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Build Thread - A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac
Build Thread - A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac
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Old 15th December 2010, 10:09 PM   #51
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horio View Post
Hey qusp,

Regarding the heat-sink option with tapped holes from Conrad, is this one large sink with the PCB mounted to the face of it (similar to how opc mounted his board early on for testing)?
yes thats correct, but also with tapped mounting holes at the corners that match the mounting holes on the IV board, so the board and dac assembly is very securely mounted and can be mounted the right way up, or upside-down with brackets or stand-offs. this means that testing is simple and accessible on the bench and then easily moved into a final case. I didnt want to be doing it twice like Owen did. so each device has its own tapped mounting hole, accessed through the holes in the board as well as 4 extra mounting holes at the periphery for mounting to the chassis.

also makes it much easier for people like me who are testing and using several different IV stages, the IV board is not tied to the case so to speak as it has its own sinking arrangements.

Last edited by qusp; 15th December 2010 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 16th December 2010, 09:04 AM   #52
merlin el mago is offline merlin el mago
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Originally Posted by qusp View Post
this question has been asked several times mate, we recommend leaving them
Sorry possible answered but did not remember, so your advice is not connect nothing, right?
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Old 16th December 2010, 09:05 AM   #53
merlin el mago is offline merlin el mago
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Originally Posted by qusp View Post
yes thats correct, but also with tapped mounting holes at the corners that match the mounting holes on the IV board, so the board and dac assembly is very securely mounted and can be mounted the right way up, or upside-down with brackets or stand-offs. this means that testing is simple and accessible on the bench and then easily moved into a final case. I didnt want to be doing it twice like Owen did. so each device has its own tapped mounting hole, accessed through the holes in the board as well as 4 extra mounting holes at the periphery for mounting to the chassis.

also makes it much easier for people like me who are testing and using several different IV stages, the IV board is not tied to the case so to speak as it has its own sinking arrangements.
Could I ask one heatsink for me or it's too later?
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Old 16th December 2010, 11:14 AM   #54
opc is offline opc  Canada
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Build Thread - A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac
Hi Guys,

qusp is correct on those capacitors:

Do not populate C32, C33, C38, C39, C40, C41, C46, C47

They form a low pass filter that I don't feel is necessary. Simulations to calculate the proper values are in the other thread if you really feel the need to use them.

As for the picture, I'll post one this evening when I get home from work.

Regards,
Owen
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Old 16th December 2010, 12:18 PM   #55
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin el mago View Post
Could I ask one heatsink for me or it's too later?
sure mate, not too late, just in time though. shipping wont be cheap as it weighs just under 1kg. shoot me an email at qusp (splat) optusnet (spot) com (trot) au and we'll go from there, you may also be able to send a mail through the forum (not PM) I cant remember if I have that enabled. with you the price goes down again too, its starting to get quite good value, IMO it was already worth it, but now its getting very decent

I like to mix it up a bit as I think the bots are onto this trick

no problem on the caps Q, didnt mean to sound terse, no need to appologize, i'm a grumpy grumpy man and yeah this Q must have been asked and answered at least 10 times already so I guess I was short.
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Old 16th December 2010, 11:15 PM   #56
Nikon1975 is offline Nikon1975  Austria
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So, I'd like to lift my soldering iron on the board today, but this is my first SMD assembly, I hope I will not screw everything up. I have a bunch of dumb question:

1) I understand that all the SMD caps are not polarized, is it correct ?

2) How do I know the polarity of the diodes ? I can measure the part, but I do not know how it should go on the board.

As procedure to solder the component, I plan to do the following:

1) put a drop of flux on the board.
2) place the component.
3) swipe one contact with the soldering iron with a bit of solder on top.
4) Check the position.
5) solder the other half.

Is it correct ? Any smart tip ?

Thanks,

Davide
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Old 16th December 2010, 11:54 PM   #57
opc is offline opc  Canada
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Build Thread - A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac
Hi Davide,

To answer your questions:

1. None of the SMD caps on this board are polarized, so direction doesn't matter. This is not true for all SMD caps though, as some solid polymer caps are indeed polarized SMD.

2. All diodes have a bar on one side, usually a solid line on the top of the package. Unfortunately, it's very hard to see on these diodes, but it's there. You need to look closely under the right light, and you'll see it. Just place them so the bar on the diode is on the same side as the bar indicated on the board.

For soldering, there are several different ways to go, but here's what I do:

1. Before even taking the parts out of the strip, tin one pad on the PCB for each part to be populated. Always tin the pad with the largest thermal mass. For example, if one side of a component is a trace, and the other is a ground plane, always start on the ground plane side.

2. Once you have one PCB pad tinned (with a little bit of solder) grab the part with some tweezers and hold it in position over the tinned pad. Put a little bit of downward pressure on the part.

3. Touch the tinned pad with the iron and press the part firmly onto the pad. Be sure to heat both the pad and the part.

4. Hold the part in place until the solder solidifies, then repeat this for all parts of one type while being careful to observe polarity if required (for diodes usually)

5. Once each part is soldered on one side, flip the board around and solder the other side of each part.

6. At this point I usually go back and touch up each of the first solder joints and add enough solder to make a nice clean joint. I also put a little bit of side pressure with the iron which helps to detect cold solder joints on the second side. If you got sloppy with any of the second joints, the part will come right off the board when you go back to touch up the first joint.

7. Once all the SMD parts are done, I usually use 99% rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush to clean the flux off the board. I then wash it with soap and water, and dry it well with compressed air. This will leave you with a nice clean board and shiny flux-free joints.

I find this works best for me, but like most things, there are many different ways to do it. Keep in mind that the parts are very small and heat up quickly. Don't overdo it with heat!

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Owen
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Old 17th December 2010, 01:52 AM   #58
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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haha our technique is 100% identical, right down to the toothbrush and alcohol, I use cardas noclean flux though, so its a totally cosmetic thing to get rid of the gungy residue.

I must say though, these 1210 patterns seem to me like you are very used to designing for reflow or wave, as there is very little space on either side of the part. still perfectly doable, but you really gotta make sure the part is centered
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Old 17th December 2010, 04:41 AM   #59
Nikon1975 is offline Nikon1975  Austria
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Thanks,

What temperature do you set on the iron ?

D.
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Old 17th December 2010, 02:49 PM   #60
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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I tend to work fast and a bit hotter than some, I use 2 settings and 2 different soldering iron tips for these boards. for the ground plane side I use a high mass, but pointy conical tip at about 370-80 degrees C for the ground plane, but a small difference in my technique is after tinning the ground pads, I reflow each pad with a well tinned soldering tip and slide the part into position while doing this, hold for a split second with heat, then remove the iron and hold the part there till it cools. then when all the ground pads are done I change to the standard conical pointy tip and turn down to about 330-340 to flow the other side; then retouch the ground side and continue as owen. I also apply a small dab of cardas organic flux to the 'leads' of each part and pads before placement
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