I'm quite interested in the series of similar DACs such as the ones sold by Gigawork. I've waded through the monster thread but as someone said, it's a bit of a mess to get through. I will have to re-read it a few times, I expect, which is a daunting task itself.
I'm somewhat suspicious of the USB link's performance with the Gigawork boards that include it. Getting digital audio data from one device to the other has always been a problem so that's hardly a surprise, I guess.
Since I need USB (or more accurately I can choose between USB and Toslink S/PDIF) I want to try the Musical Fidelity V-Link and then run from there via Coax S/PDIF to a DIY DAC.
Which particular DIY DAC would everyone suggest I try? Do I need to choose one of the USB-enabled versions for reasons other than USB or is there a simpler version that would work that doesn't have the USB input?
I'm somewhat suspicious of the USB link's performance with the Gigawork boards that include it. Getting digital audio data from one device to the other has always been a problem so that's hardly a surprise, I guess.
Since I need USB (or more accurately I can choose between USB and Toslink S/PDIF) I want to try the Musical Fidelity V-Link and then run from there via Coax S/PDIF to a DIY DAC.
Which particular DIY DAC would everyone suggest I try? Do I need to choose one of the USB-enabled versions for reasons other than USB or is there a simpler version that would work that doesn't have the USB input?
The Big Dac Board with upsampling is the one most people like. At one time you could purchase it without USB but I haven't seen it on Ebay in quite a while. I noticed the price has gone up again.
Someone posted a link for purchasing the Dacs at a reputable site that could save you some coin. If I run across it again I'll post it.
If you come up with a stand alone USB receiver with an I2S output you can hardwire it right to the board, and eliminate all of the transmission conversions. That's the best there is.
Someone posted a link for purchasing the Dacs at a reputable site that could save you some coin. If I run across it again I'll post it.
If you come up with a stand alone USB receiver with an I2S output you can hardwire it right to the board, and eliminate all of the transmission conversions. That's the best there is.
I see that unit mentioned at HiFi DIY Shop @ $95 w/shipping versus the Gigawork eBay unit @ $120 + 30 shipping = $150. However the eBay unit includes a Chinese R-core transformer, while the DIY shop wants $43 for a similar transformer (free shipping) that isn't part of the $95 offer (total $138).
So in the end they're similarly priced, although $12 is still $12.
Although it's still early (the Musical Fidelity USB interface [the V-link] isn't really available yet, most places are saying later this month [FE2011]) I did see one review showing extremely low jitter @ the S/PDIF out with that unit.
Attachments
Last edited:
Well, maybe they have. When I checked, there was no current auction listed (I had a saved auction listing from a few days earlier to refer to), so perhaps a change is in the works.
Also, the different transformers from each vendor may actually be, well, different, which could potentially swing the deal towards the DIY site, even at similar pricing.
I appreciate the heads-up in either case.
I've been poking around the I2S thing; there's some interesting stuff to investigate there. So far, apparently, the I2S seems a great way to move data from a source that can't be slaved to the DAC. I'll definitely have to look at it further.
Last edited:
They are one and the same, and supplied by a 3rd party.
I2S is the native format used by almost all manufacturers. The reclocking on the upsampling board eliminates the need for a separate I2S master clock line. If you don't use the upsampling you have to supply the clock from your source also.
I2S is the native format used by almost all manufacturers. The reclocking on the upsampling board eliminates the need for a separate I2S master clock line. If you don't use the upsampling you have to supply the clock from your source also.
Last edited:
It seems gigawork doesn't sell the big dac anymore...I was just going to buy one
DAC CS8416+CS4398 + CS8421 up-sampling, 24 bit/192 KHz on eBay (end time 15-Mar-11 02:56:34 GMT)
New 24/192 DAC DA CONVERTER CS8416+CS8421+CS4398 USB on eBay (end time 23-Feb-11 14:16:13 GMT)
2010 UP-SAMPLING 24bit/192Hz DAC DA CONVERTER W/USB KIT 24bit/192Hz DAC DA CONVERTER @ USB Kit [217] - US$95.00 : Hifi Diy--Amplifier,dac kits,hifi audio products and parts online shop, shipping to worldwide
It seems gigawork doesn't sell the big dac anymore...I was just going to buy one
He's not selling the kits any more, that's true. Only the 'Lars Audio' completed BigDACs.
Sizeable upcharge for the finished unit, but unless you already have a suitable transformer and case (and enjoy casework) it might make some sense.
Right now I have a 4 wire bundle about 8" long connecting the units, I used the 8416 socket to plug the resistors and wires into the dac board so I didn't have to do any hacking. It's surely not the best way but it's just temporary.
I'm never going back to SPDIF to play CDs.
I would like to do what you are doing, get rid of the SPDIF, would
you mind posting a pictures or block skematic of how to do this.
apparently I2S is the holy grail on digital audio connections. Thanks,
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.