DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

my board finally arrived today. on close inspection i can't see any shorts on the legs of AK4396, although i'm sure i read somewhere that a couple of the legs should be intentionally shorted. all of my connections look clean per leg. Is this right?

also, i remember seeing some wimas on the under side of the board. was this dario's final board or someone elses (if you're around to answer dario)
 
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my board finally arrived today. on close inspection i can't see any shorts on the legs of AK4396, although i'm sure i read somewhere that a couple of the legs should be intentionally shorted. all of my connections look clean per leg. Is this right?

Don't worry. The pads are already shorted on copper layer, some boards have also pins shorted but it's a question of cleaning...IMHO.

also, i remember seeing some wimas on the under side of the board. was this dario's final board or someone elses (if you're around to answer dario)

I'm still here... :rolleyes:

It was a pic of one of my builds.

Mounting some caps underboard allow more space on the upper side but it's not required if you manage to fit all on one side.
 
@Dario,
I have built the DAC like in your BOM, but Mouser has not the Nichicon LF 100uF/16V (C28, C30) on stock. I get this in February 2013!
On stock I have Nichicon BP and FW ( 100uF). The other way is to buy via E-Bay Sanyo OSCON 68uF/20V or 180 uF/20Vbut here are again shiping cost.
What shout I do? For the mean time buit one of the stock (Which BP or FW?) or buy of the Oscons? It is only the C30, because i go with the I2S Interface of one DSP direct to the AK4396 (behind the CS...).

Next to the C28 is a second electrolytic capacity (1uF) without Number. What shoul I put on this place i have Nichicon 10 uF it is o.k.?
 
Thanks erin for your help with local parts distributer, just a question reguarding using a higher value cap, is it ok to use 3300uf for caps C23, C24 and C25 would this increase output voltage and cause damage to board?

Using a higher value will not cause any harm regarding voltage because there are regulators after the filter capacitors. If you check my fifth post. I use 22,000uf in this location.

What larger capacitance will do is reduce the ripple. As long as the part fits, I would highly recommend going for larger capacitance in this location.
 
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I have built the DAC like in your BOM, but Mouser has not the Nichicon LF 100uF/16V (C28, C30) on stock. I get this in February 2013!

They're a more tight fit but you can order the 270uF ones (647-PLF1C271MDO1)

Or you can try Nichicon FP-CAPs (647-RS61C101MDS1JT), an italian forumer recommended them as the best digital caps ever but never managed to try them...

Otherwise order from ebay Sanyo SEPC

Next to the C28 is a second electrolytic capacity (1uF) without Number. What shoul I put on this place i have Nichicon 10 uF it is o.k.?

Whatever 1uF elco.

That cap has no influence on sound.
 
Does anyone know what value the fuse is, as the supplied fuse has zero markings. Also would using a PCT device bring any audio improvement.

I don't know if this is appropriate for a DAC but on the old WAD site, Richard the mod experimented with using a much larger value fuse in the WAD tube power amps - from 1.6A to 5A. This mod was recommended but only when the amp was checked and found to be totally stable. A lot of WADders tried this and all had a positive re-action, AFAIK no one went back to using the smaller value fuse -comments please.
 
I presume he means PTC ie resettable 'fuse'

but I agree increasing the fuse in the device to 5A is in effect the same as removing the fuse, its nolonger useful for protecting the lives of you and your family. if discovered it could also render your insurance void
 
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OK, A PTC resistor will behave like a variable resistor. When the current through the PTC increases, the resistance of the PTC will increase. This will form a voltage divider in your circuit. The load will still be drawing current (and dissipating power), and the PTC will dissipating power. This sounds like a recipe for disaster. A fire could easily start using a PTC instead of a fuse.

Not a good idea.
 
Well erin,
the guys on WAD have been using these uprated fuses for over 11 years now without any problem at all, in theory you are correct but this theory simply does'nt hold up in practice and the thicker wire does mean a better sound. These guys are'nt idiots and would'nt risk their equipment or their lives - 11 years of no problems is pretty conclusive evidence that this mod is not dangerous. I should add that two of the members who use this mod work in the power generation industry. It was also these two that told me that even though I plan to use alt. energy stored in batteries I could still expect to have some noise on the power lines - now that was a real surprise to me but they were emphatic.

Does'nt your dis block have over-voltage protection devices fitted, I used to have these on all my equipment.There does seem to be an 'inertia element' to some of the comments as to so much in the audio world. Just how many surge controls do you need. If a surge happens it's taken care of in the dis. block ergo no power distributed to the various equipment plugged into it - or am I missing something. Also with all the consumer units I have seen and lived with they trip very quickly. We have quite few thunderstorms where I live and if one happens within a few kilometers, the power companies small trip box will trip and I have to climb over a stile and trudge through sheep crap to reset it on the wall of the sheep pen.

Why does the UK persist with having fused mains plugs - not needed at all - on the mainland Shukos have no fuses - and no fires.

The variable resistors are used by some on another forum - I just mentioned them for comments.

Actually mini trips have been used for ages by many but again the 'inertia effect' has a stranglehold on many.

Aka this DAC - how many will fit this DAC into a flat rectangular box with scant if any venting to aid heat dissipation and we know from many comments that certain components generate a lot of heat. In the 1950s' and 60s' lots of papers were written on the effect on components of excessive heat - loss of operating parameters and decimating the life of components - drop the operating temperature by 10C and double the life of the component.

Thanks to my Dutch mate Harry, I have used active cooling in both my head and power hybrid amps for some years now, so why do so many insist on using totally inferior passive cooling, which is also very expensive - the inertia effect, or - we've always done it this way.

I intend to use the chassis provided by Along but on it's side with a simple brace to keep it upright with slots cut top and bottom where the PCB is, which will create a simple and effective conduction current. As I shall fit some of the components on the underside of the board I will use longer spacers so that conducted cooler air will shift heat on both sides of the board - simple and effective.

Just compare the mentality of those who work in computer design and those who work in audio - the only box you find in the computers world is the box they sell the computer in. I know of one small manufacturer in the audio business in the UK and he is actively working on using a liquid cooling system developed for computers but how many others are there like him?
 
haha, there is nothing theoretical about it, no problems is just good luck, they HAVE bypassed their safety and they HAVE rendered their insurance null and void. that is fact, not theory

PTCs are used for protecting equipment as a secondary measure, they are not a substitute for an actual fuse. if the fuse does not come into play before conditions that can cause explosive over-current, or fire, you may as well just short them.

what is a theory, is the act of oversizing a fuse larger than the max normal operating current of the equipment ever sees is something that improves sound
 
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op amp

Hi
By reading the many pages of this forum, I have bought this dac. I have tried it without change except op amp and I was already convinced of the quality of the sound. I tried several different op amp and to my surprise, it's a MC1458 that gave me the best results at listening. The different op amp I tested: OPA2134 - OPA2604 - LM4562 - TL072 - TL082 - lf383 -ne5532
What are the op amp are you using?
Thanks