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Old 19th July 2006, 05:52 PM   #31
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Well you want to make sure the compressor can keep up, if you stop mid way to let it build pressure you just screwed up your paint job. So make sure it has the capability to keep up to the CFM of the gun.

The one accessory you can't live without if you're going to be doing painting is an oil/water seperator, there's always condensation build up in the tank and you get all kinds of crap out of it, perfect way to botch an expensive paint job.
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Old 19th July 2006, 06:04 PM   #32
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Compressor: Buy the most powerful, largest tank one that you can afford. Once you have a compressor, all sorts of air tools will catch your fancy. Air sanders, grinders and polishers will use a LOT of air. A big tank helps you run a bit longer before the compressor needs time to catch up. Anything over 3-4 peak horsepower will need 220V though.

Guns:

HVLP is a bit harder to learn to use, but more efficiently applies paint to the surface. More of your finish ends up on the project and less as overspray.

The Finishline3 guns by deVilbiss have a loyal weekend warrior following. I recently bought one but have not had the opportunity to use it. Under $130 at spraygundepot.com with a gun mount regulator.

Gravity feed is good for most non production jobs and wastes less finish than suction feed. Pressure feed is for when you turn pro and have a couple of pianos to paint every day.

The regulator on the gun is a good idea - gives better control of the pressure. Set your tank reg at 80 psi or so, then your gun regulator at the required pressure.

A large regulator/filter at the compressor is a good idea - it will help get the moisture and oil out of the air stream. The only way to really get the air dry is with a desiccant, though.

Use large ID hose, and as little of it as you can - say 25 feet of 3/8"

Do not use quick disconnects with HVLP, they cause a lot of pressure drop. If you must, use just one, and make sure it is a large body HVLP rated disconnect.

Use a filter/desiccant just before your gun mounted regulator. You can buy a "desiccant snake" - a bit of hose with a desiccant fill, but they are expensive. For small jobs like speakers, a $7 cartridge desiccant like those at Harbor freight are fine - and you don't have to kick yourself for forgetting to cap your hose and using up your snake drying the garage.
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Old 19th July 2006, 06:15 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by Few
Anyone have suggestions for brands or features when purchasing a compressor and spray gun useful for projects such as the ones discussed in this thread? The number of options (pressure feed, siphon feed, gravity feed, HVLP...) is a bit bewildering for a newcomer. I'm not likely to turn pro, but I don't want to buy junk either. Any assistance in narrowing my search would be most appreciated.
I gave my oldest son a Husky HVLP gun (of course he had given me a compressor a few years back) and it works beautifully. They are reasonably priced at Home Depot. Make sure you get a decent compressor.
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Old 19th July 2006, 06:37 PM   #34
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For our friends in the UK, this is compressor is an excellent deal and perfect for even large cabinets:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ect-Drive-20hp

And paint4u will have everything you need including a nice range of guns:

http://www.paints4u.com/productsByCa...Subselection=0
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Old 19th July 2006, 09:52 PM   #35
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Somewhat unrelated,

But as the forum would not let me start a new thread, so hope you dont mind me asking,

How does one put a grittex finish on loudspeaker cabinets ?
Can it be done with a roller ? at home ?

Thankyou
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Old 19th July 2006, 11:46 PM   #36
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Bobellis said just about all you need to know. I used Devilbiss guns, a step up from the finish line guns for clears and such. I do have to finish line guns for primers only, I think its a number 3 cap. There is a guy on Ebay, autobody depot I believe, he has excellent prices on his guns.

My compressor is an older Sears model, belt drive. It introduces oil into the system, most of the new ones are diaphram type and do not introduce oil into the air. But they do not have the ouput of mine, everything being the same. The tank on mine is 32 gallon, but I have a 60 gallon tank along with it. I bought a used one for my wifes garage, just like mine but with a smaller tank $75 was a good deal.

The compressor will be rated for output at normally to ranges X scfm @ 90 psi and X scfm @ 45. My JGA gun requires 23psi at the gun for 10 psi @ the cap and uses 13.5 scfm if I remember correctly, the primer guns use the same inputs but less scfm, around 9.

The more compressor you can afford the better, a 5HP drive is perfect for the home use but I know folks that get by very well in the lower ranges.

The gun really depends on the type of paint/material you are using. Heavy paints need a larger orifice, lighter paint, smaller.

Here is a tickler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeVIL...09042148QQrdZ1

I prefer the aluminium cups to the plastic, they are far more durable and the chemicals do not attack them. If all yopu plan on doing is speakers, then a touch up/panel gun is what you may want.

Since oil and water are a problem with compressors, I use a dedicated hose for painting. I do have quick connects on mine, but not all quick connects are the same. If you buy the one at Harbor Freight or simular stores, you get a large restriction in air flow.

I was try to bust a nut on a pinion gear once and the impact couldn't budge it. It had done this many times before. Thinking the gun was worn out, I bought another, just to have the same results. Swapped the quick connects (Harbor Freights) to some I knew were superior and the nut spun of on the first kick. So I had a new impact I didn't need. Look at the orifice size of the quick connect, you'll see.

An oil/water seperator is a good thing, but there are ways to get around one. Lots of typing here, if you are interested, post again. Right now I need to mow my jungle.
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Old 20th July 2006, 01:43 PM   #37
Few is offline Few  United States
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Thanks for all the very useful replies. Clearly I have some research to do before taking the plunge, but I feel much better informed. In addition to the basic information on types of guns to look for, tips like avoiding disconnects with undersized orifices are very useful---and hard to pick up by doing web searches. Now I just have to figure out how much I should expect to pay to get set up. A quick look suggests it's not going to be cheap! Thanks again for all the information.

Few
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Old 23rd July 2006, 04:07 AM   #38
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Question Wagner or Spray Cans?

First off, thanks to ShinOBIWAN and the other posters for their insights and advice. I'm inspired.

I want to finish a pair of homemade DECWARE High Definition Towers in glossy black, like ShinOBIWAN's original post. I don't have a HVLP gun nor air compressor, and can't justify buying either for a one-time project. A friend owns a Wagner hand-held spray painter, which I know is far from professional. As I understand it, the Wagner doesn't allow any fine tuning to control the atomization or pressure. Which would you recommend: using spray cans or the Wagner?
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Old 23rd July 2006, 05:25 AM   #39
Luke is offline Luke  New Zealand
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Nice work!
So for a good gloss finish I would need black gloss enamel and for an ultra gloss mix in some clearcoat, is this right?
If so how much clearcoat do i put in the black enamel paint?

thanks Arthur
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Old 23rd July 2006, 09:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by Luke
Nice work!
So for a good gloss finish I would need black gloss enamel and for an ultra gloss mix in some clearcoat, is this right?
If so how much clearcoat do i put in the black enamel paint?

thanks Arthur
Thanks,

The black basecoat and the clearcoats aren't mixed, they are sprayed on seperately - first the black, then the clearcoat and afterwards you do the rubbing down and gloss work.
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