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DragonMaster 10th August 2006 04:48 AM

Polishing to mirror-finish
I searched here and found a few guides on how-to get a mirror finish on speakers, but then a few persons give some new tips so I got a bit lost. Is there a -REAL- guide for this purpose? I'll have some speakers to paint in a while, but now, I'd need to know how to get a mirror finish on a bare steel chassis, and be able to KEEP it : Nevr-Dull and the like aren't lasting very long. Some solder spots are stuck on the chassis also. It's for two EICO HF-12 amps and an EICO HFT-90 tuner.

amt 10th August 2006 06:00 AM

Keeping bare steel mirror like is difficult. No matter what you use on it, oxidation is going to slowly give it a dull look. This is why a chassis is plated(or these days, just powdercoated). Nickel-chrome plating is what Mac, Dynaco etc do to the their steel chassis in order to eliminate the oxidation and keep them mirror like. Steel needs protection of some sort.

Your best bet is to sand/buff the metal as smooth as possible, finishing with #2000 wet/sand and/or and then polish by hand or mechanically. The less porosity the surface has, the longer it will stay shiney. Best of course is to have them plated if they are real keepers.

As to the speakers, just find a guide to autofinishes that is compatable with the type of paint you are going to use. But generally, it involves polishing and buffing with increasingly finer grit abrasives.
I painted a pair of cabinets once with left over Glasurit that a friend used on an Alfa Duetto. Red with 2 coats of clear. They were incredible looking. To bad they were just Cerwin-Vegas:) But they did look fantastic in the garage.


ostie01 10th August 2006 06:07 AM

HI, use only pro stock, paint and clear, nothing else. Auto parts store are good place to buy.

DragonMaster 10th August 2006 04:00 PM

What about painting the chassis with a metal-like car paint and polshing/buffing it?

I saw that someone on the EICO newsgroup got them nickel plated, but I don't think I can afford this. (After paying $200 USD on parts for it)

amt 10th August 2006 04:28 PM

That would be quite easy. Ive gotten very good results with using just spray paint cans. Krylon color and clear can look very good if carefully done. Proper prep, dust-free environment and buffing correctly.

You can also do all the prep work and have a paint shop shoot them. A good trick is to find a custom painter than does motorcycles and leave them there until they can do them with another "full price customer". Ive had many a motorcycle part painted when another customer gets a larger job done and uses a color I can live with. Much of the cost is wrapped up in prep, color mixing and cleanup. If you eliminate those, you can ususally get a deal. Of course you dont know when the work will get done. Its usually a win/win for everyone.


DragonMaster 10th August 2006 04:39 PM

If I do this it means that I should start getting my other HF-12 and HFT-90 in pieces.

poobah 10th August 2006 04:44 PM

Nickel plating is not all that expensive either... avoid the front office... walk into a plating shop and talk to the floor foreman discretely (don't walk in with a handful of parts)... CASH helps.


DragonMaster 10th August 2006 04:55 PM

Just found one store not too far. How much do you think it will/should cost?

Oh, also, I have the brown side panels I'd like to get black. (I tried car paint on the front plates, the result is good.) What should I do, get them power-coated?

One other thing, how do I keep the cooper front plate shiny? (I wouldn't get this one at a polishing place, there's lettering on them)

Will 2000 grit sand paper completely remove the scratches? (I used steel wool when I didn't know I shouldn't a year and an half ago)

poobah 10th August 2006 05:04 PM

If you can swing a "backdoor" deal... maybe 20 - 30 bucks. Through the front door... $150 - 250 for a "lot" charge. Find a plating shop that runs night shift... and go in after 7 or so.

Powder Coating is good... don't expect mirrors though. There is also BLACK nickel plating!

Krylon and some care should work well too.

pinkmouse 10th August 2006 05:58 PM


Originally posted by DragonMaster
Will 2000 grit sand paper completely remove the scratches? (I used steel wool when I didn't know I shouldn't a year and an half ago)
Yes, eventually. Start at 300 and work up.

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