Hi
after using the 1543DAC from QLSHIFI.com for 3 months I found the PCM1793 DAC on their site.
http://www.qlshifi.com/en/wzcapi/Mini1793.htm
The 1543DAC sounds good after some mods but compared to a PCM1607 or PCM56 or AK4396 it misses some details and dynamics.
Would it be an improvement to settle up to the PCM1793 DAC or is it (much) better to get a CS4398 DAC (gigawork) or PCM1798 DAC with tube output (qlshifi)?
The limit is about 200 US$. There are some DACs from renowned manufacturer that are in a comparable price area (DACmagic or V-DAC).
after using the 1543DAC from QLSHIFI.com for 3 months I found the PCM1793 DAC on their site.
http://www.qlshifi.com/en/wzcapi/Mini1793.htm
The 1543DAC sounds good after some mods but compared to a PCM1607 or PCM56 or AK4396 it misses some details and dynamics.
Would it be an improvement to settle up to the PCM1793 DAC or is it (much) better to get a CS4398 DAC (gigawork) or PCM1798 DAC with tube output (qlshifi)?
The limit is about 200 US$. There are some DACs from renowned manufacturer that are in a comparable price area (DACmagic or V-DAC).
The DAC chip itself is not the sole determiner of acoustic performance, and the same DAC chips are used in many products. When comparing two DACs, you're comparing "a product based on TDA1543 IC" against "a product based on AK4396", and not TDA1543 vs AK4396. I wouldn't let the DAC chip hinder my decision as the analogue stage tends to affect the sound signature more.
Look at the site's NG98A/B for example - the AD1852 and CS4398 versions of the DAC sells for the same price. Really I don't see how a part costing less than $5 warrants a huge sway in price if the rest of the parts are identical.
Look at the site's NG98A/B for example - the AD1852 and CS4398 versions of the DAC sells for the same price. Really I don't see how a part costing less than $5 warrants a huge sway in price if the rest of the parts are identical.
I am getting a DAC based on PCM1798 similar to the one from qlshifi, except it has USB, Sdpif or Toslink input. I am buying directly from Mainland China hence cheaper too. I am waiting for it to arrive. I think the designer is the same as the one you mention from qlshifi. I don't think you can get this model from qlshifi.
Cheers.
Tolu, ttan98, did you get your DAC? Any report on it - what price?
I'm experimenting with a PCM1793 & would appreciate any input you might have!.
Jkeny
Yes I just got my PCM1798 with spdif, usb and toslink inputs and valve output. The PCB and components are of very good quality. I bought mine from mainland china and cheaper. You can still buy directly from another outlet who accepts Paypal but you have to pay extra.
I have yet to solder in the components in and cannot report the sound quality, my soldering ability of SMD is next to none and I will spend sometime soldering them correctly.
If I start over again I will try using other chipsets, have a look at ready assembled boards based on oversampled chipset like AD1852(*), and non-oversampled chipset like AD1865(**)
If you refer chipset with 24bit and 192 bits/s sampling then look for AD1955. From what I read most users prefer AD1955 over the PCM1798. This is the conclusion I read after reading EXTENSIVELY reading on this forum and elsewhere.
* you can buy ready made boards and also off the shelf DAC based on this chipset. An example is china made DAC called Zero, costs about US$160 incl postage. Buy this and modify it to your hearts contend, eg add o/p transformer, valve, op amp, etc, much quicker then designing, constructing and testing it from scratch.
** this is preferred by Ciufolo from Audio design and Audionote.
Cheers have fun
Yes I just got my PCM1798 with spdif, usb and toslink inputs and valve output. The PCB and components are of very good quality. I bought mine from mainland china and cheaper. You can still buy directly from another outlet who accepts Paypal but you have to pay extra.
I have yet to solder in the components in and cannot report the sound quality, my soldering ability of SMD is next to none and I will spend sometime soldering them correctly.
If I start over again I will try using other chipsets, have a look at ready assembled boards based on oversampled chipset like AD1852(*), and non-oversampled chipset like AD1865(**)
If you refer chipset with 24bit and 192 bits/s sampling then look for AD1955. From what I read most users prefer AD1955 over the PCM1798. This is the conclusion I read after reading EXTENSIVELY reading on this forum and elsewhere.
* you can buy ready made boards and also off the shelf DAC based on this chipset. An example is china made DAC called Zero, costs about US$160 incl postage. Buy this and modify it to your hearts contend, eg add o/p transformer, valve, op amp, etc, much quicker then designing, constructing and testing it from scratch.
** this is preferred by Ciufolo from Audio design and Audionote.
Cheers have fun
Hi Jkeny
the MiniDAC PCM1793 works good. It sounds very good (esp. for it's price). I just removed the OPA2134 and plugged in a LM4562. Not a big difference.
Sound is very clear and well defined. Very neutral!
The output stage is same like TI datasheet! Price was 55 Euro.
One shortfall: when there is no digital source locked to the receiver, the DAC puts out some ugly hiss.
the MiniDAC PCM1793 works good. It sounds very good (esp. for it's price). I just removed the OPA2134 and plugged in a LM4562. Not a big difference.
Sound is very clear and well defined. Very neutral!
The output stage is same like TI datasheet! Price was 55 Euro.
One shortfall: when there is no digital source locked to the receiver, the DAC puts out some ugly hiss.
I also noticed the hiss on my miniDAC when I received it the other day. Shouldn't this be handled by the DIR9001?
hmm.. not really sure what I did or what happened, but I decided to bypass the whole input selection since I will only be using it for an optical source. When I was fiddling around I noticed I got a very "chopped" sound. I had kept the mute wire soldered to the MUTE pin on the PCM1793 but the other end was floating. When i touched the wire the music sounded great and I realized the MUTE actually worked. I soldered the wire back to the ERROR pin and the optical receiver directly connected to the input of the DIR9001. It plays music, is silence when supposed to so I am happy.
All-in-all I think I would actually recommend this DAC but be prepared to do some soldering and tweaking.
All-in-all I think I would actually recommend this DAC but be prepared to do some soldering and tweaking.
I have been looking into the power supply section of this DAC for a few weeks now and would like to drive the opamp with a "proper" symmetrical power supply. Then I thought about using a building a multi stage RC-filter for the 3.3 and 5V from a large 12V transformer, and use potentiometers and create a tap for 5V and then one for 3.3V. The power requirements for the IC's seem to be quite low so in my world a RC-setup would work. Are there any disadvantages with this setup?
Would it make any sense to redesign the LPF filter?
The original seem to be built with negative feedback but when I use the Filter Pro software from Texas Instruments I can only choose fully differential with multiple feedback. Are there any disadvantages with this setup instead of just negative feedback?
The original seem to be built with negative feedback but when I use the Filter Pro software from Texas Instruments I can only choose fully differential with multiple feedback. Are there any disadvantages with this setup instead of just negative feedback?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I don't quite understand. A regular OP-amp only has one output. How can it be balanced? Or is the difference how the voltage swings compared to the ground plane? If the entire wave is above 0V or if the signal is both above and below 0V?
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