Daniel - FWIW the enclosures in first photo Dave posted above were Walnut veneer and recycled old growth VG "Douglas-fir" flooring material, and before Dave pipes in with the correction, yes it's technically a Pine, but certainly different enough in many characteristics.
As I recall, it was rather a bit of fun trying to work around some of the original nail holes.
And as Paul notes, one can use any combinations of species and finishing that strikes their fancy - Hell, I know my tastes have changed more than once in that regard over the last 15yrs
As I recall, it was rather a bit of fun trying to work around some of the original nail holes.
And as Paul notes, one can use any combinations of species and finishing that strikes their fancy - Hell, I know my tastes have changed more than once in that regard over the last 15yrs
Chris, Paul--absolutely, and heavens know you two have a trillion times my woodworking experience and skill (my goodness, Paul, beautiful work on your site), don't want to discount this, and hope my points are taken from a "having a beer at the pub" level of conversation. 
It just seems the OP is trying to over-constrain his design choices with lumber cost versus playing with aesthetics for their own sake. Admittedly expensive, the walnut cost for the edges versus the time invested in the construction and lifetime of the cabinet use suggests one should really go for the look one hopes for right away. Being dissatisfied with the look would be far far worse than the incremental cost. Just trying to be mindful of that.
Furthermore, while I think you guys did a great job making the tops/bottoms with fir, having walnut "windows" with pine "panes" (aka the fascias as walnut with accent wood solely in the round-overs) doesn't have the same aesthetic as your walnut horizontal wrap with fir T/B or marquetry/inlay corners.
Perhaps a maple or lighter-colored solid solid baffle (say 12mm bonded to 12mm ply behind it stepped back to allow the sides to cover the plywood) with the roundover wholly in the solid front fascia and using the veneered walnut for the sides and top could be rather fetching?
It just seems the OP is trying to over-constrain his design choices with lumber cost versus playing with aesthetics for their own sake. Admittedly expensive, the walnut cost for the edges versus the time invested in the construction and lifetime of the cabinet use suggests one should really go for the look one hopes for right away. Being dissatisfied with the look would be far far worse than the incremental cost. Just trying to be mindful of that.
Furthermore, while I think you guys did a great job making the tops/bottoms with fir, having walnut "windows" with pine "panes" (aka the fascias as walnut with accent wood solely in the round-overs) doesn't have the same aesthetic as your walnut horizontal wrap with fir T/B or marquetry/inlay corners.
Perhaps a maple or lighter-colored solid solid baffle (say 12mm bonded to 12mm ply behind it stepped back to allow the sides to cover the plywood) with the roundover wholly in the solid front fascia and using the veneered walnut for the sides and top could be rather fetching?
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Joel in such a narrow box maybe 7" it will likely keep fine.The time of year and moisture content in the solid wood at the time of assembly will determine the direction of pull or push across the grain of the solid.
Here in our northern climate seasoned indoor wood will run somewhere between 5%_ 12% seasonally. You can greatly reduce the stress by using quartered rifted sawen wood, old growth even reclaimed as the movement iss usually less.
You choose yourself wether its a accetable cross grain glue up or to long of a joint. Only time will tell how it lasts
Here in our northern climate seasoned indoor wood will run somewhere between 5%_ 12% seasonally. You can greatly reduce the stress by using quartered rifted sawen wood, old growth even reclaimed as the movement iss usually less.
You choose yourself wether its a accetable cross grain glue up or to long of a joint. Only time will tell how it lasts
The more freedom to detail edges can also be acheived with a more relaxed stress free joinery. This can be achived by gluing 3/4" square stock around the sub strait bb ply. Level the joints careful not to roll the edges then add a (thicker preferable) veneer . If you are careful to select color and orient grain direction the transition can be fairly seamless.
A simple router jig base can be made for most of the leveling if preferred.
You will still be able to make the baffle a little larger than the box to planed or sand latter.
A simple router jig base can be made for most of the leveling if preferred.
You will still be able to make the baffle a little larger than the box to planed or sand latter.
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Thanks! The shop is the triple car garage
- need to figure out best way to heat it.- Status
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