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Ask Scorpion where to get it anodized. He said it was affordable.
Ask Scorpion where to get it anodized. He said it was affordable.
I'm trying to avoid shipping the chassis anywhere, as it will add at least $40 to the cost.. That being the case, I think I'll likely just go the local route.
Unless there is some cheaper way to do it myself, although I highly doubt that.
I could do an alodine solution myself, but that would also cost about $100, as the materials are about $50, and the shipping for those materials is $50.
Yeah you're really just buying convenience there.
have a look here for tips
Aluminum Anodizing at home - DIY aluminium Anodising
Dude... Don't mess with hydropflouric (HF) acid. That s**t's nasty! Seriously nasty. It's used in a lot of products for etching glass.
If you get HF on your skin, you likely won't feel it because it has an anesthetizing effect. You will notice when the fluoride starts replacing the calcium in your bones, though. That's supposed to be super painful. It also makes your bones brittle. Oh, and the reaction doesn't stop until there's no more calcium. It breaks down cell membranes... Even a drop of high concentration HF can be fatal.
Here's a handy link from the CDC: CDC | Facts About Hydrogen Fluoride (Hydrofluoric Acid)
It's used in semiconductor manufacturing, which I where I've learned about its unpleasantries.
Anodizing is the way to go. Do you have the option to get your goods anodized on the shop's schedule? If you can wait a month, the price may be lower as they can just dunk your bits in their soup when it's convenient to them. Can't you Purolate the bits to that outfit in Winnipeg and have them do it with a longer turn-around time?
I've tried the rattle-can clear coat. Not liking it... I had trouble getting it even and ended up settling for something that was "good enough" rather than a paint job that reflected the amount of work and sweat equity invested. Somehow I'm able to lay down black paint just fine on aluminum. Not sure what gives... Maybe the primer I use with the black paint helps on the surface finish.
Tom
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Yea, I have no real background in any sort of chemistry either, so there's no way I'm going to mess around with that, or with the chromic acid for alodining either..
The established lowest charge that the shop in Winnipeg will do is $100, so that's like their minimum fee for anything, no option for putting it in with another batch apparently.
They are willing to work with me a bit though, in that if I prepay, and then set a date for them to do it ahead of time, they'll do it same day.. So I drop it off in the morning, and then pick it up in the evening.. So at least I can make a day trip out of going into Winnipeg, and don't have to go back in to get it another day.
There's one other shop that will do it, but they aren't really getting back to me with any information other than initial contact.. I think once they realized it's a tiny job they kind of lost interest. Both places are massive industrial shops.
There is a local guy though who will powder coat.. So I'm very tempted with that option too, but I don't know if I'd be as happy with that finished product.. Though I am now starting to think about what it would look like with a nice cream colored powder coat finish, rather than going for the aluminum look..
How durable is a powder coat finish in this kind of application?
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powder coat can be pretty heavy duty, but may depend on the powder chemistry and method of application.
It is used to refurbish alloy wheels.
It tends to be thick and is basically a plastic coating (it melts onto the heated surface) and is not a smooth finish. It is usually fairly shiny.
It will act as a Thermal Insulator, whereas anodise is a very good Thermal Conductor.
It is used to refurbish alloy wheels.
It tends to be thick and is basically a plastic coating (it melts onto the heated surface) and is not a smooth finish. It is usually fairly shiny.
It will act as a Thermal Insulator, whereas anodise is a very good Thermal Conductor.
Have it transparent anodized, you *want* that hard transparent oxide covering and protecting your aluminum.
Better controlled, factory applied oxidation than random atmospheric caused one.
Any sprayable clearcoat will eventually scratch, unless you keep your amp behind bars and let no one touch it without gloves.
Better controlled, factory applied oxidation than random atmospheric caused one.
Any sprayable clearcoat will eventually scratch, unless you keep your amp behind bars and let no one touch it without gloves.
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