I have multi layered hardwood plywood that was covered in a melamine type veneer surface, similar to what you might see on cupboards and countertops. The plywood is really good stuff, I'll bet expensive too. Its very rigid and I'd like to use it on a sealed sub cab I'm right in the middle of building.
I managed to peel that crappy layer off but residue from the adhesive stayed behind.
I need carpenter's glue to adhere in order to have piece of mind while turning 3/4" thickness into 1 1/2". I imagine it will gum sand paper up in a hurry, whats the best approach to get back to a sandable surface?
I forgot to add, one side is still raw finish grade wood veneer, and can be glued or finished. I suppose I could glue that side and have a strong reliable box. But it would limit finishishing options on the outer side. Ultimately I will take that route but rather have it look nice as well as perform.
I managed to peel that crappy layer off but residue from the adhesive stayed behind.
I need carpenter's glue to adhere in order to have piece of mind while turning 3/4" thickness into 1 1/2". I imagine it will gum sand paper up in a hurry, whats the best approach to get back to a sandable surface?
I forgot to add, one side is still raw finish grade wood veneer, and can be glued or finished. I suppose I could glue that side and have a strong reliable box. But it would limit finishishing options on the outer side. Ultimately I will take that route but rather have it look nice as well as perform.
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Heres what Im doing, next to skin the birch with the harder ply, each corner will have 3 90 joints stepped overlaps plus quarter round inner side, every step gets clamped then screwed down. Do you prefer rf for bonding or glue? I use the construction grade lepages. I always used glue and never had a leaker, so kept going with that. All 6 sides will be doubled up plus braces, if anything will be heavy when its done.
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Or nail polish remover when your wife's not looking
Guity.
It will be an acoustic suspension box, the goal is not so much as a pinhole leak or wall movement to scavenge as much energy as possible Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm
It could be a matter of glue good control, some people are naturally messy with glue.
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I like the bass produced in lossy boxes, so had thought about trying some kind of a lossy subwoofer cabinet, only for a minute or two. Then went the complete other direction.
I found some heavy steel anchor rigging with stainless poly nuts.
I will test this subs in room acoustics if I like it enough I will build a match for stereo.
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I like the bass produced in lossy boxes, so had thought about trying some kind of a lossy subwoofer cabinet, only for a minute or two. Then went the complete other direction.
I found some heavy steel anchor rigging with stainless poly nuts.
I will test this subs in room acoustics if I like it enough I will build a match for stereo.
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I haven't been active on build but once I got back I made hardwood bracing that's plenty strong.
I have another question before proceeding further. I'd like to skin this sub with solid black walnut instead not only for its strength, more for appearance it looks great. Lack of experience has me wondering whether or not its a good idea.
Is there high probability of cracking?
I have another question before proceeding further. I'd like to skin this sub with solid black walnut instead not only for its strength, more for appearance it looks great. Lack of experience has me wondering whether or not its a good idea.
Is there high probability of cracking?
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Gluing the end-grain of those braces is going to be a weak point. I'd place another piece of timber next to them glued to the plywood and the ends of the braces (like your corner beads). That way you're gluing to side-grain.
For the skin, do you mean a single black walnut plank, or multiple black walnut boards, or a black walnut veneer?
The first two are going to move with humidity changes. The plank very well might crack, as might the boards if they're butt-jointed. Tongue and groove boards would be fine, but that's a very different look. Real black walnut veneer is probably the best option.
For the skin, do you mean a single black walnut plank, or multiple black walnut boards, or a black walnut veneer?
The first two are going to move with humidity changes. The plank very well might crack, as might the boards if they're butt-jointed. Tongue and groove boards would be fine, but that's a very different look. Real black walnut veneer is probably the best option.
I didn't want to rely on glue at the end grain points, each end has two wood screws that thread 1" into the brace itself.
I took your advice against using the plank and went with original plan (doubled up ply).
I'd say you want veneer.
black walnut veneer - Google Search
Around $3/sq.ft, though you may have to buy a 30+ sq.ft package.
Veneering instructions are easy to find. I'd want a good roller and a small router, but 200 years ago it was hand-work.
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