DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

It's simply because they're different products... my BOM is for the AK4396 MINI2496.

I understand but the function of the caps around the dac chip look similar, just that there is no filter cap on the 3.3V supply which is the one you increased to 100uF and changed to a solid type.

So would it be reasonable to assume the caps have a similar performance impact and that the Cerrafines for the 4 positions on the 4398 might be a good choice (3*10uF & 1*100uF), none of them bypassed as per the recommendations for the 4396?

I also ask because although your BOM is very well respected, ERIN seemed to favour solid caps throughout, and I guess many increased in capacitance value. So with me ordering a few 100uF LF caps and having a few spare thought these might be an equally viable alternative.
 
If I use Shottkies to build bridges are these the right values - 2A/1000V?

Hi Stuart,

anything above 50V is good, we're dealing with less than 25V...

I like a lot soft recovery ones, like SBYV27

I see that the Fischer heatsink is for using with the + reg. but none for the - regs, does that mean that the - regs generate no significant heat?

I would reverse... it's the positive one that needs additional dissipation since it supply also the DAC and not only the opamp.

I understand but the function of the caps around the dac chip look similar
(...)
So would it be reasonable to assume the caps have a similar performance impact and that the Cerrafines for the 4 positions on the 4398 might be a good choice (3*10uF & 1*100uF), none of them bypassed as per the recommendations for the 4396?

My BOM can be used as an 'inspiration' for your DAC, part selection (caps, resistors, opamps, regulators) still apply, but for parts around the DAC chip you should do youself a selection (use sockets like I did), I've selected every single part by listening tests, I can't assure the same apply for CS4398.
 
Hi Dario,
If I use Shottkies to build bridges are these the right values - 2A/1000V? I have postioned all the components on the board (without soldering) and I see that I shall have to hotglue the 3 x PS caps to the chassis, only then can I build the Shottkie bridges.
Stuart

I hope you don't mind me suggesting 11DQ10 schottky diodes.

I have listened to many schottky diodes, and they all basically sound the same. As long as they have enough current and voltage to work in your circuit they will all work.

Personally I have also tried soft recovery diodes and find them to not sound as good as any schottky.
 
Is the value of the inductors critical - I ask because I can get values under or over 1.50uH from Distrelec - I don't want to have to order just a couple of components from another supplier and pay plenty in postage costs.

How are kit builders dealing with the LEDS since Along does'nt supply any kind of fixing for these.
 
Whilst trawling for prices on op-amps I saw something interesting on Tamaudio - op-amps biased into class A - any comments? They (Tam) rec. 3.9K for the resistors - I can't see where the 1st leg of the 2nd resistor is soldered, any ideas?

Also saw the prices for op-amps on the Cimarron/Brown Dog site - $8 a pop for OPA827 and $3 for the adaptor, those are not bad prices and one would hope that they are genuine.

Stuart
 
Can anyone please list out the top 10 mods which really make a difference or a critical for correct function.

LPF parts and values, Nichicon LF, On Semi regulators.

Also saw the prices for op-amps on the Cimarron/Brown Dog site - $8 a pop for OPA827 and $3 for the adaptor, those are not bad prices and one would hope that they are genuine.

OPA827 are 12$ a pop from Cimarron website.... BTW it's still a good price. ;)
 
Erin,
thanks for the link, unfortunately most comments were from theory not from practice. I was hoping someone would comment on the ccs route as per Audiologica. I wish I could read schematics as I would definately bias the op-amp in version 2 of this DAC I'm going to build. I have to admit that this mod interests me for my phono stage, which has op-amps.

Stuart
 
Hi,
I have a +- 15V regulated PS using LM317/337 combo. How about if I place it before the 12V regulators. Do you think that might be a idea? Also have a 7812 reg. which I can place before the 9V regulator on the board?
Also as i understand the most important changes may the onboard regulators, the Low pass Filter changes. Apart from this capacitor changes are listed but not sure which ones will be the best value. Any suggestions
Regards
Vinod
 
Hi,
I have a +- 15V regulated PS using LM317/337 combo. How about if I place it before the 12V regulators. Do you think that might be a idea? Also have a 7812 reg. which I can place before the 9V regulator on the board?
Also as i understand the most important changes may the onboard regulators, the Low pass Filter changes. Apart from this capacitor changes are listed but not sure which ones will be the best value. Any suggestions
Regards
Vinod

I'm not very technical and I'm just learning things along the way here, but have you considered just changing the resistors on the 317/337 board to get +/- 12v out? and omitting the 7812/7912 altogether?
 
Hey Vinod, I really don't want to sound like a jerk or pry too deeply:eek:, but can you explain why you are taking this approach and not just doing the complete upgrade BOM? Dario would not have included anything that is not significant for the full enhancement of the DAC. So much is interactive and I fear you may be limiting your results by being so selective. If cost/budget is an issue, as it is with most of us, it would be nice to think that you plan to do the complete mod eventually.

Please, Not intended to offend.
 
No offense

Hey Vinod, I really don't want to sound like a jerk or pry too deeply:eek:, but can you explain why you are taking this approach and not just doing the complete upgrade BOM? Dario would not have included anything that is not significant for the full enhancement of the DAC. So much is interactive and I fear you may be limiting your results by being so selective. If cost/budget is an issue, as it is with most of us, it would be nice to think that you plan to do the complete mod eventually.

Please, Not intended to offend.

Hi,

I can do the entire mod. Its just that I have limited time. So the idea was to 'pick the low lying fruit'. Will keep your suggestion in mind. Also finding it a strain to read all the 200+ pages of comments!!
Regards
Vinod