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#431 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Replace XO and HEX Inverter, power them from a Flea PSU with the appropriate cap selection for bypassing. Highly recommending Crystek XO (CCHD-957) and PotatoSemi Hex Inverter (PO74G14A). Quote:
I confirm this has positive impact to bass and stage clarity. Changed the Diodes to Schottky however I haven't noticed any improvement with this mod. Last edited by gvelim; 5th March 2012 at 11:06 AM. |
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#432 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Hi all,
I've got the UWB module for the replacement of the 7805, 7815 and 7915. The 5V one working fine. But the 7815 and 7915 one working hot like burnning. I replace the NE5532 to the LM49720. Is it the reason to draw much current from the modules? I've got the input voltage of the modules is around +-23V..... The power transformer modified with the R-core AC12V in 30VA. Thanks! |
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#433 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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From experience it gets hot to the point you cannot touch the heat sink for more than 5". Your option is to replace the 56R resistors with 100R to decrease power dissipation ... ensure the voltage drop doesn't affect the min Vin tha UWB requires.
If you don't use RCA you can remove the opams too so you can reduce current draw. Also you can feed the 7505 UWB from the UREG to further relief the 7515 UWB Finally you could go for 9V transformer as long as your UWB can handle the voltage drop. Bear in mind this approach streches the DC/DC buck converter in the digital psu. For me the 100R/4W worked well, but made sound a bit brighter. |
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#434 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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The heatsink can't touch even a sec. I am quite sure it higher than 70c.
I need to use the RCA so there is no way to decrease the current drop. Now I need to remove the 15v modules until I found the solution of it. Thanks! Will update my mod later... |
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#435 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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I would like to know is the MC34063 just for step down to 5V in higher current?
Can I just pass it with the 7805 something? I am not sure why really need to use it after I read the data sheet. |
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#436 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Quote:
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#437 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Opening the new DacMagic???? All 4 of them feel equally hot on the browndogs. Assuming in this setup, 15mA go to the SRegs + 2 x OPA2120 and with 1) R400 at 100ohm I measured 5.86 voltage drop which gives 11mA per opamp 2) R400 at 56 ohm I measure 3.84 volatge drop which gives 13mA per opamp hope that clarifies the situation Last edited by gvelim; 7th March 2012 at 07:41 PM. |
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#438 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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#439 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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5.22V across R400 translates into 93mA spared across Dexa UWB and the 6 x LM49720 which you can assume for each consuming 10-14mA. That is 0.45W @ 30V Rail-to-Rail per opamp and with thermal resistance @145C/W you should be looking at around 80C at room temperature.
LM49720 datasheet gives idle current of 10mA which drives 0.3W @ 30V RtR, which again is > 60C temperature. Unless you have a high bandwidth oscilloscope to check the outputs for oscillations then you cannot tell whether the high temp is normal or due to a flaw in your mod. I had cases of oscillations because of opamp bad soldering that got fixed after re-soldering the IC. |
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#440 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Thanks for the help!
![]() Now I just put the 78/7915 back there. Becoz I found the sound after the modules mod not as well as the original one. Ok, the transparency is better and the soundstage bigger. Great performance but not musical. I've ordered the OP1642 for the last stage for the RCA output already. I tried to bypass and get the output from Phase + of the Balance. Also great performance but not musical to my system. That's why I keep it. I am thinking to separate the digital and analog power. The plan is 78/7915 get the power from the other 12-15VAC transformer. I think this would be the easier way to reduce the heat problem and make the sound better, right?
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