Behringer DCX2496 digital X-over

Spending $650 for two AS2.100 means spending about $200-250 for the two included crossovers.

What is the addition $200-250?? $650 is the total $$$ for 2 AS2.100 which will run two main speakers (2 amps, 2 XOs).

The DCX is $300, The mod is $500, 4 channels of amplification is $500 = $1300.

btw, Im not interested in your opinion one what has better SQ because we live in different worlds.
 
I just tried to buy Jan's active mod from Pilgham, only to find that, in the return email, they made a very cryptic reference to not having any response to an order until early November of this year. No explanation and no real indication that this is the actual time frame.

Just so you know what I found. I intend to leave the order in place, though I think I have 7 days in which to retract it, though again the email had no further information, other than two dates.

Someone who actually knows the folks at Pilgham might want to mention the importance of completeness of information, in return emails, to them.

Bud
 
Thanks so its $600 vs $1050.

I didn't know the mod was $400 Euro actually. Are the same links as way, way back in the thread, although Im not sure what the SRCmod is :confused: (link?) These mods require some soldering skills, correct?

Actually it is €600 vs €647.

So you spend €47 for ~20dB (SNR) better ADCs+DACs and better amps and the possibility for several upgrades e.g.: low jitter clock (€67 SRC/Clock ) and remote analog volume control (€270 DCX 2496 active upgrade ).

So the good old DCX is still not such bad at all and it is still very competitive too.

If you are not able to handle SMD there are build versions (+€50). Without soldering skills you could use Wards modding service for a completely modded DCX (€60+) or you can use the original DCX as it is.
 
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I just tried to buy Jan's active mod from Pilgham, only to find that, in the return email, they made a very cryptic reference to not having any response to an order until early November of this year. No explanation and no real indication that this is the actual time frame.

Just so you know what I found. I intend to leave the order in place, though I think I have 7 days in which to retract it, though again the email had no further information, other than two dates.

Someone who actually knows the folks at Pilgham might want to mention the importance of completeness of information, in return emails, to them.

Bud

Hi Bud,

I think this must be a fluke. I met Ward from Pilgham last week at a mutual friend and I understood he was still delivering my active mod.
I'll get him to reply to you asap.

jd
 
Actually it is €600 vs €647.

So you spend €47 for ~20dB (SNR) better ADCs+DACs and better amps and the possibility for several upgrades e.g.: low jitter clock (€67 SRC/Clock ) and remote analog volume control (€270 DCX 2496 active upgrade ).

So the good old DCX is still not such bad at all and it is still very competitive too.

If you are not able to handle SMD there are build versions (+€50). Without soldering skills you could use Wards modding service for a completely modded DCX (€60+) or you can use the original DCX as it is.


Do you have Wards modding service link?


Your numbers just do not add up to all my numbers I have done many, many times over the past two years. Its still comes out to about +$500 US for a decent DCX Mod. Granted I have always looked a the completely built kits. You also assume I would build an amp, That isnt going to happen so I still see this as a $600 vs $1000 debate.

Is $400 really a big deal??? It actually depends.
 
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Do you have Wards modding service link?


Your numbers just do not add up to all my numbers I have done many, many times over the past two years. Its still comes out to about +$500 US for a decent DCX Mod. Granted I have always looked a the completely built kits. You also assume I would build an amp, That isnt going to happen so I still see this as a $600 vs $1000 debate.

Is $400 really a big deal??? It actually depends.

For contacting Ward just read the two already given links carefully.

The amp isn't a kit. It's a build B&O product ICEpower — Speaker Engine Solutions
 
For contacting Ward just read the two already given links carefully.

The amp isn't a kit. It's a build B&O product ICEpower — Speaker Engine Solutions

250SX2 is a board from B&O, even your link shows it as a board and and a kit, besides its B&Os site they do not sell amps just the modules, they sell them to businesses not individuals..

$200 Euro for two completed 2 ch amps would be simply incredible so Im looking.
 
@oettle

I just read through the instructions you sent me, which for I thank you by the way.
In there you mention to temporarily remove C1,C6 and C7. Now is it possible you mean C1,C2 and C4 because these are the cap's that are in the direct area of IC1.
Still haven't figured out what you mean by bending and flattening pins and inserting header pins, but that's for a later stage. First I'm going to remove everything from the main DSP board that I wont be needing anymore.
I'll be back ;)

Regards
 
Back from vacation, I'm ready to order 2496 mods now (finally!). It looks like the easiest first step is to get the Oettle src/clock mod fully assembled. I use AES/EBU input at rates from 44.1 to 96khz mainly (though 192k is sometimes available). I would prefer not to do much soldering, but especially I *cannot* do any SMD soldering...wouldn't even want to try. Isn't this just ribbon cable plug in?

For output, I like pseudo balanced operation because I have combination of balanced and unbalanced components. I don't mind the full output level of the DCX, but could probably get by with 5V RMS if it can do that cleanly. No transformers please. I don't need level controls on output, but it looks like the best option for me (Jan's active) includes remote level control whether I need it or not. But I'm not clear about what kind of soldering skill that requires.
 
Am in the middle of Jan's board right now.

How are your ribbon cable skills?

Other than the two 6 pin SMD chips for analog in, if you need it, everything else is straight forward and clear.

Some notes:

Put all resistors, called for in each step, in first. Then mount other components.

Pre fit all of the components for the remote board before soldering. There is an interference fit problem with one of the tiny WIMA caps and one of the centipede chip headers you should be aware of.

The stand offs that hold the remote board in place will need about another 0.030" in extra height to allow the board to be centered in the space available, or you MUST pull all components down very tight to the board. I just used a nylon spacer available from my local hardware store oddities bins.

The main board is a delight, real ground planes, no wonder it is said to sound very good. However you may need a hobby magnifier visor for the actual soldering, the pads are very small.

Get Franks fairly inexpensive voltage regulators too. Two of them, pre made.

Ward at Pilgham is going on vacation towards the end of the month, July 22nd until August 8th and claims he will not see emails.

Bud
 
Well it sounds like building Jan's active is way too much soldering for me. I only like to a little bit of point-to-point, like soldering to power or switches. When I get to doing Jan's active, or something like that, I think I'll see about having someone else build the mod.

Meanwhile, what about the soldering required for the Oettle src/clock if I buy the "assembled" version. Does that require any soldering, and, if so, how much? I might need to have that one built for me as well. In particular, does it require any soldering to leads on surface mounted chips?