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Screw & Glue Vs. Clamping?
Screw & Glue Vs. Clamping?
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Old 13th January 2018, 12:25 AM   #11
planet10 is online now planet10  Canada
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Screw & Glue Vs. Clamping?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
Really? One could be disappointed with the sound, primarily because MDF was used?
Certainly, if the box is not quiet…

dave
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Old 13th January 2018, 12:27 AM   #12
almstsobur is offline almstsobur  United States
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Thanks for the tip on the Miter'ing. Honestly fellas, I'm not too concerned at all about appearance (right now). These are going in my listening room and if I get any WAF grief I will show her the door; she has the whole rest of the house. The sound is my first and almost only concern.

Dave, I am building statement ii's with a different tweeter, never been a fan of ribbons personally. Speaker Design Works So yeah, looks like 3 sheets of 3/4" MDf and 2 sheets of 1/4" birch for the baffle.
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Old 13th January 2018, 12:55 AM   #13
almstsobur is offline almstsobur  United States
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Since this first build will be MDF, no one has any objections to screws in place of clamps, correct? Stay away from edges, corners, pilot drill first, be careful, otherwise okay? No acoustics objections to screws? I think that's what I'm hearing.

Last question, what's the recommendation in spacing for the screws, keeping in mind I won't be using clamps while the glue dries. 4"? 6" 8"?
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Old 13th January 2018, 01:04 AM   #14
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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I used neither screws nor clamps, I just weighted the joints, had to be patient, couldn't do it all in one go. Advantages are, easier to get precise alignment and no chance of forcing out too much glue
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Old 13th January 2018, 01:53 AM   #15
Joel Wesseling is offline Joel Wesseling  Canada
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8" spacing should be sufficient, unless you notice bulging between screws. Best if you clamp the wood to hold alignment, then drill pilot holes and re-clamp to hold alignment again, while you install the screws.
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Old 13th January 2018, 02:09 AM   #16
Joel Wesseling is offline Joel Wesseling  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Certainly, if the box is not quiet…

dave
Dave,have you tried concrete? I've wanted to try it for decades. But then I haven't really noticed(subjectively) a difference between MDF vs Baltic Birch.

These guys used Stone and then added an angled board internally(measurement supported) to damp a resonance.

http://www.kirchner-elektronik.de/up...evelopment.pdf
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Old 13th January 2018, 07:48 AM   #17
planet10 is online now planet10  Canada
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Screw & Glue Vs. Clamping?
Quote:
Originally Posted by almstsobur View Post
I am building statement ii's with a different tweeter, never been a fan of ribbons personally. Speaker Design Works So yeah, looks like 3 sheets of 3/4" MDf and 2 sheets of 1/4" birch for the baffle.
Which tweeter? Have you got a plan for modifiying the XO? We have had the mids thru here (they can be used as a small FR), they are nice.

With the significnt budget for drivers and all th elabour involved are you sure using MDF instead of ply is really a significant cost savings relative to the entire budget. Also keep in mind that 15mm quality ply (we use Murphy Ply), will give a stouter build than ¾” MDF. And your back will really thank you.

With a box this big i would have expected more bracing.

dave
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Old 13th January 2018, 08:10 AM   #18
almstsobur is offline almstsobur  United States
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Dave, if I wasn't a complete rookie at the woodworking part I would have done something besides MDF, but I'm about a mile from Lowe's to grab another sheet when I inevitably screw up. I can pretty much repair anything electronic, but woodworking is very new to me. That's also why I went with this Statement ii build, everything is a square or rectangle, keeping this first one nice and simple.

As for the tweeter, I went with the SATORI TW29RN, I've heard nothing but good about it and it's a lot more "my type" of tweeter. I used WinPCD for the crossover design and the original crossover looked quite good on the TW29RN-B. I made some minor tweaks and ordered the components for the default Xover and for the one with my changes, I'll tinker and see what sounds best. I also have the option of going active if need be, I have a few minidsp units including a 2x8 I'm not currently using. I've never done a full active Xover, but that's another reason to avoid the ribbon, IMO.

Last edited by almstsobur; 13th January 2018 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 13th January 2018, 08:20 AM   #19
Keruskerfuerst is offline Keruskerfuerst  Germany
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You should glue MDF and use wood dowels.
And you should use two layers of MDF glued together.
Or birch multiplex.
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Old 13th January 2018, 08:23 AM   #20
almstsobur is offline almstsobur  United States
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The front is multilayer glued, 1-1/4" total thickness, the rest is all 3/4". You think the whole box needs to be multilayered? I'll need a crane to move them I think that 3/4" MDF comes in somewhere around 90lbs a sheet.

Last edited by almstsobur; 13th January 2018 at 08:26 AM.
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