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Old 8th January 2011, 01:21 AM   #1
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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Default Lampizator question

I am thinking of building a lampizator in my kenwood CD player.
Link to the lampizator site - Lampizator page index
Now he uses a 220 to 110v transformer to get the right voltage.

Being in the US, my standard voltage is 117. Could I skip the 110V trafo and use the line voltage and just put zener diodes etc like he has.
Thanks.
Srinath.
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Old 8th January 2011, 01:31 AM   #2
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srinath View Post
I am thinking of building a lampizator in my kenwood CD player.
Link to the lampizator site - Lampizator page index
Now he uses a 220 to 110v transformer to get the right voltage.

Being in the US, my standard voltage is 117. Could I skip the 110V trafo and use the line voltage and just put zener diodes etc like he has.
Thanks.
Srinath.
NO! This would be exceedingly dangerous. You need a transformer for isolation from the AC line. Should the line be reversed for any reason or neutral goes open the chassis will be energized with possibly the full line voltage. Small inexpensive isolation transformers are readily obtainable on eBay and elsewhere. Further you will need filament power anyway.
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Old 8th January 2011, 01:56 AM   #3
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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Default Oh OK

Oh, ok.
The filament needs a decent current ? Not for heating element, see I have the 6.3v around, its the 110 I dont have.

Would a fuse or a zener diode work to isolate the thing ? I am just ignorant of the electronics behind much of this. Thanks for your help.
Thanks.
Srinath.
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Old 8th January 2011, 02:25 AM   #4
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You want to build a tube device and have no experience in electronics... I would say that you have zero chance to have it working properly.
Try to replace the OpAmps on the players output, maybe the capacitors - something closer to your expertise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
Should the line be reversed for any reason or neutral goes open the chassis will be energized with possibly the full line voltage.
Well, in US we have the polarized plugs so the eventuality that neutral and hot get reversed "accidentally" is zero. Also, if he uses the ground to connect the chassis, the most it can do by reversing the hot and neutral is a short circuit. And even if it doesn't ground the chasis, that would be already grounded in his device. And last... it's just 120V, not like in EU 240V.

Last edited by SoNic_real_one; 8th January 2011 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 8th January 2011, 03:56 AM   #5
SY is offline SY  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoNic_real_one View Post

Well, in US we have the polarized plugs so the eventuality that neutral and hot get reversed "accidentally" is zero. Also, if he uses the ground to connect the chassis, the most it can do by reversing the hot and neutral is a short circuit. And even if it doesn't ground the chasis, that would be already grounded in his device. And last... it's just 120V, not like in EU 240V.


:attn: You're making several assumptions, all of which are deadly dangerous. There is NO SAFE WAY to do a direct connection to the mains, and it endangers not only the fool who tries it, but innocent people who happen to unknowingly touch the wrong thing at the wrong time. That's why we have a rule at diyAudio that direct mains connections are the only technical topic which may not be discussed.
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Old 8th January 2011, 04:48 AM   #6
DQ828 is offline DQ828  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoNic_real_one View Post
You want to build a tube device and have no experience in electronics... I would say that you have zero chance to have it working properly.
Try to replace the OpAmps on the players output, maybe the capacitors - something closer to your expertise.


Well, in US we have the polarized plugs so the eventuality that neutral and hot get reversed "accidentally" is zero. Also, if he uses the ground to connect the chassis, the most it can do by reversing the hot and neutral is a short circuit. And even if it doesn't ground the chasis, that would be already grounded in his device. And last... it's just 120V, not like in EU 240V.
I built one as a complete beginner & it worked except I could not get rid of the hum, although you couldn't hear it when playing I knew it was there which annoyed me enough to rebuild it three times to try & remove the noise. finally on the third rebuild I killed the PCB somehow.

Also because I have sensitive speakers & the tube picks up every little thing I did end up with the odd noise in the music. hile it was working it sounded great.

David
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Old 8th January 2011, 06:37 AM   #7
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Inline GFCI Cord Set - Portable GFCI - Ground Fault Protection - Electrical : Grainger Industrial Supply
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I don't want to get into the "deadly" aspect of the 120V/60Hz - just agree to disagree.
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Old 8th January 2011, 03:22 PM   #8
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoNic_real_one View Post


Well, in US we have the polarized plugs so the eventuality that neutral and hot get reversed "accidentally" is zero. Also, if he uses the ground to connect the chassis, the most it can do by reversing the hot and neutral is a short circuit. And even if it doesn't ground the chasis, that would be already grounded in his device. And last... it's just 120V, not like in EU 240V.
I respectfully disagree on all three counts; Most cheap cd players have class 2 insulation and two wire line cords, I've encountered outlets with open neutrals in my own house, and I have also encountered outlets with hot and neutral swapped in various situations. Accidents can and do happen, ask any electrical inspector. Any of these combinations under the right conditions could be lethal.

This guy is a newbie and doesn't understand the need for a power transformer - until he does he shouldn't be messing around with anything mains operated IMHO.

I'm not scared of 120V mains either, but I do know largely what I am doing...
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Last edited by kevinkr; 8th January 2011 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 9th January 2011, 11:50 PM   #9
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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K I may have over pornounced my ignorance.

I have about a dozen amps, cd players and other general electronica fixed by basic trouble shooting and some very tricky replacements of components. I've done some serious amps by means of looking into schematics and troubleshooting.
I also have built a few chip amps out of kits etc.
So having said that ...
I am pretty sure I'd get it done without really screwing up. The question was if the trafo is needed. My skill is pretty much where I can get it done ... if it works.

The inline GFI line is fine, I also have the cd player on a GFI strip, and it has a polarized plug.
Its a kenwood cd player, but its also weighs 35 lb has a 7 cd capacity, and it has a tda 1541 dac. It was made and bought new in 1992/3. I also have a sony that has 1 cd capacity and weighs 40lb. Also with the tda 1541 dac. I wanna do the tube-i-zator in it cos its better for music. The DVD player is getting a fet mod. Its better for voices.
Cool.
Srinath.
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Old 9th January 2011, 11:53 PM   #10
SY is offline SY  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srinath View Post
The question was if the trafo is needed.
YES.
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