete sound purity with zero RFI (optical, LiFePO4 & Ultracaps) so these type of products fit my needs to a tee. LiFePO4, UltraCaps, low power RPi, OPT OUT, option to go portable or desktop, etc. So thanks again for making them available to laymen. I would not know where I would be in this hobby if I had to settle for less.
Dude Ian,
Seriously? This is some next level alien technology stuff. Loving my FiFoPi Q3 / TransportPi. The sound is so refined. It's like transitioning from a family car to a luxury car. Has that kind of refinement impact pre burn in.
Fortunately, I got it setup as a portable with a single LithiumWerks/A123 26650 LiFePO4. Stock clocks already replaced with the Accusilicon.
I'll work on the MKIII and UltraCaps in a few months. Don't have the energy or tools for that ATM. Look forward to that experience.
Couple Questions?
- Can you slightly cut the stems off the Accusilicon to lower the profile? If I proceed to use it as a portable, everything counts to lower the footprint. The TransportPi will be happier having just a little bit of extra space if I can cut off a bit of the stems.
- Are the Pulsar Clocks just as straightforward as the Accusilicons to roll? Straight up Plug N' Play?
I'm into complete sound purity with zero RFI (optical, LiFePO4 & Ultracaps) so these type of products fit my needs to a tee. LiFePO4, UltraCaps, low power RPi, OPT OUT, option to go portable or desktop, etc. So thanks again for making them available to laymen. I would not know where I would be in this hobby if I had to settle for less.
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@eduard,
After Ian's recommendation about 1 1/2 years ago, I have started using a pair of 3000F Maxwell BCAP 3000 P270 K04 ultracaps in both of my setups as final buffers on my 5V supply to the digital source, either a linear-regulator-modified (no DC-DC converter) RPi 2B (very good), an Allo.com USBBridge Sig like you (even better), or an SDTrans384 SD Card Player (perhaps even better, but no easy way to compare). Like you and Ian, I found they make significant and profound improvements in the SQ.
I went to get more and was saddened that they'd been EOL'd early this year and with all the mess with the pandemic, I missed those notices, so missed the chance to get more before they went out of stock.
I recently found a Chinese source for later version Maxwell 3400F BCAP 3400 P285 K04 ultracaps. They arrived quicker than I expected and look to be genuine units in good condition. I'm wiring them up for use and hope to listen Monday or Tuesday. I'll report back here on how they compare and whether I can suggest that source for those wanting to add a pair or 3.
One of my cautions on trying different units is that in my setups and to my ears, I hear differences between UCs from the different manufacturers that I've tried and between different lines in a manufacturer.
I found the first units I tried, 350F NESSCAP units, to have an emphasis in the upper mids and lower treble that was objectionable over time. Otherwise they sounded similar to the 350F Mawell units.
I found the 350F and 325F Maxwell units to sound a tiny bit light in the mid-bass an bass compared to my other supplies. While I suspect this is due to the UCs objectionably having little transient hangover in these regions. I say this because when the source material contains instruments in these regions, they are well defined, articulate and robust sounding, not thin or recessed at all. BUT when I first tried UC pairs on my player power rails, they changed the frequency balance of my setup such that I spent some time trying things to restore the original. Over time, I got used to it and now find the other supplies bloated and blurred. The newer and lower ESR 325F units were slightly farther from neutral to my ears, but bettered the 350F units in every other way, so I have stuck with them.
I found the 3000F units to sound slightly on the phat side of neutral compared to the 350F/325F units, so using a combination of the 3000F units at 5V on the music source device and the 325F units at 3.3V or 5V (depending) on the player components (like 3.3V for Ian's FiFoPi and ES9038Q2M DAC) to exhibit a very close to neutral frequency balance compared to my earlier supplies.
I use an Allo.com Shanti dual 5V power supply as the float-charging supply for the 3000F units. Though as Ian noted, those 3000F UCs will run many sources for some time, at least 10-15 minutes or more, I generally leave my setups on 24/7 and the Shanti doesn't add much of its own signature when used like this, again to my ears and in my setups.
If you can find them from a trustworthy source, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Using UC pairs as final PS buffers took my Ian GB stack to new levels!
YMMV.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. Picture is of my setup using a modified Allo.com Katana with a 325F UC pair on each of the Katana 5V rails and the 3000F UC pair on the USBBridge Sig. YES, it is messy and not finished, but I never stop trying new setups and changing existing ones, so packaging them is a futile effort for me. Plus no small children or pets to get into them here!
After Ian's recommendation about 1 1/2 years ago, I have started using a pair of 3000F Maxwell BCAP 3000 P270 K04 ultracaps in both of my setups as final buffers on my 5V supply to the digital source, either a linear-regulator-modified (no DC-DC converter) RPi 2B (very good), an Allo.com USBBridge Sig like you (even better), or an SDTrans384 SD Card Player (perhaps even better, but no easy way to compare). Like you and Ian, I found they make significant and profound improvements in the SQ.
I went to get more and was saddened that they'd been EOL'd early this year and with all the mess with the pandemic, I missed those notices, so missed the chance to get more before they went out of stock.
I recently found a Chinese source for later version Maxwell 3400F BCAP 3400 P285 K04 ultracaps. They arrived quicker than I expected and look to be genuine units in good condition. I'm wiring them up for use and hope to listen Monday or Tuesday. I'll report back here on how they compare and whether I can suggest that source for those wanting to add a pair or 3.
One of my cautions on trying different units is that in my setups and to my ears, I hear differences between UCs from the different manufacturers that I've tried and between different lines in a manufacturer.
I found the first units I tried, 350F NESSCAP units, to have an emphasis in the upper mids and lower treble that was objectionable over time. Otherwise they sounded similar to the 350F Mawell units.
I found the 350F and 325F Maxwell units to sound a tiny bit light in the mid-bass an bass compared to my other supplies. While I suspect this is due to the UCs objectionably having little transient hangover in these regions. I say this because when the source material contains instruments in these regions, they are well defined, articulate and robust sounding, not thin or recessed at all. BUT when I first tried UC pairs on my player power rails, they changed the frequency balance of my setup such that I spent some time trying things to restore the original. Over time, I got used to it and now find the other supplies bloated and blurred. The newer and lower ESR 325F units were slightly farther from neutral to my ears, but bettered the 350F units in every other way, so I have stuck with them.
I found the 3000F units to sound slightly on the phat side of neutral compared to the 350F/325F units, so using a combination of the 3000F units at 5V on the music source device and the 325F units at 3.3V or 5V (depending) on the player components (like 3.3V for Ian's FiFoPi and ES9038Q2M DAC) to exhibit a very close to neutral frequency balance compared to my earlier supplies.
I use an Allo.com Shanti dual 5V power supply as the float-charging supply for the 3000F units. Though as Ian noted, those 3000F UCs will run many sources for some time, at least 10-15 minutes or more, I generally leave my setups on 24/7 and the Shanti doesn't add much of its own signature when used like this, again to my ears and in my setups.
If you can find them from a trustworthy source, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Using UC pairs as final PS buffers took my Ian GB stack to new levels!
YMMV.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. Picture is of my setup using a modified Allo.com Katana with a 325F UC pair on each of the Katana 5V rails and the 3000F UC pair on the USBBridge Sig. YES, it is messy and not finished, but I never stop trying new setups and changing existing ones, so packaging them is a futile effort for me. Plus no small children or pets to get into them here!
Attachments
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Thanks Wlowes for your reply on the i2stopcm. Was it a definite step up in SQ from just the FifoPi alone?
Greg...I see you use ldovr regs to charge the 325f pairs? They can handle it? Do they have current limiting? I tried diy p2p UC pairs using the purple ebay lt3042 regs but they get really hot.
Greg...I see you use ldovr regs to charge the 325f pairs? They can handle it? Do they have current limiting? I tried diy p2p UC pairs using the purple ebay lt3042 regs but they get really hot.
Ye it's better, though i will go with The JLSounds async board that can handle the sym mode with the tda1541A as the I2StoPCM has a little error of starting time with the TDA1541A I2S scheme (it was documented in a thread)...and an extra length of cables despite its masterclocked by the FifoPi...
Yes jimk04... simultaneous mode is a clear upgrade (pardon the pun
)As diyiggy points out there are now multiple products providing this conversion. Ryanj also made a pcb according to the design of ecdesigns that some people claim has better sound than ian's board.
Andrea Moiri is also working on a FIFOPi type pcb that will output simultaneous mode directly. I suspect this will be a solution optimized for the 1541a. Personally I am happy with what I am using with Iancanada and will stick with it.
@jimk04,
Good to see you again... sorry, been busy.
I actually don't use the ldovr.com LT3045 reg boards during the charge-up. I have tried them and believe they'd be ok with add-on heatsinks, but I really don't want to risk them.
I use Ian's LT3042 boards during charge-up, then swap in the ldovr.com reg boards after the UCs reach the target voltage.
About a year ago, on a whim, I tried swapping the ldovr.com boards for the LT3042 boards and heard improved sonics. I had heard the same when I went from OPC's 4||LT3042 boards to 3||LT3045 boards sourced from mpaudio.net back when he still sold raw boards. Interestingly, his 6||LT3045 boards beat the 3||LT3045 boards handily and are now my top choice for that type of supply. BUT the UC pair buffered supplies beat all where I can use them!
I float-charge the 3.3V and 5V DAC/interface board UC pairs with Uptone Audio LPS-1.2s during play. An expensive choice, but I did a lot of listening with other supplies I have here. Using the LPS-1.2's set to the next higher voltage as float-charging supplies and ldovr.com LT3045 boards set to the target voltage are so close sonically to the UCs running on their own with no float-charging supply that I question if I am really hearing a difference or imagining things. Of course this is to my ears and in my setups.
None of the other supplies were close, they all added some signature to the sound of the bare UCs. That included LiFePO4 cells too, sadly, as I had high hopes for them. I need to try modifying the mpaudio.net boards I built up with smaller filter caps. I configured them for use as raw supplies and suspect the nearly 20,000uF of electrolytic caps total before/after the 3||LT3045 regulator stages are adding their signature to the overall sound. I will first modify a couple of those boards with smaller tantalum caps like the 22uF ones ldovr.com uses on their boards to see if that makes them a better match as UC pair float-charging supplies.
For a budget solution appropriate for those with 120V AC, I have tried the 5V/1A linear-regulated wall-warts from Jameco and had success using them to charge even a 3000F UC from 0V to 5V. Still, I'd watch them very closely during charge and either use a current-limiting regulator or put a 25R-50R in series to keep the current down.
Those wall-warts make fair float-charging supplies when modified with better rectifier diodes (they only need 2 due to the center-tapped transformer), pre and post regulator caps, a transformer ringing snubber (I used John Swenson's 220R/.022uF in series across the transformer secondary) and an AC-input filter C. Another good feature is they have pretty good raw voltage headroom, you can easily modify them with a different voltage-set resistor for a couple of volts lower or higher than stock. This also goes for the 12V/1A units which are a little better to my ears due to the slightly higher VA transformer.
I can share details if desired, send a PM. IMHO, the hardest parts of modifying them is opening them while preserving the case for reuse and modifying the case for the AC filter cap.
AND though I haven't tried them yet, I suspect Ian's LinearPi for not much more funds will work significantly better as UC float charging supplies than any of the AC-connected supplies I've tried and may challenge the LPS-1.2. I'll report when I get a chance to try them. Others have reported great results with them already.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. When charging / discharging UC pairs, I ALWAYS monitor voltage of each pair using these voltage monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YALV0NG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These have helped me prevent issues and find faults that might have been difficult otherwise. I leave them on until connected to the load, then remove them. That's only because I am an "Everything Matters" kind of guy, I have never heard a difference with these monitors connected or disconnected. BUT in addition to the "Everything Matters" insanity I practice, they are also VERY BRIGHT... and one of my setups is really a bedroom setup!
Good to see you again... sorry, been busy.
I actually don't use the ldovr.com LT3045 reg boards during the charge-up. I have tried them and believe they'd be ok with add-on heatsinks, but I really don't want to risk them.
I use Ian's LT3042 boards during charge-up, then swap in the ldovr.com reg boards after the UCs reach the target voltage.
About a year ago, on a whim, I tried swapping the ldovr.com boards for the LT3042 boards and heard improved sonics. I had heard the same when I went from OPC's 4||LT3042 boards to 3||LT3045 boards sourced from mpaudio.net back when he still sold raw boards. Interestingly, his 6||LT3045 boards beat the 3||LT3045 boards handily and are now my top choice for that type of supply. BUT the UC pair buffered supplies beat all where I can use them!
I float-charge the 3.3V and 5V DAC/interface board UC pairs with Uptone Audio LPS-1.2s during play. An expensive choice, but I did a lot of listening with other supplies I have here. Using the LPS-1.2's set to the next higher voltage as float-charging supplies and ldovr.com LT3045 boards set to the target voltage are so close sonically to the UCs running on their own with no float-charging supply that I question if I am really hearing a difference or imagining things. Of course this is to my ears and in my setups.
None of the other supplies were close, they all added some signature to the sound of the bare UCs. That included LiFePO4 cells too, sadly, as I had high hopes for them. I need to try modifying the mpaudio.net boards I built up with smaller filter caps. I configured them for use as raw supplies and suspect the nearly 20,000uF of electrolytic caps total before/after the 3||LT3045 regulator stages are adding their signature to the overall sound. I will first modify a couple of those boards with smaller tantalum caps like the 22uF ones ldovr.com uses on their boards to see if that makes them a better match as UC pair float-charging supplies.
For a budget solution appropriate for those with 120V AC, I have tried the 5V/1A linear-regulated wall-warts from Jameco and had success using them to charge even a 3000F UC from 0V to 5V. Still, I'd watch them very closely during charge and either use a current-limiting regulator or put a 25R-50R in series to keep the current down.
Those wall-warts make fair float-charging supplies when modified with better rectifier diodes (they only need 2 due to the center-tapped transformer), pre and post regulator caps, a transformer ringing snubber (I used John Swenson's 220R/.022uF in series across the transformer secondary) and an AC-input filter C. Another good feature is they have pretty good raw voltage headroom, you can easily modify them with a different voltage-set resistor for a couple of volts lower or higher than stock. This also goes for the 12V/1A units which are a little better to my ears due to the slightly higher VA transformer.
I can share details if desired, send a PM. IMHO, the hardest parts of modifying them is opening them while preserving the case for reuse and modifying the case for the AC filter cap.
AND though I haven't tried them yet, I suspect Ian's LinearPi for not much more funds will work significantly better as UC float charging supplies than any of the AC-connected supplies I've tried and may challenge the LPS-1.2. I'll report when I get a chance to try them. Others have reported great results with them already.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. When charging / discharging UC pairs, I ALWAYS monitor voltage of each pair using these voltage monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YALV0NG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These have helped me prevent issues and find faults that might have been difficult otherwise. I leave them on until connected to the load, then remove them. That's only because I am an "Everything Matters" kind of guy, I have never heard a difference with these monitors connected or disconnected. BUT in addition to the "Everything Matters" insanity I practice, they are also VERY BRIGHT... and one of my setups is really a bedroom setup!
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Good tips Greg, thanks,
I just bought 10 of these small "DMM" at Aliexpress for 0,75 Euro
They will come in handy for sure...
link to ali express voltmeter
I just bought 10 of these small "DMM" at Aliexpress for 0,75 Euro
They will come in handy for sure...
link to ali express voltmeter
FifoPi and Buffalo III SE connections and DIP settings
Hello everyone,
I am still trying to get a FifoPi and Buffalo III SE implemented.
It would help me (and others I suspect) to have a simple list of connections and DIP settings for both boards. Deciphering this has taken up a lot of time in part due to the lack of convention in I2S labeling. Perhaps a cross-reference for the various I2S labels will help.
I found a partial list and added what was found on the FifiPi, BIII and WaveIO boards. If someone of knowledge could please check and correct any of these that are incorrect or confirm they are correct I would be grateful. The first two in each category are on BIII and FifoPi respectively.
1) D2/“SD/D1”/Data/DS-Data Sync
2) DCK/SCK/FSCLK/frame sync clock/LRCK/Left Right Clock/WS/Word Sync
3) D1/“LR/DO”/CLK/Sample Clock
4) EXT_MCK/MCLK
Cross referencing provides the connections BIII to FifoPi:
For sync mode (have to remove the XOs on the BIII)
EXT_MCK to MCLK
DCK to SCK
D1 to LR/DO
D2 to SD/D1
For async mode (defualt)
DCK to SCK
D1 to LR/DO
D2 to SD/D1
Next comes DIP or Jumper settings for both boards.
S1 on the FifoPi should both be ON.
I have not found the correct DIP settings for Asynch connection for the BIII and would be grateful for some help with this. In one of Ian’s posts I found the following for sync mode.
Sync mode for BIII is:
SW1 (X os off, 0 is on)
X000000X
SW2 (X os off, 0 is on)
X000X000
Any assistance greatly appreciated.
Hello everyone,
I am still trying to get a FifoPi and Buffalo III SE implemented.
It would help me (and others I suspect) to have a simple list of connections and DIP settings for both boards. Deciphering this has taken up a lot of time in part due to the lack of convention in I2S labeling. Perhaps a cross-reference for the various I2S labels will help.
I found a partial list and added what was found on the FifiPi, BIII and WaveIO boards. If someone of knowledge could please check and correct any of these that are incorrect or confirm they are correct I would be grateful. The first two in each category are on BIII and FifoPi respectively.
1) D2/“SD/D1”/Data/DS-Data Sync
2) DCK/SCK/FSCLK/frame sync clock/LRCK/Left Right Clock/WS/Word Sync
3) D1/“LR/DO”/CLK/Sample Clock
4) EXT_MCK/MCLK
Cross referencing provides the connections BIII to FifoPi:
For sync mode (have to remove the XOs on the BIII)
EXT_MCK to MCLK
DCK to SCK
D1 to LR/DO
D2 to SD/D1
For async mode (defualt)
DCK to SCK
D1 to LR/DO
D2 to SD/D1
Next comes DIP or Jumper settings for both boards.
S1 on the FifoPi should both be ON.
I have not found the correct DIP settings for Asynch connection for the BIII and would be grateful for some help with this. In one of Ian’s posts I found the following for sync mode.
Sync mode for BIII is:
SW1 (X os off, 0 is on)
X000000X
SW2 (X os off, 0 is on)
X000X000
Any assistance greatly appreciated.