Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter

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Hi Greg Stewart,

I didn't, but thank you for this hint, I will test it as soon as I have enough parts for a DMFO (DigikeyMouserFarnell Order):) : do you mean it's the reference Iancanada soldered at the bottom of the FiFoPi (the standalone cap at the bottom that looks like a Panasonic PPS or an acrylic CDE) ?

Despite the PPS & the CDE measure quiet the same, I have a preference for the CDE as I'm able to hear a difference at equal inductance (just a mess to solder : the lowest heat and the faster soldering the better)... which is funny as it's not what we learn at school, probably THD, PSRR, measurements are not enugh??? Or CDE/PPS distors ? I doubt.

Yes you should try for instance the oldest smd adaptor board with the CCHD-957 and this CDE cap on the 0807 area (let the other areas unpopulated and the second adaptator unpopulated as well) : try first with only one smd board, not both.... You may like what you hear... A little tricky to solder but worths it. Notice the difference by doing the same experiment with a X7R...:rolleyes: . ... then decoupled with a 0.1uF C0G. The new CCHD-957 adaptor has too little decoupling areas for this and perhaps also too long traces between the xtal and those decoupling pads VS the oldest adaptator board imho. Green on black can be pretty too:).

Anyway, I will be happy to hear from you about the subjective difference you hear between a ceramic and these platic caps at clock decoupling... First gives a thin sound with light the second gives flesh and articulation with a mat sound or at least dark background and a better decay perception. My bet is the plastic smd caps has a better high frequency behavior than ceramic class II... and ceramic class I as well! Or then ceramic damps too fast? I really don't know but I really think the difference in the ceramic and plastic dielectric can be heard too : ceramic class I, PPS, acrylic CDE gives all a different sounding at equal values. Difficult to know which is the best but I assume it's about on how the rest of your hifi/room is sounding as a whole result and picking the good one in the list to tailor what is heard. In my system CDE/PPS/C0G are best in this order.

Thanks Greg Stewart for sharing and hope I'm not too false with my hint. If it worls it works for Clock II/MS clock & FiFoPi (the FifoPi needn't perhaps because this particular cap already soldered)

regards
 
Really excited to build a new DAC setup with Ian's nice products! Going to attempt a HQPlayer-RPi build (DSD512), hoping to get some guidance on my first try.


Going to build a full RPi- FIFOPi- Dual Mono 9038 Hat- LL1544a I/V with LiFePO4 supply first. Then hope to add in a DSC2 v2.5.2 from @ppy @Vit123 as another option for DAC, also trafo (LL1684) I/V.



Does anyone know if I can hook up dual mono DAC hat via GPIO to FIFOPi, and still use the u.fl, and mute and gnd vias on the FIFOPi board to supply another DAC?


If I can manage to get any of that working, I might give DSD1024 a try. Wish me luck!


Any input on the above would be hugely appreciated! Thanks!
Sorry, I don't mean to be a bother but I was hoping for some input on the above question. Perhaps I should have given less background.


"Does anyone know if I can hook up dual mono DAC hat via GPIO to FIFOPi, and still use the u.fl, and mute and gnd vias on the FIFOPi board to supply another DAC?"


Thanks for any help!
 
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<SNIP>
Greg where you able to make your Dial DAC (PCM179x) work with set of 22/24 MHz clocks?
<SNIP>

@miklau

I do now have a 22/24 Kali here, but have not gotten around to trying it on the Dial DAC in sync mode.

IF you get into a bind, especially if my offer below doesn't work out, I can slot that in with my other current projects, but it may take a few days to a week or so.

Ian do you know if the low-cost generic clocks you have used on the FiFoPi is available at Mouser, or maybe know the brand name? I was thinking of buying a pair 22/24 just to see if it works with my PCM1794 COD DAC before spending the extra on a set of CCHD-557.

Thanks again:)

I will check, I still have the provided clocks from the first 2 original FIFO I purchased from Ian. If they are 22/24, they are yours for shipping.

I'll let you know

Greg in Mississippi
 
From a picture it looks like (I don’t know real or for sure) the auralic Aries G2 (4k$ Streaming device) has a CS8406 from Cirrus.
Why not start with that one?

But please, if you realise that the raspberry with FiFoPi and Ian’s McSpdif is better than the above named, don’t ask for 4k$!

To be a little more serious, I think the DIT4192 would be it.


And one more thing.
I still have a pair of 22/24 cchd-957 clocks on those Rhea boards from TPA. Can I just plug an play? They fit well In dimensions.
 
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@diyiggy,

Thanks for your thoughts on use of SMD film caps with clock power. You are preaching to the choir here, I am a big proponent of using these caps for both clock bypasses and on analog circuit like active I/V stages and DAC chips' AVCC power.

On thing I need to clear up, I believe the film cap Ian uses on his FiFoPi and can be optionally used on his IVStd are Panasonic units, based on some comments from him earlier. I have used both the Panasonic and Rubycon units on a number of builds and believe Allo uses the Rubycons in both their Katana and Boss 1.2. BUT I've not done any comparisons between the three types, Panasonic, CDE, and Rubycon. There are other manfacturers too, I haven't tried to identify all of them.

It's getting late tonight, more at another time.

Greg in Mississippi
 
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@wlowes,

Nope, I can't point you to one. BUT I can pull a couple of clock adapters and shoot a picture for you.

I will be experimenting with various SMD film caps here in the future. BUT this is what I have now.

Greg in Mississippi

P.S. Bonus shot of a pair of Crysteks on Ian's new adapters on a FiFoPi with Kapton tape on the top to prevent them from shorting out. There is not a lot of space between the top of those clocks and the bottom of the DAC boards... and with the ES9028 prototype board I have from Ian, there were touching before I snipped off some lead ends.
 

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Walter,

The trick I use with soldering the NDK's is to use a means of magnifying them (I use my cellphone's camera and magnify it as much as possible) and identify the pin 1 registration dot. Then I use a fine-tipped permanent magic marker (Sharpie brand here in the US) to mark that corner. The dot rubs off quickly with handling and using rubbing alcohol to de-flux the solder joints almost always removes it entirely... that is why you don't see it in the picture.

Greg in Mississippi

P.S. Bonus picture here shows how I use the pieces of circuit board material that you snip off Ian's new adapters as spacers when soldering the connection pins. They are about the thickest spacers you can use and still get the Cryteks to fit under the DAC board above. I'll post some pix later on how I shorten the connection pins when using Ian's original adapters with Crysteks so they will fit on the FiFoPi with sufficient headroom for the DAC board.

Of course, Walter, none of these bonus pix are of interest for your application!
 

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Thanks Greg. I actually do the same trick with the dot. I use a 30x jeweler's loupe to read the etching. Great minds think alike.

Your pic is most useful, as I solder one of these things once every few years, and would have been sweating over proper orientation.

I don't plan to use the Crystek but the pic will help someone. I find the NDK SDA similar in spec and much better price performance.

I would like to get my hands on one of andrea_mori's clocks however. I look forward to tasting different clocks over time.
 
D

Deleted member 537459

Hi all!
Fifopi complete is arrive!!
The result is amazing sound thanks Ian.
I have some question, i use dietpi with roon bridge, in spund card option i install ess9028k2m and work but in option of roon i can choose 64bit and is limt to dsd 128. The sistem when go to 352khz no work, sound come but i have many noise.
What sound card option you install on dietpi? Thanks for all answer.
 
Can someone give a guide how to calculate the XO clocks required for the fifoPi board? I read the threads and people talked about MCLK value 128*Fs, 22/24 MHz, 44/48 MHz clocks etc etc. But I can't understand anything and its relationship with the Fs that dac can run.

Thank you.

I would suggest you going with 45/49 MHz to fit most of the cases.

Ian