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#11 |
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space charged
diyAudio Member
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How about if the dc blocking cap were moved to the input of the B1 circuit and using Salas's symetric B1. Then a smaller(affordable) high quality cap could be used instead. I don't know if the input cap at that circuit point loads it too much?
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#12 | |||||
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Sometimes a square peg fits a round hole just fine
diyAudio Member
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niot always, but I have a weakness) sio yes I think this and the acko dac would make great partners and I would be interested for sure; I think it easier to keep a wider pitch on the pin headers though, to keep it more flexible.Quote:
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#13 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The Netherlands
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Please add output series resistors just like the B1 and the Hypnotize/Mezemerize have. They are needed. When the B1 part would be fed symmetrically the output cap can be omitted. Even a ( very slow ) servo + "muting at power on" circuit can be added to adjust output offset.
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It's only audio Last edited by jean-paul; 20th November 2009 at 01:26 PM. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Guys,
Jean Paul, You’re absolutely correct; the circuit does need that 1k series resistor. I have it on my prototype, but it wasn’t in my simulation, which is what I posted. There are a few other discrepancies, namely that the two resistors to set the voltage at the gate of the fets are not as shown. I’ll double check their values and re-post a proper schematic. The lower resistor (gate to ground) is actually a pot, but it’s easier to just use a resistor for simulation. Also, the 1k on the output is a load, and should be the same 221k as the B1. Ichiban, As for the capacitor questions, it’s not possible to do away with the output cap entirely since, as relder pointed out, the drain of each of the fets is at about 9VDC. The cap could be moved to the input, if the lower fet was tied to –18V instead of ground, but as Jean Paul mentioned, you’d likely need some form of pop/click suppression. Overall, I much prefer the cap on the output, but the other way could work as well. By the way, the 22uF is just a suggested value. I’m using 4.7uF right now for testing, and it doesn’t roll off by any meaningful amount in the bottom end. Take a look at the input impedance of what you’re driving and calculate it from there. If you have a 10K input impedance on the next stage, you can get away with a 1uF cap and your turnover frequency will be 16Hz. I still haven’t had a chance to fire up the AP and measure the single-ended performance, but I’ll hopefully get around to it this weekend. I’m still working on the layout, but it’s not quite there yet. I’ll post an update with a final schematic (identical to my prototype) and the layout when I get some spare time. Can someone post a direct link to Acko's most up to date schematic? Cheers, Owen |
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#15 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dublin
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Hi Owen,
Acko isn't going to post a schematic but I believe he emailed you to collaborate on the plug & socket arrangement between boards. Drop him an email! |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Hi Owen,
I have sent a PM to you. Please contact me for details of the ackoDAC interface. Hope to hear from you soon. Regards, Acko |
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#17 | |
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Sometimes a square peg fits a round hole just fine
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Last edited by qusp; 20th November 2009 at 08:02 PM. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Hi qusp,
The 1k resistor goes on the output of the I/V stage. The input impedance to the IV stage is very very low. With 30mA p-p of input current, I see less than 18.5mV p-p of swing at the DAC output. That’s an effective impedance of less than 1 ohm. It’s part of the reason this circuit is so nice. It really lets the DAC operate at its best. Hope this helps. Cheers, Owen |
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#19 |
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Sometimes a square peg fits a round hole just fine
diyAudio Member
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well that sounds perfect, sorry I had thought you were talking about the entrance to this circuit, not the output of this; input to the next amp stage. NICE!!
also, with the possible implementation of a digital volume control with the micro, will the buffer have enough drive to feed 300ohm balanced headphones directly like I can/could with my buffalo32 if I wish?? and also lower Z cans with the addition of an optional load resistor on the output of the buffer?? this is how I had by buffalo set up, I used an otto (relay) to switch TX2575 650R resistors into the signal for low z cans and remove them for less efficient cans and driving my active monitors and amp directly. I really liked this flexibilty. no biggie if not, but would be cool if that was still an option. Last edited by qusp; 20th November 2009 at 09:03 PM. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Guys,
I started a discussion with Acko, and it looks like everything should be a go! Once I get details on how the output section of his DAC is setup (layout, size, pinouts, etc...) then I can lay out the I/V stage and get boards made that will fit like a glove with the DAC. In the meantime I'll be tweaking the circuit a little more, and hopefully I can get some SE measurements this weekend. qusp: I ran the headphone option through the simulator, and it doesn't look like it's going to work. I'm not sure what the headphones need for voltage to get decent listening levels, but the output voltage has dropped quite a bit by the time you get a 300 ohm load across the output. You'd be down to under 2V p-p which may or may not be enough. I don't know how much voltage a pair of headphones would need. What I can do is add a connector at the output to allow a separate headphone amp to piggy-back on the outputs. If it were me, I'd probably build a scaled-down SOZ designed to drive headphones, but an op-amp could work well too. You could also use a multitude of other headphone amps designed specifically for the purpose and get very good performance. I often listen to music on my headphones at work, so I could be easily persuaded to do a headphone amp option. Cheers, Owen |
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