DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

Thanks, Thought there might be someone running "Blue Light Specials":) and was U.S. based. I guess we just have to choose between "get it now" and "get it cheap";)
Bob - I'm sure these same disconnects are available from suppliers in the states. I just haven't looked hard enough. I'm sure Mouser, or Newark have an equivalent, but the soft, silicone/soft plastic sleeve are really nice and make handling them easier. I've got a good stock of them now though. :D I recently bought some right-angle disconnects to try, but short of using a vise I can't figure out a good way to crimp them. A normal crimper won't work! Oh well.
 
DOH!! Posting pics like that on here makes for newbies thinking this practice is OK!!

1. I do not claim that this is state of an art model.
2. I fully agree that leaving 2 bare terminals of mains cap and socket is dangerous, though I've seen it in some factory audio/ video components as well and moreover, it's ok for me in this dac where nobody except me will take off the top cover.

Not sure how you manged to use Darios BOM either cos its a different PCB!!

well at least I'm sure :) indeed it's a different pcb, different chip (AK4398) + chip for usb has been added, nevertheless it is still 80% the same schematics. Pls see attached pdfs.

I take it the idiot has naffed off to show his work off to some other thread or forum even.
240 AC volts needs to be treated with the utmost of respect, It will kill you before you even don't want to know it.

with all respect to the forum and to you, don't make a panic out of nothing and leave your offensive comments with you!
 

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  • AK4393 dac kit.pdf
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  • 4398 SC.zip
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This probably should be in the techniques thread - but I've pretty much given up on the pre-insulated connectors. The most economical method with U.S. parts has been a combination of the following.

Quick Disconnects here

Heat shrink Tube here
....available in colors or all black.

Larger size long enough to overlap small tube.
IC1.jpg

I've just had too many crimped wires come apart so I solder everything.
IC2.jpg

Custom results with the ability to disassemble if needed.
IC3.jpg

The only other good value packages I've found for pre-insulated pieces are here but their shipping charges up the cost. Radio Shack "Ship to store" saves a few bucks.
 
I always solder to the disconnect too, just to make sure there's a solid connection. I've thought of using heat shrink tubing on them, but have never tried. HS tubing adds a degree of security to the connection as well, and looks professional. Gives it a nice 'tight' appearance. Yeah - I'm afraid we've wandered a bit OT. :D
 
hi, i'm about to start this project starting with smd soldered pcb order from fleabay.

it's nice to see couple familiar faces from myref threads. the quest for the ultimate sound must be a narrow road ;)

quick question tho- I plan on battery powering this thing through the regulator holes- would it shorten the battery life considerably if i were to go passive trafo output?
 
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Yes you can,check schematics for car use
and connect the others directly
...just remeber to play with those LM 7819 ,lm7812 + lm7912
first does'NT need a center tap and second does
But the Lm317 ,117 can accept higher voltages than 9 and 12 so heck them out
remeber that there is +gnd and +gnd- ,sometimes they get along toghether
like +gnd from the +gnd-
 

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  • 12vdc to 24ac.pdf
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The main issue with that design is that it is pretty inefficient. The design is simple and works well, but the current with no load is rather high.

For example, I built one with a Triad F-140-XP (12.6V at .178 rating)and the current with no load was 360mA. Output was 96Vac with 12.6VDC in.

Note that the output voltage is below the expected 120VAC, because you will need over 18Vdc to get 115Vac out of the transformer as the DC supply has to exceed (for losses) the peak value of the expected RMS output voltage.

Transistors need heat sinks.
 
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it seems that (from skimming through the thread for the past two days) many who went passive output from the dac chip report some sort of high freq harshness. doesn't the 4396 not need a lpf because the distortion is moved up into subsonic range, or does this still affect the audible freq? if so, passive mod+lpf= not possible? i was in the understanding that the transformer output would naturally roll off the highs
 
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In order to meet the manufacturers specification for s/n and distortion, it is necessary to utilize an LPF on the output. If I read the data sheet correctly, the difference is nearly -20dB.

I also saw a considerable upswing in floor noise from 20KHz up to 48KHz on the FFT, which after reading the referenced article looks like it is from the DAC noise shaper. It may be possible to change this if the DAC were changed from HW mode to SW mode by controlling it withe a PIC or Arduino.
 
hi bob, im planning it to use it in conjunction with myref and a ribbon tweeter 3 way as my main setup. considering the associating components now im thinking i may hav to go for active buffer with lpf, because that 40khz rise will be present in the final output.

i'm wanting to use battery because it should sound better :)
 
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Got It - I've just seen so many varying approaches to powering and modifying the power for this unit that I am trying to determine which way to go if I decide to make further modifications. The upgrade BOM was a big improvement and any further refinements would truly be beyond my expectations. There have been several posts dealing with battery power but not a lot of follow-up. Maybe those builders can also add some information here.

Please let us know how the Ever-Ready Bunny performs his tasks.:D
 
What about 5 small batteries? One for the 9 V stage, and 2 x 2 per each 15V part (you can try 12V only then you need 2 batteries, but I am not sure it will work well with the op-amp).

So take two batteries, put them in series, and supply this to the + 15V part. Do the same for the -15 V part.

Make a switch, that when you turn off the power (main switch), the switch automatically switches on a charger and disconnects the DAC board (so some relays are needed). That way the battery is always charged when you need it.