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Old 31st August 2012, 06:48 PM   #401
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Thanks guys! Good catch on that brush-less motor requirement, i might have overlooked that.

Yes I plan on having a bunch of DIY projects such as coffee table, audio rack, my lamps projects (previous post in this thread) and future stuff.

I figured that mirror finish might be way too much of an effort to do and a good spray job will go a long way. I have also experimented with pour over epoxy and that technique looks promising.

In my future mirror finish projects: ex. speaker I will have a removable/assemblable front baffle. I will paint the baffle and do the pour over epoxy to get the mirror finish. The rest of the speaker doesn't have to be mirror finish for me

The only trick to that technique is when you do the pour over on the front baffle. Can it be done before routing the holes or after. Both ways present problems but I am sure I will figure out the best process



i digress..... lol


The paint booth will be about 5x6ft and there will be small window in it. I plan on getting a peace of plywood board and mounting the fan/s on it and attaching it to the window with some exhaust hoses coming out. The booth will have 2-3 air-conditioning filters on the bottom of the booth for passive air intake. The booth is enclosed by two walls and a ceiling and I will have to worry about only making one more see trough wall and the entrance

So any info on any spray guns?
What does it consit of? (I am a newb) HLVP? I know there is the gun and some compressor?
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Old 31st August 2012, 08:59 PM   #402
evanc is offline evanc  United States
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I use both a turbine HVLP and siphon gun almost daily. I would recommend the turbine driven hvlp for home use. A regular spray gun requires a very large compressor to run properly. There is also less overspray with the turbine gun. I use an accuspray 240k with the pressurized cup. Clean up is super easy and the results are nice. The siphon gun does atomize the paint a little better, but small projects (less then a whole house of millwork) are easy to rub out so any advantage is negated.
I do use both water base and solvent base and can say that solvent based lacquer is by far easier to spray.

homestead finishing has the turbine setup I use Accuspray HVLP Products

I have been liking this solvent based finish lately
ML Campbell

if you are spraying at home and want a water based product I like the pre cat
General Finishes
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Old 31st August 2012, 10:05 PM   #403
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by evanc View Post
I use both a turbine HVLP and siphon gun almost daily. I would recommend the turbine driven hvlp for home use. A regular spray gun requires a very large compressor to run properly. There is also less overspray with the turbine gun. I use an accuspray 240k with the pressurized cup. Clean up is super easy and the results are nice. The siphon gun does atomize the paint a little better, but small projects (less then a whole house of millwork) are easy to rub out so any advantage is negated.
I do use both water base and solvent base and can say that solvent based lacquer is by far easier to spray.

homestead finishing has the turbine setup I use Accuspray HVLP Products

I have been liking this solvent based finish lately
ML Campbell

if you are spraying at home and want a water based product I like the pre cat
General Finishes

Evan - if you like the Magnamax, you might want to give the Water White High Performance a try . It's a pre-cat, so pot life is technically limited to 4months - but it atomizes and sprays like a dream with a siphon or gravity feed pot gun, and in a well ventilated booth I can finish & sand between 3 coats in less than a 8 hour day.

I personally like the 15` dull finish for a more restrained finish
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Last edited by chrisb; 31st August 2012 at 10:05 PM. Reason: spellars
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Old 31st August 2012, 11:07 PM   #404
evanc is offline evanc  United States
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Chris, thanks for the tip. I'm in the middle of a lot of millwork for a house(about a year of work). mostly cherry. I'll give the ww a try when I spray the rest of the 5 gallon I'm working on now, and I move to a new room. I agree on the sheen. The dull finish looks great.
Evan
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Old 1st September 2012, 07:08 AM   #405
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Thanks for the tips guys!
I like the paint/finish recommendations!

The HLVP is rather pricey tho at $1200 :/
I was thinking something more budget oriented for the future
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Old 1st September 2012, 07:30 AM   #406
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by zxgravediggerxz View Post
Thanks for the tips guys!
I like the paint/finish recommendations!

The HLVP is rather pricey tho at $1200 :/
I was thinking something more budget oriented for the future

dirty little secret - I get by quite well with a $40 siphon "pot gun", but the real trick is high volume capacity compressor and dry air - almost nothing will ruin a finish quicker than moisture in the supply


For smaller projects, Mohawk makes a very pre-catalyzed NC lacquer aerosol spray ( M102-0411 for the flat sheen) - no doubt there are other brands as well, but this has been my go-to for small jobs at home rather than the shop, or touch ups - it's surprising how far a $10 (or less in your region) can of this will go.

Pre-Catalyzed Clears - Mohawk Finishing

Keep in mind it's still a VOC propelled NC lacquer, so take the necessary precautions - the active charcoal respirator will cost more than a single can of product, but the MSDS warnings on these types of materials are there for a reason.
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Old 2nd September 2012, 02:39 AM   #407
TheGimp is offline TheGimp  United States
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Originally Posted by sploo View Post
As Rich noted - there is an explosion risk with solvent paints and an unsuitable fan.

I'd personally also be worried about spraying in an enclosed space (even with an exhaust fan) without some form of air feed. Just too much risk of breathing in stuff you really don't want hitting your lungs.

I'd love to set up an indoor spray booth, but wouldn't consider it unless I could get a clean air feed. The problem is that most small compressors I've seen don't have the capacity to run both a gun and an air-fed mask.
Be sure to use a minimum of a canister mask with appropriate canisters if you are shooting anything but water based. I did the paint job on my bike and a car with the gun and used House of Color Urethane Enamel paint. The catalizer is supposed to be really nasty. I shot it outside and used a partial face mask with activated filters double stacked for safety.

A pressurized mask with isolated intake is even better. You don't want the air intake any where the fumes.

If you paint outside, mornings are the best time, and you have to watch for bugs.
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Old 7th September 2012, 04:33 AM   #408
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Originally Posted by TheGimp View Post
Be sure to use a minimum of a canister mask with appropriate canisters if you are shooting anything but water based. I did the paint job on my bike and a car with the gun and used House of Color Urethane Enamel paint. The catalizer is supposed to be really nasty. I shot it outside and used a partial face mask with activated filters double stacked for safety.

A pressurized mask with isolated intake is even better. You don't want the air intake any where the fumes.

If you paint outside, mornings are the best time, and you have to watch for bugs.
I have this type of respirator. Any good?

3M Low-Maintenance Half-Mask Organic Vapor, P95 Respirator Assembly, Medium (R6211)

I haven't been able to smell anything trough it.... so far lol.

I was using this sanding lacquer sealer doing some pieces and it took me maybe an hour of painting/sealing and sometimes some of the smell got trough the cracks maybe and I tried adjusting it and the REAL fumes hit me for a second and OMG, if i didnt have a respirator I would have passed out in 5 min lol
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Old 7th September 2012, 01:56 PM   #409
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It is probably ok for non-catalysed paints. Your best bet is to find the datasheet for the canisters and see what it says they are designed to protect against and for how long.
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Old 7th September 2012, 07:03 PM   #410
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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While not smelling the products being sprayed is a good indication the filters are doing that part of the job, it's only inhalation you're being protected from. There's also the matter of transpiration of the more volatile compounds via contact with open skin and even through clothing. If you really want full body protection, you'd need something like a Tyvek hoodie suit, nitrile gloves and external breathing air supply.

How many folks worrying about this smoke a pack or more a day, and our ride 2 stroke off road bikes on the weekends? In our shop, the count's at least half of the 15 staff.
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