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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Norge
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Hi all
So say about $600-700, or so + 450 euro or so for the unit. + the work and you have to really know what you are doing ![]() I guess for me it would be safer to get a used BSS , or something ![]() cheers
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- Jan - |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Buenos Aires
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Hi folks, slow down, mods would be nice but the present quality is not bad at all. Today I just listen to one of my units and the sound -this is very preliminary-is very good.
Running along a Protools HD system that is regarded as "state of the art" in the profesional sound industry, the sound is Ok. We'll do more critical tests when we finish the Urei 809 mods. Ric |
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Scandinavia
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You should be able to get quite far with $50
You should be able to do most of these things for $150-200 if you don't measure your time -- it is true that you need to know what you are doing. It should, however be possible to come up with a "cookbook approach", or at least a "how I did it" approach with some photos etc. For me it is mostly for fun. Petter |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
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Does anyone know the power supply voltages for that switcher? I'd like to do a 12V conversion on one.
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Netherlands (East)
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Ricren,
Good news! Keep us posted! About the mods: For me the discussion is a good "learning experience" - I will too use it as is for now and maybe do some "simple" mods later...By that time Petter will have it all figured out anyway ......... RobM Sorry, I just closed the unit again.....otherwise I would have measured them for you.... If I look at the pictures though I see a lot of black wires and one single red one; could be that is + 12V(?) only (see also the regs(?) on the main board near the power connector) I will do a measurement for you tomorrow. Henry
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The way you do things, things do you |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Netherlands (East)
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Wrong!
I just measured the voltages op the plug in the power supply: + 15 V (red wire) - 15 V + 8.8 V 0 V 0 V + 5.0 V + 3.3 V remaining wires: black Henry.
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The way you do things, things do you |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: PA USA
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Hi,
I don't mean to start any trouble, but after reading this thread, I would like to know why would someone go through the costly and potentially harmfull process of upgrading the performance of a generic DSP box? The algorithms available in it, IMHO don't justify the trouble. So, you'll get nice sounding converters and output stages, you still are very limited as far as crosover slopes go. With a lot of know how, good measuring/ loudspeaker CAD software and a lot of effort you might come close to the performance offered by a purpose designed analog crossover, be it of active or passive variety. So what your crossover's clock has low jitter, if the final product (the actual loudspeaker) has bad frequency response, poor phase tracking, serious lobing problems etc. Anyone with enough knowledge and tools to make a good final product using the Behringer is capable of achieving the same or better results with 10% cost and 50% effort. Just my opinion. YMMV.
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"Most people just say what they know, the wise ones know just what to say." |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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Hi,
my thoughts are to connect the behringer directly to the output of my cd player. and on the outputs of the behringer i will connect the amps. i think it`s the money only worth, when stying digital from cd player until the amps! But where to control volume? Has anyone made soun experiences between passive crossover and behringer digital active crossover? has someone idea how to connect spdif from cd player to aes/ebu of behringer? is there anywhere a converter? greets, Ralf |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Netherlands (East)
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Thunau
Hi Jan, It seems you know about the DSP software algorithms etc. used in the DCX2496, could you explain to us why you think they are not worth it? Crossover slopes: I think selectable crossover slopes from 6 to 24 db/Oct (Bes/But) and 48 dB/Oct (But.) are not too bad? And that brings me to what I think is one of the biggest advantages of a dig-xover: Flexibility!!! Esprcialy for us DIY'ers the optimal solution to very easily change and experiment with a number of key parameters of an active loudspeaker system! Henry.
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The way you do things, things do you |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Netherlands (East)
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Hi Ralf,
The DCX2496 accepts SPDIF as well according to the manual. If you want to stay digital "all the way" up to the (analog)amplifiers that is where you want to do the volume control IMO. Promblem might be that you have to do this for all amps (In a 3-way stereo sytem this would require 6 (coupled) "devices" (eg, 6 conventional potentiometers) See for a possible solution one of Petters posts in this thread, it has a link to a very interesting solution. Henry.
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The way you do things, things do you |
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