Hi,
could you please describe the name of the 4 pins on the AK4396 board. I´m trying unsuccesful to connect j.kenny´s hiface to the board. The MCLK (pin 3 of the AK4396) doesn´t seem to be connected...
thanx
could you please describe the name of the 4 pins on the AK4396 board. I´m trying unsuccesful to connect j.kenny´s hiface to the board. The MCLK (pin 3 of the AK4396) doesn´t seem to be connected...
thanx
Last edited:
Hi,
The four resistor pads are, from top to bottom, LRCK, BCK, DATA, SCK, see attached pic.
Attachments
I've just built my kit and it worked first time - don't laugh, for me that's good going. All the voltages check out OK but I have noticed that the 7812 runs hotter than the 7912 (45C vs 35C). Is this because the +12V from the 7812 side is also used to drive the two LM1117s? I have a spare 0-9V transformer tap that I could use to drive the LM1117s as a separate supply (a duplicate of the other existing 0-9 supply set up) and just use the 12-0-12 supply for the output opamp. It looks easy enough to break into the PCB track at that point, would that be a good thing to do?
Sorry if this has been discussed before but I'm arriving a little late to the party and trying to catch up...
Sorry if this has been discussed before but I'm arriving a little late to the party and trying to catch up...
I run 12-0-12 and for me its the 9v upgraded MC7809CTG regulator that goes hot.
Now i just try swapping OPA´s to hear differences.
Very small differences but they are there.
But the this DAC has more of all compare to my Super Pro Dac, also an cheap but pretty good DAC.
Its pretty easy to get a good sound but when you want more its very small objetive things to play around with.
Thats fun!
I've just built my kit and it worked first time - don't laugh, for me that's good going. All the voltages check out OK but I have noticed that the 7812 runs hotter than the 7912 (45C vs 35C). Is this because the +12V from the 7812 side is also used to drive the two LM1117s? I have a spare 0-9V transformer tap that I could use to drive the LM1117s as a separate supply (a duplicate of the other existing 0-9 supply set up) and just use the 12-0-12 supply for the output opamp. It looks easy enough to break into the PCB track at that point, would that be a good thing to do?
Sorry if this has been discussed before but I'm arriving a little late to the party and trying to catch up...
Exactly what Dario mentions.
Please buy a heat sink.
You can get it at RS or Farnell.
part numbers:
RS: 189-9097
Farnell: 652469
I have already added heatsinks to all three regulators, it is the 7812 that runs hotter than I would like. I'll try splitting off the +Ve supply to the LM1117s from another source and see how that works out.
I can't see that Farnell part number.
The other thing that is getting hot is the THS4032CD opamp I am using. I could only get it in a surface mount package and had to mount it on a DIP8 socket. Not sure what the best thing is to keep it cool.
You do not need on all three regulators. Only on one is enough.
The fact that the op-amp is getting hot, does not mean it is bad.
Try to measure the temperature, and see, if it falls in the working temperature specification of the manufacturer. What we (humans) consider "hot", maybe not hot at all for some components.
The THS4032CD (and all sm chips for that matter) rely on thermal conduction through the IC leads into the PWB to help dissipate power.
Since it is on a DIP8 socket and has wires replacing the pads, they probably do not conduct heat as well.
Put a heat sink on it. Seriously, tacpac a small piece of copper foil (or even heavy duty Aluminum foil) bent in an L shape to act as a heat sink. The opamp will stay cooler.
Since it is on a DIP8 socket and has wires replacing the pads, they probably do not conduct heat as well.
Put a heat sink on it. Seriously, tacpac a small piece of copper foil (or even heavy duty Aluminum foil) bent in an L shape to act as a heat sink. The opamp will stay cooler.
Agreed, the regulators at 35C and 45C and the op-amp at 50C are well within spec. But my experience of electronics is that higher temps lead to shorter working life.
I'd much rather spend a few pence on extra heat sink capacity than have something break and require time and have to spend pounds to fix in the future.
hi Dario,
could I have piece of your advice once more please?
Regarding your shunt, if I replace both regs (U9 and U6), do I need to keep C21 and C34 caps?
Also if I replace only U9 (as I've done now), should it be connected directly to U6, thus omiting C14 & C38?
I've used 8.2V zenner with LM317 and got exactly 8.2vdc, so no need to add 0.6v calculating output voltage, am I right?
If you mounted an elco in C3, probably not but it could sound better with them.
You should try.
BTW why do you want to replace CS8416 analog PS?
C38 can be omitted but why would you omit also C14? IMHO it's needed to decouple the opamp, particularly with an external regulator.
Did you replaced also U10, right?
No, there's something wrong, maybe you burned the BD139.
Can you post a schema of what you did?
My simple shunt has two sections: a current regulator (LM317 + current setting resistor) and zener+resistor+transistor as the real shunt.