Aluminum Etching?

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Anyone here tried etching aluminum panels for amplifiers? I'm thinking more like graphics than just labeling volume, channels, etc. I think it would be a cool way to dress up all the space on an amp (mostly tubes).

I've done a little research on etching solutions, but what I'm really wondering about is the resist. Ideally, I'd like to do the graphics by hand, so some kind of marker or pen, or a resist mask that can be carved/peeled away would be ideal.

Haven't done any experimenting yet but hoping someone might have some experience and can give me a place to start playing with the idea.
 
Use the same methods/chemicals as for PCB's: for example an alkali-developed positive resist and a ferric chloride solution for etching.
Hydrochloric acid also works, but it requires H2O2 as a catalyzer, which could be a problem to obtain in the current "situation".
Many other etchants also work on aluminum, but the alkaline types will tend to also damage a positive resist
 
Thanks for the info!

After doing some more reading this morning, I found that there is a non-toxic and non-caustic solution that will work on aluminum (but it won't work on copper):

copper sulfate ... .. 45% (used to treat fruit tree fungus)
sodium bisulfate ... 10% (used in swimming pools and hot tubs)
table salt ............. 45%

These chemicals can be found at the grocery or hardware store and aren't significantly dangerous (and could be safely dumped or flushed once the solution is exhausted).

I'm still wondering about the resist/ground to use. I read one artist that uses regular shellac, which would be easy to get at the places I pick up lumber and woodworking supplies. Ideally I want something I can work with a scribe or knife to draw the graphics.

Like I needed another hobby.
 
Thanks for the YouTube link, JMFahey, I'll check this out.

I'll report back with findings. I haven't seen many people doing this with amplifiers, but I see it on guitar pedals quite a bit. My goal won't be to use the transfer method, but I'm sure there will be good tips on etching and resist solutions.
 
Use the same methods/chemicals as for PCB's: for example an alkali-developed positive resist and a ferric chloride solution for etching.
Hydrochloric acid also works, but it requires H2O2 as a catalyzer, which could be a problem to obtain in the current "situation".
Many other etchants also work on aluminum, but the alkaline types will tend to also damage a positive resist

H2O2 is available at any pharmacy in 3% solution for cleaning wounds. Higher concentrations are available from beauty supply shops. It does make etching PCB go more quickly.
 
Ive seen some work done with brass in the past that looked pretty nice.

Caustic soda (NaOH) will eat away the surface pretty swiftly. Im not sure how it would go with commercially, hard anodised, alluminium, however, diy anodised would, i suspect, be eaten away fairly easily.

What im thinking is you could dye the entire surface, apply resist, and then strip back the colour where it was not required.

I have *not* tested this though...

I'm really not trying to get your trade, but have you considered CNC work. Granted you cant just do it at home, but it might be worth considering?

I guess it depends on the final finish you're after.
 
H2O2 is available at any pharmacy in 3% solution for cleaning wounds. Higher concentrations are available from beauty supply shops. It does make etching PCB go more quickly.
Sure, but H2O2 can also be used to make powerful oxidizers, which is why I wouldn't recommend it in the current situation, even if you only have front panels in mind. Think of TATP for example (don't google THAT unless you want the FBI or equivalent knocking at your door in the following hour!)
 

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> H2O2 can also be used to make powerful oxidizers

First-aid 3% H2O2 is not a "powerful oxidizer". Also the 97% water tends to damp any excitement from the oxidation.

High-proof H2O2 is of course something different. You can get 12% as hair-bleach... this is still not strong enough for big fun. Over 40% becomes "DOT oxidizer" which means you better not spill it on the highway. Rocket designers want even higher proof, and have had a few spectacular accidents.

On the border: Perox-Aid is a 35% solution used in aquaculture, is "a hazardous material", sold in 5 and 55 gallon units I guess to sanitize huge fish tanks. I imagine suppliers already know most of their customers, so a newbie not buying fish-food might be noticed.

I think you can buy any reasonable quantity of 3% without any problems.
 
And here are some photos of the results.
 

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And here are some photos of the results.

That is pretty impressive, and not what i was expecting. The diy etched work ive seen previously has had much more of a, umm, "steam punk" (for want of a better description) look about it, whilst yours looks more like a print.

As i say, impressive work. It looks way better than the lasertran DIY option, the frustration of which was what finally pushed me toward cnc...

Here is some of my engraving work from last week for comparrison -

b_midi.jpg
 
Hi , impressive work both of you.

As of Steam Punk vs Lab Coat vs .... , each one will choose the *graphics* he wants; the stumbling point between ideas and real world products is Technique and that has been covered here in an incredibly practical way.

Thanks all, specially Ilardi :)
 
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