Kouiky,
It's doing fine,I am currently deep in the output stage of my dcx,replaced all the outputs with THAT 1512 and used a lm317,337 PS to run them ,man what a change in sound I had in a test setup,I am going to try 1512 in a dac output and see how that sounds,Tap right off the opamp pins,some reviews say that 1512 sounds as good or better than a transformer but I will leave that up to the listener ,lol.
Happy listening,
NS
It's doing fine,I am currently deep in the output stage of my dcx,replaced all the outputs with THAT 1512 and used a lm317,337 PS to run them ,man what a change in sound I had in a test setup,I am going to try 1512 in a dac output and see how that sounds,Tap right off the opamp pins,some reviews say that 1512 sounds as good or better than a transformer but I will leave that up to the listener ,lol.
Happy listening,
NS
Hello,
Im a newbee to building dacs, so sorry if its a stupid question.
I've soldered my dac and i am going to connect my r core transformer. It's the one recommended by the ebay seller i brought the dac from, but the voltage is higher than specified. The 15V rail is 18.3V and the 9V rail is 10.8V. Is this something to worry about or is everything allright?
Im a newbee to building dacs, so sorry if its a stupid question.
I've soldered my dac and i am going to connect my r core transformer. It's the one recommended by the ebay seller i brought the dac from, but the voltage is higher than specified. The 15V rail is 18.3V and the 9V rail is 10.8V. Is this something to worry about or is everything allright?
Look at the schematic, if there are capacitors between the trafo and the regulators then yes there will be an increase in voltage. The voltage after the regulators is more important
Here you go:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello SaftLasso,
I built the same combination earlier this year, and saw the same thing.
Electronically, this poses no problem, but to my taste the 7812 runs too hot if you don't put a small heatsink on it. There's not much room around this 7812, so reshaping a heatsink may be necessary. Be careful not to short the metal flange of the 7812 to that of the nearby 7912, because the latter is not at ground but -Vin !
Furthermore, this is a fine transformer, as is the whole combination.
Your photograph of the yellow/brown wiring reminded me of something else too:
see tip in http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a-278.html#post4349774.
I agree... even in 44.1kHz NOS it beats, well-tweaked, expensive DAC's and CD players.
Last weekend I replaced the ak4396 with 4395 (I Have a spare PCB) chip and sounds absolutely amazing, so I am going to make a 2 in one dac case. I just noticed how much difference there is between recordings. If you want great sounding dac you shouldn't look any further than these dacs.
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HI Peterma
i agree with you but i never listen AK4395
Did you replace the aAK4396 on the Ljm audio blue board ?
did you make some change on the board?
thank's by advance
A
I did the same thing, you have to change the caps and resistors in the LPF section to the correct values in the ak4395 data sheet.
I built mine with Dario's Bom and 6 salas shunt
post a picture
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I built mine with Dario's Bom and 6 salas shunt
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
post a picture
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
image hosting above 5 mb
Hi! SaftLasso and I recently builton of these DACs (with the 4396 chip) each, but mine has a problem. It works completely fine at up to 48kHz (or 44.1, I'm not sure), but at anythin higher than that the "error" LED starts flashing like nothing else and all you can hear is a really loud sparkling sound. Also, though the audio works at 48kHz, the "audio" LED doesn't light up. When I put the DAC to more than 48kHz it starts flashing at the same rate as the "error" LED. What could it be and how can I fix this problem?
Regards
Hugo
Regards
Hugo
Did wire the S/PDIF input with care ? I mean: did you pay attention to keep the connection wires close to 75 Ohms ? This includes cabling from the player to an RCA connector (I suppose) and also from this RCA connector to the contacts on the DAC board. At higher data rates, the importance of this increases. So use coax, and with 75 Ohm impedance whenever possible.
A note too: you may have misunderstood the "audio LED" - it should not turn on when audio is OK, because in fact this LED means "No Audio".