I started with the Norton wet sanding 600 grit paper, but stopped because it's raining... I stopped sanding always in the same direction also. Now, the only thing is that I don't see the 400 scratches anymore, but I see that I sanded in the same direction. (Some areas are darker than others, is it important to remove all this?)
A few months ago, when I disassembled the amp, I used fine steel wool, then 1000 grit to remove the old dust (gummy), so scratches were almost all gone before I started. There are some solder spots that are pretty hard to remove too...
A few months ago, when I disassembled the amp, I used fine steel wool, then 1000 grit to remove the old dust (gummy), so scratches were almost all gone before I started. There are some solder spots that are pretty hard to remove too...
I hope you are using the wet/dry wet. The efficiency and "cut" of the abrasive is 5X better when used with water. The best is with running water and okay is in a bucket. The water carries away the removed metal and keeps the paper from loading up. When doing steel, dry it off immediately after ending a session. I use a heat gun to ensure all the moisture is removed. If the steel alloy is very hard, you may need to do the initial removal with a sander. A small finish sander(random orbital) works fairly well. I use a pheumatic in water so I can avoid dust and speed up the process. Its a bit messy though.
And if you dont have a rubber sanding block, get one. It is the only way to go. It will make your flat surfaces flatter and more uniform and really saves your fingers and hands stress. It also allow you to apply more pressure than you can with your fingers.
In order to ensure all the deep scratches are removed, you can sand perpenticular to the grain of the previous grit. If you dont, its quite hard to see the small scratches you missed when they are parallel with the next finer grit. Just go slowly and look very carefully.
amt
And if you dont have a rubber sanding block, get one. It is the only way to go. It will make your flat surfaces flatter and more uniform and really saves your fingers and hands stress. It also allow you to apply more pressure than you can with your fingers.
In order to ensure all the deep scratches are removed, you can sand perpenticular to the grain of the previous grit. If you dont, its quite hard to see the small scratches you missed when they are parallel with the next finer grit. Just go slowly and look very carefully.
amt
Who doesn't know what WD40 is?
I have one(Well, it's plastic with a rubber pad between the plastic and paper), but the bottom of the chassis has too much corners (Tube sockets for high tubes are placed with an angle, some places are bent)
With the 600 I went circularly(And w/o block). I think I'll go in a straight line with the 800 again, so if I see circular scratches, I should sand that part.
I use a cheap rectangle aluminum plate (The ones you can find in 5 packs made of heavy-duty aluminum paper)
Artist shop
Tri-Art brand Artist paints. Highest level of pigmentation and quality of pigmentation than the restof the industry, by a factor of 2, minimum. That includes any car coatings, or mil-spec, etc. Us the Tri-art 'topcoat', which is based on the same resin for the clearcoat used on BMW's.
How do I know? I sit in the factory, every day.
Tri-Art brand Artist paints. Highest level of pigmentation and quality of pigmentation than the restof the industry, by a factor of 2, minimum. That includes any car coatings, or mil-spec, etc. Us the Tri-art 'topcoat', which is based on the same resin for the clearcoat used on BMW's.
How do I know? I sit in the factory, every day.
If you are in mo-rea-all, check out curry's artist supplies, they carry it. Some absolutely stunning and wicked colors. tansparents, etc. So pigmented and colorful, you have a difficult time resisting the urge to eat it, or just dig your hands into the jar. We have 400L+ batches and the like,and man, it looks just like the most isanely colorful candy you have ever laid eyes on. Some of the colors are so wickedly intense in their pigmentation, that we have a hard time not climbing into the vat and swimming around. They are so strong, they assult your eyeballs. 100% serious on that. We are the ONLY company in the industry that do things to this level. The Tri-art 'true-color' line is the be all - end all of colored coatings.
When you open a can of artist paint, you 'nice color' when you open a jar of Tri-art product you go 'HOLY CRAP'!, because your eyeballs were just slapped with an intensity you have never seen before.
It is water based Acrylic paint.
The BMW clearcoat, or in this case, the Tri-art 'topcoat' is a water based acrylic-urethane. Hard as rock when it dries, at the same time it is very flexable. Takes to polishing very well, just like a BMW.
If to be used on a speaker, thin with 50% clean distilled water, then spray, thin coats, sand between them, etc. That's the topcoat.
For example, you can do wicked things like a metallic red orange flaked, blue on the highlights,and overall..transparent blood red--with a jet black base..and then, the whole thing with a piano finish.... Just mix up some colors. I've done some insane looking stuff with the paint.
As they are water based, they take along time to dry properly, but they don't kill you with outgassing. Experiment first. Warning, not cheap!
When you open a can of artist paint, you 'nice color' when you open a jar of Tri-art product you go 'HOLY CRAP'!, because your eyeballs were just slapped with an intensity you have never seen before.
It is water based Acrylic paint.
The BMW clearcoat, or in this case, the Tri-art 'topcoat' is a water based acrylic-urethane. Hard as rock when it dries, at the same time it is very flexable. Takes to polishing very well, just like a BMW.
If to be used on a speaker, thin with 50% clean distilled water, then spray, thin coats, sand between them, etc. That's the topcoat.
For example, you can do wicked things like a metallic red orange flaked, blue on the highlights,and overall..transparent blood red--with a jet black base..and then, the whole thing with a piano finish.... Just mix up some colors. I've done some insane looking stuff with the paint.
As they are water based, they take along time to dry properly, but they don't kill you with outgassing. Experiment first. Warning, not cheap!
Is there anyone at your company that can make some instructions?
The problem with airbrush is that you need to have the good pressure, angle, paint, gun, temperature, etc. It's the same as spray finally...
(But, what always work is to put very little paint, wait for it to dry, put an other little, etc. You shouldn't try to cover all the surface if you miss a spot. Just do it next time.)
The problem with airbrush is that you need to have the good pressure, angle, paint, gun, temperature, etc. It's the same as spray finally...
(But, what always work is to put very little paint, wait for it to dry, put an other little, etc. You shouldn't try to cover all the surface if you miss a spot. Just do it next time.)
poobah said:
How about this. This is powder coat.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also, if anyone is polishing aluminum give Blue Magic polish a try. It works great as a polish as well as a sealer. I polished a small amp I built over a year ago and it still looks like I just polished it. Great stuff. You can get BM at Wally World for under $5, IIRC.
-Ken
Hey Poobah,
It's a polyester powder from Pendry Coatings. https://www.pendrypowdercoatings.co...d=123&osCsid=4e70283985ddb49c59ac707f99409990
-Ken
It's a polyester powder from Pendry Coatings. https://www.pendrypowdercoatings.co...d=123&osCsid=4e70283985ddb49c59ac707f99409990
-Ken
I went to the plating shop, to learn that I was sanding for nothing, the thing is zinc plated, so they would have to put in an acid bath anyways.
Final solution :
Krylon silver spray, it's not the same metal shade, but I don't want to spend $120 per piece. For the bottom side, I want to paint it to protect it, but it's used as a ground. Do you think I should just put tape on the areas where screws, solders, etc. are and not spray them?
Final solution :
Krylon silver spray, it's not the same metal shade, but I don't want to spend $120 per piece. For the bottom side, I want to paint it to protect it, but it's used as a ground. Do you think I should just put tape on the areas where screws, solders, etc. are and not spray them?
See if you can find Glatex 8, it is a 2 part paint wich cures to high gloss finish in about a day, can be used on metals as well as wood.
I'm currently using some clear glatex 8 on a meranti case... I have never seen such a smooth finish on wood... there is no grain left almost, and I'm only at the 2nd coat... (you need about 4)
I'm currently using some clear glatex 8 on a meranti case... I have never seen such a smooth finish on wood... there is no grain left almost, and I'm only at the 2nd coat... (you need about 4)
Finally, I've just used Krylon 1406 silver metallic spray paint
http://img395.imageshack.us/my.php?image=krylon1406mx0.jpg
no sanding, just sprayed lightly many times. I washed the chassis using dishwashing soap and warm water between the layers. (I didn't wash it before taking the picture of the final layer, hence the little sparkles you see everywhere on the paint.)
Krylon released a newer metallic paint that is smoother and more reflective after I bought the spray can I used on the chassis.
http://img395.imageshack.us/my.php?image=krylon1406mx0.jpg
no sanding, just sprayed lightly many times. I washed the chassis using dishwashing soap and warm water between the layers. (I didn't wash it before taking the picture of the final layer, hence the little sparkles you see everywhere on the paint.)
Krylon released a newer metallic paint that is smoother and more reflective after I bought the spray can I used on the chassis.
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