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Old 26th March 2007, 11:37 PM   #91
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Default Re: building with real wood

Quote:
Originally posted by SCD

One more thought
You have to go with what you know. If this is a first project or an experiment go with cheap material for the prototype. Once you are happy with the design and performance make furniture if you have the skills and the tools.

Most of all spend you time making things that is really what it is all about.
This goes back to my original post on the subject. SCD obviously knows how to handle solid wood (nice work BTW), the beginner and even a person who believes himself good with the tools and ready for that solid pine project can fall victim to solid woods unpredictability.
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Old 26th March 2007, 11:59 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally posted by MJL21193
Dave: A little off topic again, but I noticed on your site that you deal vintage drivers. I have a pair of 8" woofers from a pair of Criterion 77 speakers. They are in pristine shape. Do you have any experience with these? I measured the T/S specs, and wasn't impressed. They are as follows, both drivers measure within 5% of each other, this is the average:
Fs - 107 Hz
Qms - 7.5
Qes - 2.3
Le - .52
Re - 6.3

I was thinking small OB, with that impossibly high Qes. Any ideas? Trash or Treasure?
Dave? No coment? Anyone?
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Old 27th March 2007, 12:17 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by MJL21193
Dave? No coment? Anyone?
Sorry missed that post -- trying to get some work done here (phase plug install for a customer with Visaton B200s from Omega).

Those are considered gold. Especially if they are alnico. A Coral OEM. You measured parms are within experimental (and age) error.

[wuote]* a comment from the guy who bought 2 pairs "these are great speakers! I have speakers ranging from $100-3000 and these rank up there. listening with modded sonic impact..bypassed the volume pot, using a 5687 tube pre.WOW"[/quote]

Do you have the ones with the holey basket or the ovals? Did you also rescue the other drivers? The superTweeter is quite unique.

I may have some of my measures here. These are open baffle speakers, and you can get away without tweeters, but often people add a pair of thimble tweeters coaxially mounted.

http://www.timn8er.com/coral_open_baffle_project.htm
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File Type: jpg coral-crit-8fr.jpg (56.6 KB, 860 views)
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Old 27th March 2007, 12:34 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10


Sorry missed that post -- trying to get some work done here (phase plug install for a customer with Visaton B200s from Omega).

Those are considered gold. Especially if they are alnico. A Coral OEM. You measured parms are within experimental (and age) error.

I may have some of my measures here. These are open baffle speakers, and you can get away without tweeters, but often people add a pair of thimble tweeters coaxially mounted.

http://www.timn8er.com/coral_open_baffle_project.htm
Thanks for the good news.
That's my driver in the picture, except the magnet assembly is standard ceramic puck ~ 150 grams. Also basket has oval holes.
I only have the woofers., but they are in amazing shape, no signs of distress. Cool mess dustcaps.
I was thinking OB from the measurements, any ideas on baffle size?

EDIT: Sorry didn't look at that link you posted before writing this. Baffle is a good size, not keen of a coaxial tweeter arrangement though. Screw up the image if it's mounted above?
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Old 27th March 2007, 01:43 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally posted by MJL21193
not keen of a coaxial tweeter arrangement though. Screw up the image if it's mounted above?
The specific tweeters used -- once shaped with ductseal or somesuch, become pahse plugs of a sort. Moving the tweeter above or below with a cap to XO circa 10k doesn't seem to affect imaging that much. You do want to use something that has limited dispersion to match the radiation pattern of the top of the FR.

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Old 27th March 2007, 03:14 AM   #96
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Default Re: building with real wood

Quote:
Originally posted by SCD
Good morning folks:
Good morning Scott. I read your post with great interest as I always do. It is so nice that with as much hands on experience as you have and I do mean hands on, that you could tell us that all we had to do was find some old growth fir and store it in our houses for 10 years before we used it. Thanks a lot buddy, you're a genius.

I didn't laugh once while reading your post. I'm really disappointed.

Quote:
Originally posted by chrisb
If nothing else, audio reproduction is about the art of balancing compromises.
Amen.

Wait... did Cal and Chris just agree on something audio? Uh-oh.

Quote:
[i] how thick does a cable need to be for bass frequencies? [/B]
Jumbo sized bass electons need jumbo wire, you know that.
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Old 27th March 2007, 03:30 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10


The specific tweeters used -- once shaped with ductseal or somesuch, become pahse plugs of a sort. Moving the tweeter above or below with a cap to XO circa 10k doesn't seem to affect imaging that much. You do want to use something that has limited dispersion to match the radiation pattern of the top of the FR.
All I've got laying around here for tweeters are a pair of Seas 19TAF/D08 and a pair of Max Fidelity MF-DT4a, both 3/4" metal domes. The Max I can find no information on at all, like it doesn't exist, and I haven't even heard them yet. The Seas is very good IMO, delivers the detail I like to hear at the top end. 10K a little high to cross though? I was thinking in the 4500 to 5500 range. No coil on the woofer? How does it handle at breakup?

EDIT: I sound like a little kid...
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Old 27th March 2007, 03:55 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose

To cite the steel example, yup, it does ring. No argment. But using an appropriate gauge for a given application will push the resonant point below this passband. About 10 gauge should do if I remember what Greg told me correctly.
From what I remember, increasing the thickness will also raise resonant frequency, since stiffness goes up with the cube while mass only follows linearly with thickness.
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Old 27th March 2007, 04:33 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally posted by 454Casull

From what I remember, increasing the thickness will also raise resonant frequency, since stiffness goes up with the cube while mass only follows linearly with thickness.
Are you refering to the steel? I would actually be interested in building a speaker from steel, but I,m not convinced the results would be any better. It's expensive, heavy and requires skills to work with that the average woodworker doesn't have (no matter how many episodes of Monster Garage you've watched. ).
You want stiffness, do what Wilson audio does - use Corian. Now that's something I'd like to try. I've worked with it before (counter top obviously) It glues together, and the glue joins the parts and leaves no seam. Very heavy, very strong.
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Old 27th March 2007, 05:30 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally posted by MJL21193

All I've got laying around here for tweeters are a pair of Seas 19TAF/D08 and a pair of Max Fidelity MF-DT4a, both 3/4" metal domes. The Max I can find no information on at all, like it doesn't exist, and I haven't even heard them yet. The Seas is very good IMO, delivers the detail I like to hear at the top end. 10K a little high to cross though? I was thinking in the 4500 to 5500 range. No coil on the woofer? How does it handle at breakup?

EDIT: I sound like a little kid...
If you want to use a dome, you should waveguide load it to reduce its deispersion.

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