Holy crap! Did you call a piano moving crew to get those set up?I did my speakers and amp in solid slate...
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Solid stone looks fantastic, but the difficulty of using it makes it impractical for most of us.
The stone veneer I'm thinking of using is this stuff: Natural Stone Veneer
Its a thin layer 1 or 2 mm (1mm = a 25th of an inch) resin bonded to a glass fibre backing. I'm thinking of using it instead of a traditional wood veneer, in the hope of producing something that looks like a slate enclosure, suppresses resonance perhaps better than a timber veneer, and will be less susceptible to movement due to changes in humidity etc., with the effect that can have on bending the panels or splitting the veneer.
I've just had a couple of samples delivered and it looks very promising, but i wondered if it had crossed anyone else's radar yet?
The stone veneer I'm thinking of using is this stuff: Natural Stone Veneer
Its a thin layer 1 or 2 mm (1mm = a 25th of an inch) resin bonded to a glass fibre backing. I'm thinking of using it instead of a traditional wood veneer, in the hope of producing something that looks like a slate enclosure, suppresses resonance perhaps better than a timber veneer, and will be less susceptible to movement due to changes in humidity etc., with the effect that can have on bending the panels or splitting the veneer.
I've just had a couple of samples delivered and it looks very promising, but i wondered if it had crossed anyone else's radar yet?
Just to add a little, the stiffness is less than the substrate (hardwood ply), and it will be attached with a PVA or similar glue. I don't anticipate any attachment / detachment problems. The idea is that two materials with differing characteristics will inhibit either from freely resonating in the way it would if left on its own. But I accept the idea may be wrong. Tell me if you think it might be.
The idea is that two materials with differing characteristics will inhibit either from freely resonating in the way it would if left on its own.
That would be what i would think.
Go for it and come back to us with how it worked. And pictures of course :^)
dave
Holy crap! Did you call a piano moving crew to get those set up?
Built them horizontally, had to call in my brother to get them upright... had back ache for 3 weeks after
Haven't weighed them but my guess is >100kg for the big ones.
Upside - I'm not worried about them being stolen
I guess somewhere there's a billiards/pool/snooker table with some big cutouts!
I asked the local stone worker for a quote, was > 1000 euros.
Then I just bought a cheap angle grinder with diamond blade (<100 euro), and a few huge slate floor tiles (around 60 euros) and cut it myself
Actually really easy to do, diamond blade goes through slate like it's butter.
Small ones used 100x50x1.5cm tiles, large ones I only remember the thickness which was 28mm.
All in all took me *way* less time than the normal sanding/painting routine with MDF!
Solid stone looks fantastic, but the difficulty of using it makes it impractical for most of us.
Read my post above, cutting the slate and gluing the leather took me way less time / effort than the normal sanding/painting of MDF.
Built them horizontally, had to call in my brother to get them upright... had back ache for 3 weeks after
Hopefully this will help anyone copying your design: when lifting bend your knees, not your back, never lift if you have a twist in your spine.
Or just build a temporary A-frame with a pulley system that gives you some mechanical advantage. $30 in material and you've got a one-man show.Hopefully this will help anyone copying your design: when lifting bend your knees, not your back, never lift if you have a twist in your spine.
Great idea, never even considered using floor tile for cabinet finishing.I asked the local stone worker for a quote, was > 1000 euros.
Then I just bought a cheap angle grinder with diamond blade (<100 euro), and a few huge slate floor tiles (around 60 euros) and cut it myself
Actually really easy to do, diamond blade goes through slate like it's butter.
Small ones used 100x50x1.5cm tiles, large ones I only remember the thickness which was 28mm.
All in all took me *way* less time than the normal sanding/painting routine with MDF!
Great idea, never even considered using floor tile for cabinet finishing.
Just make sure you've inspected the tile in person before ordering - I made a mistake with the big ones where the bottom of the tile wasn't cut straight but had grooves in it
(For a floor that doesn't matter - for an airtight speaker it's a bit of a challenge ;-))
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