Discussion on what materials to build speakers out of - Page 86 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Construction Tips

Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 22nd December 2012, 01:38 AM   #851
roline is offline roline  United States
diyAudio Member
 
roline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: East Tennessee
Christmas stocking stuffers from the elven work shop. Solid top and bottom alternating grain, with 1/4" 9ply mahogany plywood laminated to the bottoms to prevent warping/ cracking; 3/4" oak plywood sides free from voids with 3/4x3/4 oak front and rear edges for rounding, 3/4" MDF internal baffles and braces for labyrinth. 3/4" MDF back and double ply MDF front. All MDF coated with thin penetrating epoxy, front and back 2+ coats prior to satin black paint. It gives the panels clean smooth edges and stiffens them up, especially the front. Back side of speaker mounting holes, flared and extra epoxy used to soak into the MDF for superior screw retention and to stiffen the assembly. Exterior surfaces coated with a special blend of "Spar Urethane" mixed with "Tung Oil" and mineral spirits to give a durable urethane finish but with the ease of a oil finish in application. The mineral spirits reduced the coating thickness to prevent runs so 8 coats were applied to make it into a clear satin armor.
Internal MDF surfaces covered with 1/2" carpet foam, 1/2" wool felt arrived too late and I had to substitute on the hidden internal surfaces. Acustic stuffing used; foam, felt and acustic-stuff...
The head elf liked them so much he is building himself a set when the work shop warms up..
Next year he is handing out small stockings.... He should have know when it all started with a 40watt/channel sweep tube amp, then there was a hybrid tube headphone amp...........
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Front_1.jpg (439.1 KB, 235 views)
File Type: jpg side3.jpg (138.4 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg front5.jpg (884.3 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg completed.jpg (68.4 KB, 207 views)
__________________
SO many tubes, SO little time!!!

Last edited by roline; 22nd December 2012 at 01:57 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th December 2012, 06:22 PM   #852
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by TinTurtle View Post
Tough to say, it depends on how wide the hardwood piece is. For example I am making some trim pieces now, and I will attach them to MDF sides. I am keeping them narrow. Plus I will only attach them in the middle so they can move, thats not really practical for what you are trying. Say a 4 inch by 8 inch piece... you could maybe get away with that, but a 14 x 18 would be a bad idea.

It is doubtful the glue will fail if you glued it properly, something else will give.. It might warp, or the hardwood could split. And sometimes it takes a while. I am helping a buddy with an old walnut chest, probably about 80 years old. Somewhere down the line, either originally or later, somebody laminated a 3/8 or so thick layer of walnut directly on the cedar, cross grain. Then it was in a damp area for a while, and the top just completely cut loose, warped all over the place.
After giving it a lot of thought and weighing the advice given on this thread, I've decided that I'm going to try building my 0.5-cubic foot speaker cabinets with 3/8" walnut glued to 1" MDF. My hunch is that whatever forces the walnut generates as it tries to move won't be suffucient to overcome the intertia of the much thicker MDF.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2013, 02:07 PM   #853
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzcyclist View Post
After giving it a lot of thought and weighing the advice given on this thread, I've decided that I'm going to try building my 0.5-cubic foot speaker cabinets with 3/8" walnut glued to 1" MDF. My hunch is that whatever forces the walnut generates as it tries to move won't be suffucient to overcome the intertia of the much thicker MDF.
I've finally got arounnd to starting this project. I've cut the MDF pieces and I resawed some 4/4 black walnut in half and planed it down to 5/16". I'm going to start assembling everything this weekend and I'll be taking pictures to show how it's going.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2013, 08:14 PM   #854
gassit is offline gassit  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Earth to Planet 10 again,

I've finished reading this thread, and a great read it is too!

I'm building a BR cabinet about 43" x 9" x 15" with four mid/bass drive units vertically aligned and a tweeter above them all.

It has two window braces behind the front baffle and extending to the back panel.

If it was your build, would you put any additional braces in the cabinet and, if so, what type and where?

Over and out...
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2013, 08:27 PM   #855
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
What is the orientation of the window braces? In a cabinet this size i would likely have a cross shaped brace running verically with an interuption behind the drivers -- might be difficult to achieve that last with 4 midbasses.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2013, 08:35 PM   #856
gassit is offline gassit  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Thank you for your reply.

The window braces are parallel to the base.

Yes, a vertical brace was what I was thinking of too.

I assume the cross shape would be the same shape as a T-shape?

I wonder if some sort of threaded rod arrangement could be used as an alternative...
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2013, 08:02 PM   #857
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzcyclist View Post
After giving it a lot of thought and weighing the advice given on this thread, I've decided that I'm going to try building my 0.5-cubic foot speaker cabinets with 3/8" walnut glued to 1" MDF. My hunch is that whatever forces the walnut generates as it tries to move won't be suffucient to overcome the intertia of the much thicker MDF.
The only thing I have left to do is cut/drill the holes for the speakers, the port and the binding posts. Here are some pictures that I took along the way:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC07808.jpg (813.7 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07810.jpg (607.3 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07811.jpg (664.0 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07815.jpg (739.4 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07817.jpg (346.7 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg DSC08605.jpg (347.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07813.jpg (884.5 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07821.jpg (530.8 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07818.jpg (491.3 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07822.jpg (984.7 KB, 18 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2013, 08:40 PM   #858
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzcyclist View Post
The only thing I have left to do is cut/drill the holes for the speakers, the port and the binding posts. Here are some pictures that I took along the way:
It turns out that the binding posts that I'm using won't work with speaker walls thicker than 1 inch, so I only used walnut on five sides instead of six and I used Formica on the back. In hindsight, I should have used 3/4-inch MDF on the back instead of 1-inch. Anyway, here are the rest of the pictures:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC08615.jpg (675.2 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg DSC08613.jpg (602.8 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg DSC08616.jpg (615.8 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg DSC08620.jpg (339.7 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg DSC08632.jpg (901.1 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSC08626.jpg (536.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg DSC08630.jpg (598.5 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg DSC09603.jpg (710.8 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg DSC09602.jpg (944.6 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg DSC09608.jpg (841.2 KB, 29 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2013, 09:34 PM   #859
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
diyAudio Member
 
JMFahey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
That Formica back destroys all the effort you made on the rest of the cabinet.
Make a back panel as thick as all others, and cut a small 1" x 2"window in it or whatever's needed just for the binding posts.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2013, 10:37 PM   #860
Enzo is offline Enzo  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lansing, Michigan
Exactly. You can buy commercial jack plates or cups from places like Parts Express.

That makes sense to me, but if you are into wood work, you could also use a router to make a cup in the wood. Mill out space for the two posts down to maybe half the thickness of the panel.

An example:
Round Speaker Terminal 2-7/8" Gold Spring-Loaded 260-276

They come in round or square, with spring loaded or banana posts, etc.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cone Materials Discussion J.R.Freeman Multi-Way 46 11th May 2009 01:22 AM
Other ESL build with simple materials available from local grocery stores Audio_idiot Planars & Exotics 69 7th September 2006 05:52 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:11 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2