What is the difference between generic PVA glue and Evo-Stik Resin W Extra Fast Interior Wood Adhesive?
I get the impression that PVA glue is more "watery" than Evo-Stik and it is certainly cheaper but is it better / worse, more or less suitable for speaker cabinet building? Since it is more watery I guess that PVA glue may spread better? Evo-Stik is water soluble before setting, can it be "diluted" before use?
Also, many speaker cabinet DIY instructions strongly advise you to use PVA glue, some advise you to "glue and screw" - should one just glue or glue and screw? Would screwing distort / buckle panels or battens?
EDITED - Just answered my first question (LINK):
Q: Is your wood adhesive based on PVA?
A: Yes, both Wood Adhesive Extra Fast (Resin W) and Evo-Stik Wood Adhesive Weatherproof are based on modified PVA emulsions
I am still curious as to whether one can "water down" Evo-Stik and whether one should "glue and clamp" or "glue and screw"?
I get the impression that PVA glue is more "watery" than Evo-Stik and it is certainly cheaper but is it better / worse, more or less suitable for speaker cabinet building? Since it is more watery I guess that PVA glue may spread better? Evo-Stik is water soluble before setting, can it be "diluted" before use?
Also, many speaker cabinet DIY instructions strongly advise you to use PVA glue, some advise you to "glue and screw" - should one just glue or glue and screw? Would screwing distort / buckle panels or battens?
EDITED - Just answered my first question (LINK):
Q: Is your wood adhesive based on PVA?
A: Yes, both Wood Adhesive Extra Fast (Resin W) and Evo-Stik Wood Adhesive Weatherproof are based on modified PVA emulsions
I am still curious as to whether one can "water down" Evo-Stik and whether one should "glue and clamp" or "glue and screw"?
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You can water it down but that weakens it a bit. Probably still OK for a speaker box especially if you use screws too.
As to clamps or screws, it depends what you have available. I bought clamps as I think it looks messy having screw heads showing and it's a faff to fill them. Plus they make it difficult if you want to do any routering.
If you plan to paint the boxes I recommend you use Cascamite as PVA creeps ever so slightly.
As to clamps or screws, it depends what you have available. I bought clamps as I think it looks messy having screw heads showing and it's a faff to fill them. Plus they make it difficult if you want to do any routering.
If you plan to paint the boxes I recommend you use Cascamite as PVA creeps ever so slightly.
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^^^^^ That.
It might have some additive to improve "something", say slightly faster drying, or a harder or more elastic end joint or better humidity resistance after curing, that kind of things, and it´s fine, but it "still is PVA"
Doubtless excellent quality, I would have no quibbles about using it.
It might have some additive to improve "something", say slightly faster drying, or a harder or more elastic end joint or better humidity resistance after curing, that kind of things, and it´s fine, but it "still is PVA"
Doubtless excellent quality, I would have no quibbles about using it.
There is a world of 'different' PVA formulations - all of which would have the same MSDS. But PVAs can be endlessly modified for different applications, temperatures, setting time, viscosity, chemical resistance, strength and so on. But wallpaper or basic wood glue is probably the 'simplest' of all of them. Yes, you 'can' water it down, although you would only do that if the viscosity was too high for you to apply and you were prepared to put up with a longer drying time.
a 23 gauge pin nailer is amazing for cabinet construction. in my experience the pins are even harder to pull out than brads or finish nails. the holes it makes are almost invisible.
but if you need to screw, look for "trim head" screws, they will pull themselves easily into even Baltic Birch, you wont need to countersink the head and it makes a nice cup to retain filler.
also, I stopped using wood glue to make cabinets. now I use PL polyurethane construction adhesive (comes in a caulk gun tube)
it has the consistency of peanut butter so you can put it where you want it and it stays there. long open time. it's gap filling and slightly expansive, so your interior joints don't need to be perfect.
you can run a finger or a palette knife along the interior joints to make a fillet. great for multi-partitioned cabinets and weird angles, saves lots of time and effort, and it's super strong.
best for paint or veneer finish, it's not going to give you an invisible furniture quality joint.
but if you need to screw, look for "trim head" screws, they will pull themselves easily into even Baltic Birch, you wont need to countersink the head and it makes a nice cup to retain filler.
also, I stopped using wood glue to make cabinets. now I use PL polyurethane construction adhesive (comes in a caulk gun tube)
it has the consistency of peanut butter so you can put it where you want it and it stays there. long open time. it's gap filling and slightly expansive, so your interior joints don't need to be perfect.
you can run a finger or a palette knife along the interior joints to make a fillet. great for multi-partitioned cabinets and weird angles, saves lots of time and effort, and it's super strong.
best for paint or veneer finish, it's not going to give you an invisible furniture quality joint.