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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philadelphia
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Hello everyone. As I am sure many of you have done. I also have been reading tons and tons of posts on building a DIY DAC. However, I have been frustrated with the shear number and differing opinions among the DIY audio community.
This thread is my own selfish attempt to help "weed" through the growing forest of DAC threads. To hopefully, "see the forest from the trees". I.e. the big picture. What really matters most. Most "bang for your buck" so to speak. It is my hope that I will come up with a list of clear and somewhat agreed upon techniques for making a successful (both sonically and measured) DIY DAC design. I do not want to make a thread which is 1000 posts long. I simply want to compile a list of "Design guidelines" for achieving an excellent quality DAC for a modest price. $200-$300 without enclosure. Originally this started as a personal email to ThorstenL, as I have read many of his posts and I respect his opinions and experience. He recommended that I start a thread; and so, HERE IT IS. Let's hope this thing doesn't explode out of control. I think it will cover such topics as follows: 1) DAC chip selection: is there a single chip which gives the best chance of great sonics? regardless of implementation? 2) Power supplies: are shunt regulators needed for great sound?, are they worth the extra complexity? 3) Is an ASRC good or bad? are you better off without it? In what conditions is it good? When is it bad? 4) Decoupling caps: do we really need to use film to get great sound? Whats wrong with ceramic? 5) How important is implementation (artwork) compared to parts selection? 6) etc. etc. To kick it off, here is my original email to ThorstenL (his reply in italic) and his answers to some of the questions, hopefully this will help some others on the forum as I am hoping it will help me. In the end, I hope to have some concrete design descisions made and I will offer up my results to the DIY community. So all you experts, lets get it on! Keep in mind, I want this to be short and concise. A simple design guideline for a great DAC. Not a long debate. Design Goals: 1) natural and transparent sound, but not overly transparent (I like a bit > of softness/warmth). My current amplifier is a Passlabs Aleph 2 clone, which > I absolutely love although my experience with other high-end gear is very > limited. I just like it to be very musical and non-fatiguing. > 2) something a "cut above" the mainstream products that I can afford (which > is not much). > 3) SPDIF input with balanced and single ended analog outputs. > 4) transport insensitive (in other words, my CD player is not great). It > needs to sound good regardless of the transport. > 5) All components easily obtainable (mouser, digikey, etc.) Have you looked at Nelson's whole DAC? It delivers all that and well. Might even be possible to get one 2nd hand at sensible money and restore/tune it. > Here's what I was planning: > 1) WM8804 SPDIF receiver If you want to use 176.4KHz you need to control it via MCU. In that case 8805 allows multiple inputs, might as well use that. Correctly implemented it is currently the best "low jitter" receiver. > 2) SRC4192 ASRC chip (to "clean-up" jitter) I'd just leave it out. Not worth bothering. > 3) PCM1794 with Pass Labs D1 I/V stage (IRF610 as common gate stage) I'd use BJT's (or diamond transistors like OPA861) for the I/V in common base instead, but I doubt I'd use PCM1794. Differential PCM1704 is worth doing if you want to be able to play higher resolution/sample rate recordings. > 4) Pass labs Aleph P preamp stage and resistor ladder attenuator for volume > conrtol Why not combine I/V and Volume control? You could use the I/V resistor for coarse attenuation and fine attenuation after that. > 5) regular three terminal regulators for each supply rail Nothing is better than it's powersupply. The common 3-Pin regulators as sole PSU are not very good. > Is the ASRC chip really that bad of a sonic degradation? In my experience? In most cases yes. In some cases (CD's) it does improve the sound. On anything better than CD it is really bad. > Is the PCM1704 worth the money? (I originally wanted to use this, but the > cost was a bit scary without knowing if I would like the result). IMHO, yes. > Can you give me an example circuit for how to implement a secondary PLL > instead of the ASRC for jitter removal? Do you just need to keep the PLL > loop bandwidth low? If so, how low? Nelson's DAC had a secondary PLL, with the 8804/05 you can probably do without. > How big of a difference does a shunt regulator make on the sound? i.e. are > they worth the extra circuit complexity. Where are they most important? Powersupplies are a huge topic. There is no single "silver bullet" regulator. Important is to select the circuit in the powersupply so it is optimal for a given application, including decoupling and bypass capacitors, ferrite beads/inductors where useful etc. et al. > Can I decouple the DAC supplies as recommended (cermaic caps), or do I need > to use Film caps as many poeple say on the forum. I am very skeptical that > the decoupling cap on the supply of the DAC can be audible. They are quite audible, I'd not worry too much about the ceramic caps, keep the for very high frequency noise. Use suitable "good sounding" caps on the analogue supplies of a DAC and any reference pins. I like Elna Silmic best. And yes, this stuff is quite audible. > Are AC coupling capacitors as bad as some people say? I would guess not, > since most tube gear and Pass Labs stuff has them. They are as bad as "they" say. What "they" often omit is to note that "coupling" capacitors are not always in series with the signal. They may sit in power supplies, in servo circuits and so on. This is one area where well implemented shunt regulators can help, they can replace the "coupling" capacitors between ground and supply. Equally, sometimes a simple high quality coupling capacitor is less damaging sonically than all the stuff that is needed to avoid it, sometimes it's not. > So basically, I am asking if you have a simple recipe for success for a DIY > DAC. If you can live with 16/44 get something using TDA1541A, no oversampling or filtering, 8804/8805 receiver, I2S attenuators and DEM reclocking as per ECdesigns Schematics. I'd use a Tube stage with that (I designed one that can be used), but I would also consider using a pair of OPA861 per channel as common base diamond transistor I/V and Buffer. You can also use the OPA861 as powersupply regulator to give the TDA1541 (or other chips) +/-5V, using it for the -15V needs a little more effort. If 16/44 is not enough, things get more interesting. Keep the receiver, use a suitable logic to split the signal for 2 (or 4 pcs balanced) of PCM1704, suitable analogue stage (tubes or other non nfb) and supplies. Sorry for the long post, they will be shorter from now on.
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audio4life |
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#2 | ||||||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philadelphia
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Here are my replies to ThorstenL,
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2) SRC4192 ASRC chip (to "clean-up" jitter) Quote:
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audio4life |
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#3 | |||||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Hi,
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640K is all the memory anyone will ever need... ;-) I find I now need 176.4 & 192 KHz. Quote:
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On CD (and only CD) I find the TDA1541 still delivers a realistic and analogue sound that is not matched by any more recent design. Ciao T |
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diyAudio Member
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Use ceramics where absolutely needed and nowhere else. Any analog need for decoupling, that be the reciever, or the DAC itself as well as your analog stage, is to be done with the very best film caps, which are without any doubt PPS caps. Quote:
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Precission in sound reproduction will reveal the character of the instruments in a both smooth and natural way, because real instruments are actually very smooth and beautyfull to listen to Quote:
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But it is not easy to design a DC servo circuit, that is completely transparent. But one of the rules of thumb is a very low cut of frequency, and use 1. order only. But if you choose 1 point servoŽs you might have a chance of implementing 2. order servoŽs without the usual problems. [/QUOTE]
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Just do it Last edited by Kurt von Kubik; 1st March 2010 at 05:15 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philadelphia
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Excellent advice. thanks guys! Let me digest this some and I'll post my response and any more questions I may have later.
I think a simple list of basic guidelines is not too far away.
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audio4life |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philadelphia
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Ok just to summarize what I have so far:
1) PCM1704 is a great sounding DAC. Worth the cost over the newer and cheaper DACs from BB, ADI, CS, Wolfson, AKM, etc.. However, it may be possible to achieve great sound with almost any of the new high end chips. If you only want 16/44 the TDA1541A is as good as they come, but is pretty hard to get. 2) Shunt regulators are well worth the extra effort due to the most times bad sonic signature of almost all large value electrolytic decoupling caps. The shunt regulator circuit should have low output impedance over a wide bandwidth and only incorporate small value high quality (film) capacitors at the output. These should be used for the analog sections and the DAC reference if available. 3) ASRC is usually a bad thing, but may in some cases yield some benefit. Certainly if the incoming jitter is very high the ASRC could be useful to clean it up. However, a 2nd PLL could also do the same thing without adding it's own signature to the signal. Putting it in the design is fine, but a BYPASS option should be included. 4) The WM8804/5 is a cut above the rest in terms of jitter rejection at the SPDIF interface. In fact, a secondary PLL may not even be necessary when using this reciever due to its very low jitter clock recovery architecture. Let me know if I got this right?
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audio4life |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philadelphia
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a few more questions:
1) good point about >96kHz sampling rate. Can you give me an example or two of where one might need to have the higher rate capability? I am not very familiar with all of the audio formats out there. As far as I know my CD player will not send anything higher than 16/44 unless I turn the upsampling on, which is a bad idea. 2) I understand that BJT's are better suited electrically for the common base I/V stage, but does this translate to better sound? Does the particular BJT used matter much? or does it just need to have enough bandwidth and power handling? 3) What about DF1704? Do I use this with PCM1704? or NOS
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audio4life |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Philadelphia
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The OPA861 is very interesting. I have not seen this part before.
How does it compare sonically to a discrete BJT in common base I/V? I will have to read up on the DEM reclocking and attenuated I2S. I am not familiar with these. Can you give me the basic idea behind them?
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audio4life |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Sadly those bashing ASRC-s never give solid evidence, and the 'net is full with the contrary . Upsampling as popular term appeared with the dCS 972 , so I suggest reading those reviews. It was about the time when pcm1704 was new. Also the dCS thing is somewhat unique piece of gear because not only it does resampling , but user can set many types of noise shaping , and highest order (7? -9? ) was found to sound best, especially with PCM/multibit converters. I think the ESS has only 4th order , so this might be not the best . : ))
Also I think Im goin to sell some 4-5 pc's of pcm1704K in a few weeks, old-old datecodes, pulled, no ROHS. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
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Low cost and good sound ?
Just use one piece CS8414 in slave mode, and a ES9022 with a 50MHz Crystek clock. Simple 5V & 3.3V supply (LT1761s). No IV circuits etc to worry about. Less than $50 without power supply (battery). See Anybody using the new ESS Vout DAC (ES9022)? and PM John. He'll tell you stories. ![]() Patrick |
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