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Old 17th July 2006, 06:49 PM   #21
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Shin,

I decided I wanted to try out your technique, so I went out today and made a couple of purchases. But, I'm a little confused about timing and how long to wait between steps.

I bought a spraycan of Benjamin Moore Utilac High Gloss. My understanding (which is basically never painting anything before) is the laquor is harder and less time is needed between sanding and adding the rubbing compound. I was told at the Benjamin Moore store that I should wait about 2 weeks after sanding to start putting on the rubbing compound, while at Highland Hardware they said around 72 hours.

So how long between step painting and the first layer of rubbing compound?
How long between layers of rubbing compound?
How long between rubbing compound and the polish?

Thanks,

Josh
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Old 17th July 2006, 06:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by edjosh23
Shin,

I decided I wanted to try out your technique, so I went out today and made a couple of purchases. But, I'm a little confused about timing and how long to wait between steps.

I bought a spraycan of Benjamin Moore Utilac High Gloss. My understanding (which is basically never painting anything before) is the laquor is harder and less time is needed between sanding and adding the rubbing compound. I was told at the Benjamin Moore store that I should wait about 2 weeks after sanding to start putting on the rubbing compound, while at Highland Hardware they said around 72 hours.

So how long between step painting and the first layer of rubbing compound?
How long between layers of rubbing compound?
How long between rubbing compound and the polish?

Thanks,

Josh
Hi Josh,

All paints are have different drying time requirements, sometimes this is significant and sometimes virtually identical. Certain types of paint like to be baked other need IR lamps and most are air dried. The best thing to do is follow the directions on the tin. Since your using laquer out of a can then give it at least 2 weeks to harden and shrink before sanding.

Once you've done your sanding then then you can apply the compound, polish and wax straight afterwards, there isn't a waiting time between any of the steps I've shown in this thread. The only wait is between spraying coats and the time you need to leave the laquer before starting to work it.
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Old 17th July 2006, 07:27 PM   #23
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If using a clear coat on top of the base coat, is one supposed to sand between the last base coat and the first clear?
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Old 17th July 2006, 07:29 PM   #24
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Shin,

I'm not sure if this is a laquer, it just says High Gloss Enamel.
On the tin it says dries to touch in 15min and dries to use in 1 hour.

Thanks,

Josh
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Old 17th July 2006, 07:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by 454Casull
If using a clear coat on top of the base coat, is one supposed to sand between the last base coat and the first clear?
If the base coat is a pearl or metalflake, do not sand, as you will expose the flake surfaces and cause irregularities in the finish.

If the base coat is a solid color, I'd go ahead and sand it to 320 if using a consumer level spray gun or spray can.
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Old 17th July 2006, 08:02 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by edjosh23
Shin,

I'm not sure if this is a laquer, it just says High Gloss Enamel.
On the tin it says dries to touch in 15min and dries to use in 1 hour.

Thanks,

Josh
Enamel would suggest a hardwearing surface, I really don't know without spraying some of it. Is it definitely a clearcoat and not high gloss black enamel? If its clear coat then I say it should be fine.

I'd ignore that about it being dry within one hour. With single stage finishes such as those from spraycans you need to let the paint harden and shring back so its completely stable before you start working on it.
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Old 17th July 2006, 08:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by 454Casull
If using a clear coat on top of the base coat, is one supposed to sand between the last base coat and the first clear?
All the gloss comes from the clearcoat, you don't have to worry too much about orange peel on your base - what I'm saying is you won't see the orange peel on a solid colour basecoat once the clear is applied. Use discretion though and aim to really minimise it, if it doesn't seem right then sand and then spray a final light coat. So my recommendation would be to have a very good(near perfect) primed surface that you've sanded flat then carefully spray the base(just enough to get coverage) without sanding, then lots of clearcoat and wait for that to harden and then flat out the clearcoat. That's pretty much how I work.

A lot really depends on the primer stage, you really need this to be spot on with MDF and wood. Apply lots in a consistent fashion and sand with 400grit every few coats. I'd say I use around 15+ coats of primer but its absolutely essentially on wood. The primer is the foundation of the whole paint job, so its arguably more important that the clear and basecoats.
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Old 18th July 2006, 06:03 PM   #28
sqlkev is offline sqlkev  United States
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Sorry if i miss this, shin, but what was the type/name of the primer and base coat that you use? How did you apply the primer if it wasn't from a can? spray?
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Old 18th July 2006, 07:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by sqlkev
Sorry if i miss this, shin, but what was the type/name of the primer and base coat that you use? How did you apply the primer if it wasn't from a can? spray?
Hi Kev

The basecoats, pearls and clearcoats I use are from a UK company called Cambridgeshire Coatings and the paint line is called Rage:

http://www.rage-extreme.com/

The grey primer is just standard cheapish stuff from a company called Tetrosyl.
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Old 19th July 2006, 06:35 PM   #30
Few is offline Few  United States
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Anyone have suggestions for brands or features when purchasing a compressor and spray gun useful for projects such as the ones discussed in this thread? The number of options (pressure feed, siphon feed, gravity feed, HVLP...) is a bit bewildering for a newcomer. I'm not likely to turn pro, but I don't want to buy junk either. Any assistance in narrowing my search would be most appreciated.
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