OK all things aside question for the public.
Which is your preferred cabinet thickness for sub woofer cabinets construction as well as speaker construction.Not talking material MDF or Baltic Birch ONLY material thickness.
I am asking a general question on which way to lead documentation for cabinet construction.This is not a debate of which is better or worse.Only which people preferrer ONLY .
Reply with your input for cabinet wall thickness preferred for subs and speaker cabinets.
Thanks Al
Which is your preferred cabinet thickness for sub woofer cabinets construction as well as speaker construction.Not talking material MDF or Baltic Birch ONLY material thickness.
I am asking a general question on which way to lead documentation for cabinet construction.This is not a debate of which is better or worse.Only which people preferrer ONLY .
Reply with your input for cabinet wall thickness preferred for subs and speaker cabinets.
Thanks Al
The two classes are actually quite different;
For big ast drivers such as SDX15, larger car subs etc, I kinda like to recess the mounting flange, and would generally build those with 2 layers of material on the driver panel at least.
On smaller fullrange and 2-way systems, a max of 18mm with adequate bracing (about which an interesting conversation could arise) seems about right.
Although not in your original question, I think it's important to keep in mind that smaller wide band drivers often need chamfer / roundover relief on the rear side of cutout, and most particularly so when baffles need to be thicker to accommodate flush mounting rebates and thick flanges. So I'd certainly include examples of that as part of any documentation on cabinet construction.
For big ast drivers such as SDX15, larger car subs etc, I kinda like to recess the mounting flange, and would generally build those with 2 layers of material on the driver panel at least.
On smaller fullrange and 2-way systems, a max of 18mm with adequate bracing (about which an interesting conversation could arise) seems about right.
Although not in your original question, I think it's important to keep in mind that smaller wide band drivers often need chamfer / roundover relief on the rear side of cutout, and most particularly so when baffles need to be thicker to accommodate flush mounting rebates and thick flanges. So I'd certainly include examples of that as part of any documentation on cabinet construction.
Ya I agree to a point all depends on the design. Flush mounting and baffles thickness so.e does not work with 3/4" others do.
Plus if you are building speaker cabinets a inside radius on the back side of the mid and or woofers to improve air movement behind the drivers.
Thanks guys for the input
Plus if you are building speaker cabinets a inside radius on the back side of the mid and or woofers to improve air movement behind the drivers.
Thanks guys for the input
I personally do not
Doing a questionnaire for Bob really to find out what is the most common used material thickness only.
Another words does it make sense to make documentation for the SDX 12 for sub cab I it's out of 3/4" material. The same applies for SDX10 .
Personally I would use 1.25" inside as well as outside and call it a day.
Does it make sense to have the same sub cabinets redrawn for 3/4,1,1.25 and 1.75" thick materials.
Al just asking
Doing a questionnaire for Bob really to find out what is the most common used material thickness only.
Another words does it make sense to make documentation for the SDX 12 for sub cab I it's out of 3/4" material. The same applies for SDX10 .
Personally I would use 1.25" inside as well as outside and call it a day.
Does it make sense to have the same sub cabinets redrawn for 3/4,1,1.25 and 1.75" thick materials.
Al just asking
19mm
Well, to be really anal about it , 3/4" = 19.05mm, and while attempting to honor Al's request not to engage the debate on the "why" of using different material types, some of us do - when was the last time you bought a sheet of 3/4" plywood that actually measured that thick?
So while the plans could be drawn for nominal material dimensions, it's the builder's responsibility to adjust as required for minor variations.
sorry Cal, I couldn't resist the bait
Al:
I'd say that any builder thinking of using different thickness of materials for one of your sub enclosure designs who can't do the math, perhaps shouldn't be given the keys to the workshop ?
Last edited:
Your word, not mine.
I can't buy 3/4" anymore, I buy 19mm.
Most fish can't.
Agreed.
I love ya man!
End of the day, 3/4 "nominal" / 18mm is common in NA at least. Unless you really think the SDX 12 can't work in a 3/4 cab, I would give those dimensions. As Chris says, its up to the builder to adjust for changes, and some people probably shouldn't use tools.
If you think it really needs a thicker baffle, say so and reflect that in the drawing. Unless I had concrete "don't do this" words from the vendor, I wouldn't use a 1.5" cab by default. Might double the baffle.
If you think it really needs a thicker baffle, say so and reflect that in the drawing. Unless I had concrete "don't do this" words from the vendor, I wouldn't use a 1.5" cab by default. Might double the baffle.
I personally do not
Doing a questionnaire for Bob really to find out what is the most common used material thickness only.
Another words does it make sense to make documentation for the SDX 12 for sub cab I it's out of 3/4" material. The same applies for SDX10 .
Personally I would use 1.25" inside as well as outside and call it a day.
Does it make sense to have the same sub cabinets redrawn for 3/4,1,1.25 and 1.75" thick materials.
Al just asking
If the "design" calls for a thicker than 3/4" baffle, I'd call it 1.5" baffle. Most people are gonna buy a sheet of 3/4 and won't buy 1" material just for the baffle. But they can build a double thick baffle. 3/4 is slightly over kill for bracing, but not bad. So, 3/4" works all around. A guy can buy a sheet and make a sub.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.