There isn't much I know of that replaces the DCX. Pro amps now have DSP and crossovers built in, so the need for something like the DCX is fast disappearing.
If you can get the digital section working again, then replacing the analog in and out is the way to go.There are many options for this. The digital part is fine, the analog sections are not.
If you can get the digital section working again, then replacing the analog in and out is the way to go.There are many options for this. The digital part is fine, the analog sections are not.
A modern advanced equivalent the t.racks FIR DSP 408
T. Racks also have cheaper simpler dsp xovers. I have the cheapest, and its fine
I have no complaints. Most important for me is that the level matching is more suitable for hifi, than dcx, so less noise.
ok, so i recieved a new EEPROM, replaced it and start redoing the settings and save them via the Store menu, when i power it off and back on, all the settings where lost.
after multiple tries, it appears that it does not store any modification.
Do you know if there is any thing to do? or is it completely broken?
after multiple tries, it appears that it does not store any modification.
Do you know if there is any thing to do? or is it completely broken?
I love my DCX2496. My laptop feeds a USB signal to a device that converts it to SPDIF/coax. So I am digital right into Input Jack A.
Today, I finally tried to answer the question about whether it is better to input all the digits and attenuate the analog signal after the DSP or is it OK to attenuate at the source (like right in your laptop)?
The crude test is reported at post #6:
Volume control (digital attenuator) for USB
B.
Today, I finally tried to answer the question about whether it is better to input all the digits and attenuate the analog signal after the DSP or is it OK to attenuate at the source (like right in your laptop)?
The crude test is reported at post #6:
Volume control (digital attenuator) for USB
B.
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I used the digital input for home use, at work it's not an option. I do like the digital input.
For volume, or rather gain structure I set my 3 power amps to about as loud as I ever need, then use digital volume control in the software player. 10-12dB was about all that was ever needed in my listening room, which surprised me.
The difference between analog and digital (at no more than 12dB) was nearly impossible for me to hear or measure. The digital tracked a little better and was cleaner, but not by a huge amount. So I stuck with digital. That said, I don't use the Behringer output circuitry, which is noisy, so my output was cleaner than stock to begin with, and at a lower level.
For volume, or rather gain structure I set my 3 power amps to about as loud as I ever need, then use digital volume control in the software player. 10-12dB was about all that was ever needed in my listening room, which surprised me.
The difference between analog and digital (at no more than 12dB) was nearly impossible for me to hear or measure. The digital tracked a little better and was cleaner, but not by a huge amount. So I stuck with digital. That said, I don't use the Behringer output circuitry, which is noisy, so my output was cleaner than stock to begin with, and at a lower level.
I use Digital USB volume control at a Basic Win 10 computer (Async USB out) to a Gustard U12 at 24bit / 192k to a Wolfson 8741 DAC, direct to Amp (either a Quicksilver 8417 Clone or Krell KSA50 Clone or Hypex NCore NC400, depending on time of year).
Chopping bits at 24 bit / 192k a non issue...from what I read...sounds better than with Analog pre volume control I had.
Chopping bits at 24 bit / 192k a non issue...from what I read...sounds better than with Analog pre volume control I had.
