I won't be applying the clock / jitter / dead sound improvement until later this fall, when I can afford to do so. The commentary says that there is SMD work to be done to the Berringer DSP board, but that the finished module does plug right in. I don't know if the mfg's ribbon cable is the one used or if a new cable must be made.
As for Jan's board, it really is not difficult to do the soldering. You will need a short needle tip from the #7 heat range. I must also have the $20 visor with flip down magnifying lenses, but I have to have that for model building or any other craft work, like EnABL patterning speakers, than I might choose to do. I found the cable making to be the embarrassing part, and awaiting parts to remake the cables has stopped the project at the first signal test stage. Had I actually understood the directions, I would have already finished the kit, so it is not the fault of either the kit or the documentation, that I am stalled.
As for Jan's board, it really is not difficult to do the soldering. You will need a short needle tip from the #7 heat range. I must also have the $20 visor with flip down magnifying lenses, but I have to have that for model building or any other craft work, like EnABL patterning speakers, than I might choose to do. I found the cable making to be the embarrassing part, and awaiting parts to remake the cables has stopped the project at the first signal test stage. Had I actually understood the directions, I would have already finished the kit, so it is not the fault of either the kit or the documentation, that I am stalled.
Now I'm seeing that a lot of people are complaining about the reliability of the DCX (and especially, it seems) DEQ power supply. The heat sinking and capacitors used are marginal, right on the edge, and often fail after a few years of usage. What about mods for THAT? (Or is it as much of a problem with DCX as with DEQ?)
Speaking from my own experience, I have two functioning DCX units, one has functioned fine for about 2 years, the other about 5 years. I have one functioning DEQ, with about 3 years on it. I also had another DEQ fail about 3 years ago, after just over a year of usage. The one that failed is completely dead, suggesting power supply failure. Since I already had a spare DEQ (the one I'm using now was originally my spare) and little time, I've never actually checked it out.
One thing I'm more careful about now I I always put small feet, at least 3/8 inch, underneath each unit to allow for ventilation (above and below). When I had one unit fail, it had another box stacked right on top of it. Now I'm thinking it wouldn't be a bad idea to puts holes in the covers right above the power supply for ventilation.
Speaking from my own experience, I have two functioning DCX units, one has functioned fine for about 2 years, the other about 5 years. I have one functioning DEQ, with about 3 years on it. I also had another DEQ fail about 3 years ago, after just over a year of usage. The one that failed is completely dead, suggesting power supply failure. Since I already had a spare DEQ (the one I'm using now was originally my spare) and little time, I've never actually checked it out.
One thing I'm more careful about now I I always put small feet, at least 3/8 inch, underneath each unit to allow for ventilation (above and below). When I had one unit fail, it had another box stacked right on top of it. Now I'm thinking it wouldn't be a bad idea to puts holes in the covers right above the power supply for ventilation.
Pilgham also have a replacement low noise linear power supply designed by me that they sell.
jd
I use my DCX as a subwoofer filter and I have the Selectronics outputboard that uses the INA134,so it has RCA outputs.Now I am rebuilding my sub amp
with an amp that has balanced inputs so I wanna use balanced signal from the DCX on one channel the subcannel.So I´m thinking of taking the signal from the INA134´s input but I need a way to isolate the voltage from the DAC.
A trafo is one (expensive)way,2 capasistors or 2 opams..Suggestions?
I don´t need any gain so I guess a buffer on + and - would do,any one have a schema?
with an amp that has balanced inputs so I wanna use balanced signal from the DCX on one channel the subcannel.So I´m thinking of taking the signal from the INA134´s input but I need a way to isolate the voltage from the DAC.
A trafo is one (expensive)way,2 capasistors or 2 opams..Suggestions?
I don´t need any gain so I guess a buffer on + and - would do,any one have a schema?
whAOO
Is there anybody knows wher i can find it
I use 2 DCX on my 5 ways sytem horn with 75cms subwofer.
THanks
Steven
I read all of pages but not found something about the original schematic of suplly to DCX2496.
Is there anybody knows wher i can find it
I use 2 DCX on my 5 ways sytem horn with 75cms subwofer.
THanks
Steven
Ok Andrew but where
278 pages to found it
you suggest to kill me
If you have the link
Thanks
Steven
If you bought your DCX new, then I would return it under warranty.
If you have no warranty then you can try to fix it.
I bought my DCX cheap with the 'frying bacon' noise.
The compete fix was to replace the large ribbon cable inbetween the 2 PCBs that carries all the audio signals between the boards. You could try reseating the cable. It is tricky job though as the connector is hot glued down.
I am pretty sure that the real problem with my DCX was the header for the ribbon cable on the I/O board. Not the plug end on the digital PCB.
My complete cure was to remove the ribbon cable completely, and replace it with 26 individual wires.
You will find various theorys for the 'frying bacon' noise.
Some refer to the fact that the I/O pcb is so close to the case that it is shorting out. I think that some insulation under this PCB is worthwhile just for peace of mind. Almost all of the cures listed will involve moving the ribbon cable. this then 'fixes' the problem
Do you have any information on if this is a known issue at Behringer service centers? I'd hate to have the unit sent in and have it returned without a proper repair/swap. It'd be real easy for a service center to blame my wiring/amp/setup or some stupid thing like that, even if I am 100% positive it's my #6 channel that is making the noise.
The unit is brand new, bought over the counter less than a month ago. Haven't used #6 channel until now as I am still building the speakers.
The unit is brand new, bought over the counter less than a month ago. Haven't used #6 channel until now as I am still building the speakers.
Since I bought mine secondhand and fixed it myself I will just refer you to this thread on the speakerplans forum
Behringer Ultradrive Problems Poll - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
Behringer Ultradrive Problems Poll - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1