Product/project "creep" is my endless nightmare. I have a project built into a wide wedge shaped plastic enclosure, with 10 foot-switch buttons.
I've already done some pretty nice labels by printing them on a full sheet self stick labeling product, and then having them laminated before sticking them on. Of course NOW I've decided it would be VERY nice to have a little LED next to each button. Hindsight is always 20/20. Had I had this profound revelation earlier, I'd have simply drilled the extra holes in the case, and punched out neat round holes in the label BEFORE sticking them on. Well I'll do that NEXT time, but for now I've got 4 of these made, and I'm trying to think of a way to make holes for small (3MM) Leds. If I attempt to drill through the laminated labels, its probably going to twist and tear it all up. If I have to, I'll re-make the labels, but does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe if I use a very small drill and slowly work my way up, I can still create 3MM holes through all the layers, without it being an abortion?
One thought occurred to me, maybe I can melt holes with a soldering iron, as it will at least confine the "mess" to a small smooth area. Then, maybe I can get these nifty Bezels from Tayda (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=3mm+Bezel+LED+Holder+Chrome+Metal ) to cover the less than perfect edges?
I've already done some pretty nice labels by printing them on a full sheet self stick labeling product, and then having them laminated before sticking them on. Of course NOW I've decided it would be VERY nice to have a little LED next to each button. Hindsight is always 20/20. Had I had this profound revelation earlier, I'd have simply drilled the extra holes in the case, and punched out neat round holes in the label BEFORE sticking them on. Well I'll do that NEXT time, but for now I've got 4 of these made, and I'm trying to think of a way to make holes for small (3MM) Leds. If I attempt to drill through the laminated labels, its probably going to twist and tear it all up. If I have to, I'll re-make the labels, but does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe if I use a very small drill and slowly work my way up, I can still create 3MM holes through all the layers, without it being an abortion?
One thought occurred to me, maybe I can melt holes with a soldering iron, as it will at least confine the "mess" to a small smooth area. Then, maybe I can get these nifty Bezels from Tayda (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=3mm+Bezel+LED+Holder+Chrome+Metal ) to cover the less than perfect edges?
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Can you use a punch? It may not damage the labels if you put some painter's tape over them and punch from the label side.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Portable-Hand-Punch/G8780
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REALLY? Well if you think its worth a try. Now I'd heard before (maybe on this forum) that a DULL bit was good for preventing the bit from "grabbing" the work and pulling. But I think that was for the case of bigger holes (like the foot switch holes). So for small 3MM LED holes a sharp bit might work? Any special material (carbide? ordinary steel) or type (wood? metal) Would you recommend a higher speed or lower? My press can go from 700 to 3000 RPM, over 6 pulley step.
Maybe cut the laminate with a sharp brass tube (look up cork borers and sharpeners) slightly larger than the hole, then drill it. Drill "dubbing" is used with brass to keep it from grabbing, but sheet metal is a problem regardless. Dubbing is not the same as a "dull drill", but changes the angle so it scrapes more than cuts. I don't do it with sheet metal. I'd keep the speed up to prevent grabbing, probably 1500 RPM or higher with a small drill. If it's steel you need a drop of oil. Actually beneficial regardless.
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Completely different idea:
Is ist possible to enlarge the holes for the switches slightly?
You could put transparent plastic discs/washers under the nuts holding the switches and try to illuminate them from below the panel with sufficiently bright LEDs. Might look nice, if done correctly.
Rundmaus
EDIT:
I have in mind something like this:
blue: hole for switch with additional cutouts on two sides
red: LEDs mounted below panel
green: disc made from translucent plastic
black: switch
Is ist possible to enlarge the holes for the switches slightly?
You could put transparent plastic discs/washers under the nuts holding the switches and try to illuminate them from below the panel with sufficiently bright LEDs. Might look nice, if done correctly.
Rundmaus
EDIT:
I have in mind something like this:
blue: hole for switch with additional cutouts on two sides
red: LEDs mounted below panel
green: disc made from translucent plastic
black: switch
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Well there is no sheet metal involved here... the label is plastic, the laminate is plastic, and the enclosure is plastic. Maybe I didn't explain right.
Completely different idea:
Is ist possible to enlarge the holes for the switches slightly?
You could put transparent plastic discs/washers under the nuts holding the switches and try to illuminate them from below the panel with sufficiently bright LEDs. Might look nice, if done correctly.
Rundmaus
EDIT:
I have in mind something like this:
blue: hole for switch with additional cutouts on two sides
red: LEDs mounted below panel
green: disc made from translucent plastic
black: switch
Hmmm.. Well that's an interesting idea for the future versions, which I'll keep in mind. thanks. For the current versions though, I think I need to keep this simple.
I'm not sure what kind of sharp brass tube you mean, but it does open up some ideas in my head. Perhaps such a metal tube heated to the point where I can neatly "hopefully neatly" sear through the laminate. That laminate really made my l;labels look great, and gave the project a durable finish. But it seems that "durability" is coming bcak to bite me. now that I want to make a mod!
Use a "brad point" drill bit.
Then something like these:
Panel Indicators, Pilot Lights | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
Then something like these:
Panel Indicators, Pilot Lights | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
Use a "brad point" drill bit.
Then something like these:
Panel Indicators, Pilot Lights | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
Thanks! I don't have any Brad points bits, but O'll find a set and give them a try. High speed for my situation, correct? Also, feed as slow as possible, right?
Thanks for doing that search for me on digi-key too. The exact one I need would have to be 5110F1LC, because I need the low current (2MA) type. Those are unfortunately going non-stock, and are already a bit pricy. I may have to see what similar product I can find on Ali-Express. For now though, unless this holes I can cut are extremely clean, I'll probably have to by my own LED holders that have a wide "forgiving" lip, like these from Tayda
3mm Bezel LED Holder Chrome Metal
I already have over 1000 2mA 3MM LEDs, so it probably makes sense to roll my own this time anyway.
Like KatieandDad stated, clamp it between another piece of material. I can drill perfectly round holes in very thin brass shim stock that way with very nice edges. I'd try clamping a piece of scrap plastic on the front and drill from the backside. You can than do an accurate layout on the back surface.
BillWojo
BillWojo
Just ordered tis 29 piece set from Harbor Freight. I know, they aren't the best, but the whole set is on sale for only $14 today, and it least it has plenty of sizes. Wish me luck!
29 Piece Brad Point Wood Drill Bit Set
29 Piece Brad Point Wood Drill Bit Set
Just ordered tis 29 piece set from Harbor Freight. I know, they aren't the best, but the whole set is on sale for only $14 today, and it least it has plenty of sizes. Wish me luck!
If it is important to you to have a good result, then why do you ignore all the good advice?
Using cheapo drill bits is a really good way to ruin a project like that:
1. If the cutting edges are not made properly, the drill bit might catch in the laminate and tear the surrounding of the hole.
2. If the cheap bit is simply dull, it will heat the plastic instead of cutting it. The result will be an ugly, irregular hole surrounded by an ugly rigde of molten plastic.
3. Cheap drill bits are usually far from straight and centered. Instead of cutting a clean hole, the tip of the drill bit moves around in a circle, cutting an larger hole than expected.
If I had such a delicate drill task, I would tend to spend 14$ on a single bit, not on 29 pieces of cheap scrap metal...
Regards,
Rundmaus
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Since this is a new tool for me, I had nothing to go by for "good or bad", prices or otherwise. I'm sure its China made, but then I have a 10" carbide tipped circular saw blade in my table saw, which i got at a flea market for $5, and it has outlasted one I got from Sears for almost 10X that amount. So I guess I DO want to follow good advice, but have no gauge of reasonable cost, beyond the reviews offered by customers of this product. All the reviews were good, and all had a "much better than I expected" tone. Perhaps it will be workable. If not, I've honestly not seen ANY of this type of drill bit in the small size I'd need (either 5/32 or 1/4 ) for any more than a couple of dollars, while I was looking around for a purchase. So how was I to know really?
When doing really thin stuff and wanting a clean burr free hole I make a sandwich up, usually clamp it between 2 pieces of aluminum or steel.
As far as good drill bits, look at MSC, they have an online catalog. You will be staggered by the number of different types of drills in there. I would ask around and see if anybody you know is a machinist. Making up the metal work for a custom case is easy for me, it's the electronics I have trouble wrapping my head around. I need to find someone in my area that likes to build DAC's for a hobby and work out a deal.
BillWojo
As far as good drill bits, look at MSC, they have an online catalog. You will be staggered by the number of different types of drills in there. I would ask around and see if anybody you know is a machinist. Making up the metal work for a custom case is easy for me, it's the electronics I have trouble wrapping my head around. I need to find someone in my area that likes to build DAC's for a hobby and work out a deal.
BillWojo
@BillWojo - What you've described is why I am so thankful for the internet, and collaborative forums like this. Honestly, even in my fields of greater experience including electronic design and software, I often find myself needing to consult with others, and largely alone, save for forums like this. But when it comes to the mechanics, despite growing up with a Dad who was a master craftsman (now long deceased unfortunately), there are many things I had no clue how to do, which I was able to learn from boards like this. A good recent case, in another enclosure related to this same project, I needed to cut rectangular holes in a thick plastic case. Here, I learned how I could get an X/Y adjustable vise, and some two-flute milling bits, to turn my drill press into a milling machine. Sure it took a few tries to get it right, but I'm forever grateful for the new skill. In that regard, I'm full of gratitude and very big on the idea of being helpful to others. So if you ever find yourself confused over something involving electronic or software related, ring my bell.
I have some experience with DAC, ADC, codecs, and driving them with microprocessors. Tell me what you're trying to accomplish. Maybe we can help each other. Like I said, the internet has made distance at least a little less a problem.
I have some experience with DAC, ADC, codecs, and driving them with microprocessors. Tell me what you're trying to accomplish. Maybe we can help each other. Like I said, the internet has made distance at least a little less a problem.
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