Among several projects I'm hoping to test market soon one thing is common, they all have some LEDs. As I've gotten better at making control panel labels, I'm starting to see my simple protruding LEDs as a little less "pro" looking than most of my store-bought gear. Below is one such item in the works. These have several 3MM LEDs that simply protrude through the top, and my question is whether any of you has pioneered other methods of having visible LED indications, maybe without them actually sticking through the surface.
For example, maybe I can punch my holes in the label, but then get some thick flexible plastic (like they use for desk blotter covers) for a "top coat" and NOT punch the LED holes there at all. maybe I can just push the LEDs up against that plastic, so the surface is flush. In most of my "store bought pedals, . the indicators are flush with the top. I can't afford custom light pipes or rectangular leds cutouts, but at least a flush top appearance might be nice. I'm thinking it would mean one less way for spilled liquids to enter the device, but I don't know that it will look decent when the LEDs actually light. Has anyone tried anything like I'm thinking here?
For example, maybe I can punch my holes in the label, but then get some thick flexible plastic (like they use for desk blotter covers) for a "top coat" and NOT punch the LED holes there at all. maybe I can just push the LEDs up against that plastic, so the surface is flush. In most of my "store bought pedals, . the indicators are flush with the top. I can't afford custom light pipes or rectangular leds cutouts, but at least a flush top appearance might be nice. I'm thinking it would mean one less way for spilled liquids to enter the device, but I don't know that it will look decent when the LEDs actually light. Has anyone tried anything like I'm thinking here?
If you use flat top LEDs then you can mount them flush.
You could make the label out of dark tinted translucent plastic without holes, so the LEDs are only visible when lit. Or you could make the entire case and label out of completely transparent plastic and show off the electronics inside (assuming it's neat enough in there).
You could make the label out of dark tinted translucent plastic without holes, so the LEDs are only visible when lit. Or you could make the entire case and label out of completely transparent plastic and show off the electronics inside (assuming it's neat enough in there).
I guess the trouble we all face is making things at reasonable cost, and with the materials available. I'm content to just file my LEDs flat myself, but I have no way of making my label out of dark translucent plastic, and I'm kind of stuck with the cases I have.
Hi there,
the way you described the process of making your labels in the other thread, why don't you try to punch holes for the LEDs into the label just before laminating?
If you mount the LED in a hole in the housing below the label, it should be visible through the clear laminating foil when lit.
Rundmaus
the way you described the process of making your labels in the other thread, why don't you try to punch holes for the LEDs into the label just before laminating?
If you mount the LED in a hole in the housing below the label, it should be visible through the clear laminating foil when lit.
Rundmaus
Hey Rundmaus-- Yeah I'm thinking about that! The other unit was a floor pedal, but part of this same product series. I started experimenting with laminating for the floor version because I knew it would get kicked around for sure. But as you recall, THAT project now needs 8 more LEDs too, and as a floor pedal is even more likely to get something spilled on it.
But I was fishing for other alternatives too. Some kind of plastic layer stiff enough to not require adhesion. Those laminated labels sometimes come out good, and other times bad, often having an intolerable amount of trapped air bubbles. It probably has to do with how much experience the machine operator has, so it does generate a lot of waste (maybe every 3rd or 4th one comes out good.). This was the reason I wanted to try to drill those labels to save them.
Anyway, it will be a long time before I sell enough of my products to be able to have the enclosure company laser/screen all my graphics right onto the plastic for me, so I don't need ANY labels. In the mean time, this is the part people see (the OUTSIDE), so I'm trying my best to glean all the technique options I can.
But I was fishing for other alternatives too. Some kind of plastic layer stiff enough to not require adhesion. Those laminated labels sometimes come out good, and other times bad, often having an intolerable amount of trapped air bubbles. It probably has to do with how much experience the machine operator has, so it does generate a lot of waste (maybe every 3rd or 4th one comes out good.). This was the reason I wanted to try to drill those labels to save them.
Anyway, it will be a long time before I sell enough of my products to be able to have the enclosure company laser/screen all my graphics right onto the plastic for me, so I don't need ANY labels. In the mean time, this is the part people see (the OUTSIDE), so I'm trying my best to glean all the technique options I can.
I'm going to try a few sheets of this clear PETG plastic, currently on ebay...
PETG Clear Plastic Sheets 020" x 12" x 12" | eBay
Its 20 mils thick, and though you cant tell looking at a roll of it, this stuff is both flexible enough to cut, and very strong (I've had some shapes vacuum formed for fr from this stuff). Hopefully it will be stiff enough to cut into the shape of my recesses, and hold down with just a small bead of a clear adhesive around the edge. Can't hurt to try it.
PETG Clear Plastic Sheets 020" x 12" x 12" | eBay
Its 20 mils thick, and though you cant tell looking at a roll of it, this stuff is both flexible enough to cut, and very strong (I've had some shapes vacuum formed for fr from this stuff). Hopefully it will be stiff enough to cut into the shape of my recesses, and hold down with just a small bead of a clear adhesive around the edge. Can't hurt to try it.
LED Holes
In one of the products I make in my day job we had this same issue. We solved it by having our label printed on clear stock. First a white background was printed, leaving clear areas from the LEDs, then the rest of the label was printed on the white background.
Here is a photo of the final assembly.
http://www.mefiburn.com/bigphotos/8435.jpg
The black rings around the clear areas give us some manufacturing tolerances on where the holes are actually drilled in the case behind the label.
In 1500 qty lot buys, these labels are only about $0.30 including the adhesive and full color printing.
In one of the products I make in my day job we had this same issue. We solved it by having our label printed on clear stock. First a white background was printed, leaving clear areas from the LEDs, then the rest of the label was printed on the white background.
Here is a photo of the final assembly.
http://www.mefiburn.com/bigphotos/8435.jpg
The black rings around the clear areas give us some manufacturing tolerances on where the holes are actually drilled in the case behind the label.
In 1500 qty lot buys, these labels are only about $0.30 including the adhesive and full color printing.
I use a hot glue stick to form a transmissive layer inside the hole, and stick the LEDs halfway in.
Other things I've used for this include white closed cell foam, and if there is too little panel thickness for shoving LEDs in halfway, translucent tape from the back of the panel.
A bit of heatshrink on the LEDs helps with reducing light bleed which will happen when you don't mount them inside a panel.
I've considered using optical fibre as well, but the end light is not bright enough for daytime use and does not have good consistency.
Other things I've used for this include white closed cell foam, and if there is too little panel thickness for shoving LEDs in halfway, translucent tape from the back of the panel.
A bit of heatshrink on the LEDs helps with reducing light bleed which will happen when you don't mount them inside a panel.
I've considered using optical fibre as well, but the end light is not bright enough for daytime use and does not have good consistency.
Good ideas, and I'm glad to see I'm not the ONLY one who has to consider "manufacturing tolerances". I'm a little puzzeled, if you start with clear and somehow print 'white" (I assume meaning OPAQUE white) and then print black areas over that, wouldn't the white obscure all the black areas when you looked at it from the other side of the clear plastic?
In any case, it doesn't sound like something I can do at home, and I will not have the financing to make large quantities initially. Sure, once I'm into hundreds, there are tons of options available. But for now, I have to consider methods that I can DIY, and still come out looking good. I think I'm off to a good start, but I'm fishing for other DIY options I may have overlooked..
Thanks! Good thoughts! I'll have to try this and see what the hot glue looks like. And yes... I've also seen some attempts at things like this and saw the light bleed problem you spoke of. It seemed worse because the designer went with a matte/frosted finish to his cover plastic, so I'm thinking I'll stick with clear.
Can't wait to see how the PETG plastic I ordered works. I have a feeling it will work, but will leave me with the dilemma of how to fasten it down without having to put a layer of adhesive over the entire surface of the underlying label.
Problems Problems. But solving them is part of the process, right?
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