Of course they do, because no one method is the best. But there is still a lot of good advice in the thread.
My 2 cents: I build a few things out of MDF and find that screws just don't hold very well. Kreg pocket screws do OK, maybe because of the thread shape and angle. With regular screws, a small pilot hole has helped me reduce the thread stripping.
For me, clamps work better on MDF, but screws are OK if done right. Practice on some scraps first, would be my advice.
For a first-timer it is very easy to work with. Just go ahead and use MDF and enjoy the experience.
Regards,
Dan
My first few speaker cabinets were screwed with bracing.
They were very strong and did the job.
More recently I got into folded horn speakers and found gluing to be better.
With glue you don't need the internal bracing and so have a larger internal volume.
Also the folded horns would have needed quite complex bracing due to having so many panels.
I have always covered my cabinets in thin carpet. Its a hard wearing surface but also means the woodwork doesn't need so much finishing off.
It hides screw holes and any misalignments of the wood.
They were very strong and did the job.
More recently I got into folded horn speakers and found gluing to be better.
With glue you don't need the internal bracing and so have a larger internal volume.
Also the folded horns would have needed quite complex bracing due to having so many panels.
I have always covered my cabinets in thin carpet. Its a hard wearing surface but also means the woodwork doesn't need so much finishing off.
It hides screw holes and any misalignments of the wood.
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Dunno if it’s been brought up, but this will save one a lot of grief for a first time effort.
DEWALT DW2569 Style#10 Countersink with 3/16-Inch Drill Bit - Step Drill Bits - Amazon.com
I always follow up with a bead of bathtub silicone around the inner seams too.
DEWALT DW2569 Style#10 Countersink with 3/16-Inch Drill Bit - Step Drill Bits - Amazon.com
I always follow up with a bead of bathtub silicone around the inner seams too.
Boy that countersink bit is pricey!!! I got a set of 4 from home depot for something like $10.
But it does point out that with screws, 2 drills are needed. One for the countersink bit and one for the screwdriver bit. I recommended robertson heads (square) to minimize stripping the head.
dave
But it does point out that with screws, 2 drills are needed. One for the countersink bit and one for the screwdriver bit. I recommended robertson heads (square) to minimize stripping the head.
dave
I went with #8 tapered wood screws with a 1/2" threadless neck and I'm doing a 1/4" countersink. All the cuts are done and one cabinet is drying now with the back sides and top on. So far, so good.
I would have got a little more done, but good God I didn't expect that amount of powdered sawdust. I spent at least 2-3 hrs cleaning up the sawdust. It went absolutely everywhere, a coating on everything in the garage. I expect sawdust, but this was more like an exploding 50Lb bag of yellow flour.
Next time I cut MDF; I'm grabbing my generator and cutting it in an open field somewhere
I would have got a little more done, but good God I didn't expect that amount of powdered sawdust. I spent at least 2-3 hrs cleaning up the sawdust. It went absolutely everywhere, a coating on everything in the garage. I expect sawdust, but this was more like an exploding 50Lb bag of yellow flour.
Next time I cut MDF; I'm grabbing my generator and cutting it in an open field somewhere
Ohh yeah, the drivers are scheduled for delivery tomorrow. MLK day, so no work, should be able to finish the glue construction at least; unless I find more sawdust to clean up
One tip for other rookies who may read this, get goggles, my eyes are killing me. I had ear protection and breathing protection, but just regular safety glasses. The sawdust is so fine that is just floats and the safety glasses are almost useless, goggles are the way to go.
One tip for other rookies who may read this, get goggles, my eyes are killing me. I had ear protection and breathing protection, but just regular safety glasses. The sawdust is so fine that is just floats and the safety glasses are almost useless, goggles are the way to go.
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Ah... Reminiscent of the good old days when we didn't have to bother with such demanding irrelevancies
Robert - don't cut or route MDF outdoors except on a completely windless day - that talcum powder thick dust gets everywhere - check your socks.
The particle board screws that pj mentioned are probably similar to what we call Lo-Roots here. They are not tapered - which honestly doesn't grip all that well in MDF or PB. There's a reason they (Lo-Roots) are used in commercial trades. Note that the thread is thicker than the shaft for much better holding capacity, and many have a split point for self-tapping if pilot holes are not deep enough. Also, many of the flat-head types have nibbed heads that aid in counter-sinking - just don't try to back them out!
If not too late for this project, I'd definitely reconsider that part. If not, if there's a next time?
Drywall screws may have similarly coarse thread, but all those I've ever used are far too brittle - and when they snap off, you're kind pooched.
The particle board screws that pj mentioned are probably similar to what we call Lo-Roots here. They are not tapered - which honestly doesn't grip all that well in MDF or PB. There's a reason they (Lo-Roots) are used in commercial trades. Note that the thread is thicker than the shaft for much better holding capacity, and many have a split point for self-tapping if pilot holes are not deep enough. Also, many of the flat-head types have nibbed heads that aid in counter-sinking - just don't try to back them out!
If not too late for this project, I'd definitely reconsider that part. If not, if there's a next time?
Drywall screws may have similarly coarse thread, but all those I've ever used are far too brittle - and when they snap off, you're kind pooched.
MDF, screws, BB laminate
Hi - just been there recently with my first 'serious' build. I used 15mm MDF though 'skinned' this with 6mm Baltic birch (could use 3mm) (I did add 18mm BB for front panels). Baltic birch look - cost close to solid MDF and veneer (which is not cheap), the thicker skin hides imperfections that veneer would not & it's really easy to finish (acrylic varnish). Screw and glue, no probs - and yes the screws to some extent make up for a lack of clamps. I also doweled the main joins (all butt join). Make sure the screw is not gripping into outer piece of wood, so the gripping action below is really pulling the 2 together. (my BB skin is just glued, so clean exterior) when you have thinner MDF to screw into, like speakers into baffles where you may have chamfered the interior, you can drill a much bigger hole centred on the screw location and glue in a dowel to screw into. Another way to firm up localised bits of MDF if necessary is so soak in some extra-thin superglue - you can get this quite cheaply in bulk (hobby king?).
MDF sound? - well lots of serious builders have no probs with it, and lots of very expensive and very good speakers are made with it. I understand Audio Note say only BB is any good, though I also understand even their older cabs had MDF or even chipboard(??) sides...
Hi - just been there recently with my first 'serious' build. I used 15mm MDF though 'skinned' this with 6mm Baltic birch (could use 3mm) (I did add 18mm BB for front panels). Baltic birch look - cost close to solid MDF and veneer (which is not cheap), the thicker skin hides imperfections that veneer would not & it's really easy to finish (acrylic varnish). Screw and glue, no probs - and yes the screws to some extent make up for a lack of clamps. I also doweled the main joins (all butt join). Make sure the screw is not gripping into outer piece of wood, so the gripping action below is really pulling the 2 together. (my BB skin is just glued, so clean exterior) when you have thinner MDF to screw into, like speakers into baffles where you may have chamfered the interior, you can drill a much bigger hole centred on the screw location and glue in a dowel to screw into. Another way to firm up localised bits of MDF if necessary is so soak in some extra-thin superglue - you can get this quite cheaply in bulk (hobby king?).
MDF sound? - well lots of serious builders have no probs with it, and lots of very expensive and very good speakers are made with it. I understand Audio Note say only BB is any good, though I also understand even their older cabs had MDF or even chipboard(??) sides...
scott - I'd be inclined to agree with you there. The late Terry Cain, whose primary profession was as commercial millworker and would have had access to all types of sheet good materials, did exactly that with his Abby: solid wood baffle and supra-baffles (mostly Alder, IIRC), veneered plywood sides and, at least in the couple of pairs I ran into back in the early 2000's, particle board back panels .
AFAIC, MDF's singular advantage over the other materials named is its superior machining capabilities, and with the appropriate prep work, acceptance of paint finish.
AFAIC, MDF's singular advantage over the other materials named is its superior machining capabilities, and with the appropriate prep work, acceptance of paint finish.
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