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Reusing old chassis -filling holes on frontplate
Reusing old chassis -filling holes on frontplate
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Old 18th December 2017, 08:19 PM   #1
diy1995 is offline diy1995
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Default Reusing old chassis -filling holes on frontplate

Hello,
I`m reusing the cassis of old tape deck for my DIY STK442-090 amplifier.
I must fill the holes on the frontplate. I must fill everything (including big hole) except the hole for existing power switch and holes for pots (I cleaned them and they work like new).
20171218_221145.jpg

I`m thinking of getting pieces of metal welded into the holes and then applying the putty over it.

Was anyone doing this before, is this the way to go or do you know any other opions?

Thank you

Last edited by diy1995; 18th December 2017 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 18th December 2017, 08:30 PM   #2
kaputt is offline kaputt  Germany
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Weld the holes shut and grind flat.
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Old 18th December 2017, 09:22 PM   #3
Buckapound is offline Buckapound  United States
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It's a little hard to say without seeing what you are doing, but I would consider getting a nice new piece of anodized aluminum perhaps 1mm or 2mm thick and fit it right on top of the old one. The switches going through the new and old plate will hold it in place, although you could also add some decorative hex socket head screws in the corners.

Welding pieces into the holes has a large chance of making the metal distorted (warped), and then you have the problem of putting a nice finish on it, which is actually a lot more difficult than it might seem.

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Old 18th December 2017, 09:30 PM   #4
john blackburn is offline john blackburn  United Kingdom
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edit Buckapound beat me to it

Or have some thin metal cut to cover the entire front, mark through the needed holes and replicate them before "reskinning" the front with some pretty bolts to fix it in place.

Or mount smoked perspex behind the hole and fit some led VU meters there.
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Old 18th December 2017, 09:35 PM   #5
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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Why metal? How about a piece of thin ply with a nice veneer, or a piece of perspex or acrylic
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Old 18th December 2017, 11:37 PM   #6
PJN is offline PJN  United States
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I did a very similar thing, converted an old marantz amp chassis to a SKA amp. I used a thin piece of aluminum from home Depot to cover the original front piece. Looks ok. Another alternative is to totally replace the front piece with a new one. Let's you have more freedom in design. Either way repurposing an old chassis is a great way to go.

Paul
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Old 18th December 2017, 11:58 PM   #7
Andrewbee is offline Andrewbee  Jamaica
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What was said before, "skin" it with new material or take some masking tape and cover one side of the hole and fill the hole with epoxy. I am partial to JB weld but even one of those 5 minute epoxy jobs will work. Crown the epoxy so that you can sand it flush. Works fine for me.


Andrew
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Old 19th December 2017, 12:23 AM   #8
PRR is offline PRR  United States
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Don't shoot a dark chassis with an all-white monitor behind it. People are missing the fact that you can not fill a *cassette door* with a smear of JBWeld.

Door kick plates. Cover the whole center section with antique brass, or cheap aluminium you can paint black.
Door Kick Plates - Door Accessories - The Home Depot
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Last edited by PRR; 19th December 2017 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 19th December 2017, 11:01 AM   #9
diy1995 is offline diy1995
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Yes, I was thinking about putting new piece of aluminium over the existing frontplate. But than I would need someone with cnc or something to cut rectangular holes for potentiometers and power switch if I want them to look nice or I will replace power switch and potentiometers with round ones, but I would realy like to keep them

Last edited by diy1995; 19th December 2017 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 19th December 2017, 09:01 PM   #10
chrisb is offline chrisb
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I quite like black ABS sheets - they're plenty soft enough to drill holes and file out rectangular openings with small hobby files - but of course that lends them to the risk of scratching and marring once in use.

The thin metal kick plates that PRR suggests would certainly give you nice metal look, but they'd have their own challenges in machining holes without deforming the material. Slightly thicker (up to 3mm) aluminum plates probably have an advantage there, and are still fairly easy to work by hand. Once completed, wet sand down to about 400G and finish with either clear or colored top coat.
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