Having built a few of these, I'll describe my practice.
I use only close to architectural grade maple faced BB plywood, so the back panel and inside of mouth on both side panels can be clear coated or painted before assembly - at least with a seal coat. If using MDF or particle board (which I personally avoid except for jigs), then yes, you'd want to pre-veneer those parts first. If that's the case, you'll need almost double the amount of veneer to complete the pair, and I wouldn't want to rely on butt joints of lateral panels to the sides - I'd screw from the outside, and fill, then post veneer after case fully assembled.
If sides and back panels are prefinished, when gluing up, wipe off any visible seepage with a wet then dry rag after clamps are set. The second side is a bit trickier, as there's not a lot of room (140mm /5.5" in the case of the FH3).
Due to the curved side panels, the yield isn't great. I happen to like to align any figuring to follow the 5dg tilt of the front panel, as well as to wrap the pattern contiguously around the enclosure, mirror image the two cabinets, and center the figuring on front panels. As the flitches on book or slip-matched veneer can vary in width from sheet to sheet, this layout can take some time, and I've always had to dedicate a full 4x8 sheet per pair for either the FH3 or XLs. Most of the engineered / reconstituted veneers I've used have a much tighter grain or pattern figuring -close to rift / quarter cut, so the waste is slightly lower.
I assume you don't need any instruction / advice on the actual veneering part, but I use the iron-on yellow glue method.
I use only close to architectural grade maple faced BB plywood, so the back panel and inside of mouth on both side panels can be clear coated or painted before assembly - at least with a seal coat. If using MDF or particle board (which I personally avoid except for jigs), then yes, you'd want to pre-veneer those parts first. If that's the case, you'll need almost double the amount of veneer to complete the pair, and I wouldn't want to rely on butt joints of lateral panels to the sides - I'd screw from the outside, and fill, then post veneer after case fully assembled.
If sides and back panels are prefinished, when gluing up, wipe off any visible seepage with a wet then dry rag after clamps are set. The second side is a bit trickier, as there's not a lot of room (140mm /5.5" in the case of the FH3).
Due to the curved side panels, the yield isn't great. I happen to like to align any figuring to follow the 5dg tilt of the front panel, as well as to wrap the pattern contiguously around the enclosure, mirror image the two cabinets, and center the figuring on front panels. As the flitches on book or slip-matched veneer can vary in width from sheet to sheet, this layout can take some time, and I've always had to dedicate a full 4x8 sheet per pair for either the FH3 or XLs. Most of the engineered / reconstituted veneers I've used have a much tighter grain or pattern figuring -close to rift / quarter cut, so the waste is slightly lower.
I assume you don't need any instruction / advice on the actual veneering part, but I use the iron-on yellow glue method.
Doug - if not too late a few photos of veneering of FH3 from one of the few times I slow down enough to pick up the camera. As is clear, the curved side panels through a monkey wrench into efficient break out, but I've found this layout works pretty well for a wide range of grain figuring.
Note that I don't worry about scorching with the iron - in fact with some practice, the nose of the iron can be helpful in starting the trimming out of rebated openings for drivers such as Alpairs.
This pair went to Cal Weldon - veneer was flat sliced red oak, with Watco Fruitwood stain and satin finishing wax, and the rear mouth openings sprayed with textured paint and varathane clear top coat. Those are waterborne products that take a few light coats and lots of drying time to fully cure.
Note that I don't worry about scorching with the iron - in fact with some practice, the nose of the iron can be helpful in starting the trimming out of rebated openings for drivers such as Alpairs.
This pair went to Cal Weldon - veneer was flat sliced red oak, with Watco Fruitwood stain and satin finishing wax, and the rear mouth openings sprayed with textured paint and varathane clear top coat. Those are waterborne products that take a few light coats and lots of drying time to fully cure.
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Doug - +1 to Dave's sentiment. If you have sufficient power, the Alpair would be my recommendation. Baffles take a bit more time than with the Fostex, as the Alpair's thick bezel requires rebating for flush mounting, and chamfering of rear side of driver hole needs to be scalloped around the 4 screw mounting locations.
The sapele should look gorgeous - if you have the option, I'd go for the copper / gold colored Alpair cones.
The sapele should look gorgeous - if you have the option, I'd go for the copper / gold colored Alpair cones.
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