BUILD THREAD - A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac - Page 12 - diyAudio
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Old 5th January 2011, 02:27 PM   #111
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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I still have no idea of whether its up to the task, without the relevant info nobody can, the IV dissipation of 2 channels is over 40W without the regs, what was the power of the amp?
at this stage you have more info than we do and you can just use some other circuit that puts out a known amount of heat/power and measure the temp of the sink to see if it will cope with the D1

I will not be sending the sink until the fets are ready, unless you want to pay 2 lots of shipping. (or am I confused, I thought you were getting matched fets too?) I was told they would be doing everything to get them done last week before new years, but I guess they didnt get them done, because I got news today that they will be ready this friday, as in tomorrow (its 1.30am thursday here)

Last edited by qusp; 5th January 2011 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 5th January 2011, 03:38 PM   #112
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The power of the amp was 65W.

I only ordered & paid the heatsink, I never ordered & paid for the fets, could you send me the heatsink? please let me know?
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Old 7th January 2011, 07:24 AM   #113
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So, I started assembling the board. I started with the caps that are a bit bigger than the rest. I am not sure I am getting the desired results. How do I know if I have a cold soldering ? I mostly have problem when I have to solder components that are connected to the ground plane. Do you put the soldering iron on the component or on the board to melt the tin ?

Thanks,

Davide
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Old 7th January 2011, 10:48 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikon1975 View Post
So, I started assembling the board. I started with the caps that are a bit bigger than the rest. I am not sure I am getting the desired results. How do I know if I have a cold soldering ? I mostly have problem when I have to solder components that are connected to the ground plane. Do you put the soldering iron on the component or on the board to melt the tin ?

Thanks,

Davide
Wow... usually you should start with the "lowest" components first...
As for component leads to the ground plane, make sure you raise the solder iron temp higher and heat the ground plane surrounding first (and longer).
The result should be a "smooth surface" shinning solder point that indicate is not a cold soldering point... you can google solder tips and found a lot video to help you.
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Old 7th January 2011, 12:22 PM   #115
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yes, Davide, stop with the large caps you should start with the smallest SMD parts first and work your way up. I normally solder the ground side of all the components first with high heat and high mass tip and then change tips to a lower mass tip. do not heat the lead, heat the pad and junction of the lead and flow the solder onto the pad.

Iloveswan, you are correct that in most cases a shiny smooth joint is an indication of a good joint, but if the lead is moved while part way through it can cause an invisible fracture and also lead free solder does not produce a shiny joint no matter how well done it is.

Merlin, OK I wasnt looking at your records when I posted and had wondered if you hadnt ordered fets as you had soldered some there. I dont have them yet, I will send them the first chance I get after I receive them, hopefully this coming week. they are not being sent to me express, as its a large package and would cost heaps to do that. even sending registered mail is pricey for something this size and weight. all the same if they are sent on monday I should get them before the end of the week. they should have been ready today, anyway enough talk of these heatsinks in the build thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp
because I got news today that they will be ready this friday, as in tomorrow (its 1.30am thursday here)
Merlin, please have some patience and read my posts, it is starting to frustrate me I have been forthcoming with information about the progress in my posts at every point, if they were only finished today, how could I have them already and send to you? they are in Australia, but are thousands of km away.

Last edited by qusp; 7th January 2011 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 7th January 2011, 12:40 PM   #116
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also as both myself and opc said earlier in the thread, you can tin the pad first (ground side) and then heat the pad and slide the part into position, then do the other side, then reflow the ground side. but I will do all of one side and then all of the other. only apply solder to one pad first though, not both; otherwise the part wont sit flat
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Old 7th January 2011, 01:37 PM   #117
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Thanks, I am only dealing with smd parts now. Caps are relatively bigger :-)

D.
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Old 8th January 2011, 04:45 PM   #118
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then my post above you is my advice, I had thought you were possibly meaning only relatively large, but wasnt sure how did you go anyway?
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Old 10th January 2011, 11:30 PM   #119
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So I am going on slowly. The solder do not look beautiful, but should be functional. The practical problem I have is that the components got stick to the soldering iron, so I have always to hold it. But if I am holding the component with one hand, and the soldering iron with the other I do not know how to add tin or flux.
Additionally, there is not muck space to put the soldering iron on the board when the component is in place. This makes difficult to me to put heat on the board.
Moreover I realized that I do not have the firmest hand in the world :-)

Sorry if this sound silly, but sometimes in this hobby is easier to overcome theoretical problem, that practical one.

Best Regards,

Davide
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Old 11th January 2011, 12:44 AM   #120
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the instruction I gave should solve your problems, you do indeed always hold in place with tweezers for the first joint, thus tinning the ground pad first with nothing there, then add some flux to the pad and I will sometimes add some to the component (I use paste) flow that tin and slide the component into place and hold there till solder cools, then solder the other side (you do not need to use the tweezers for this side so have 2 hands) yes some of the pads are only just big enough, but they are big enough, so if the pad is fluxed a decent amount of heat will form a good joint
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