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Old 4th September 2014, 04:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedskater View Post
While steel has shielding advantages at low frequencies, at high radio frequencies copper & aluminum have the advantage.

Mother Earth has nothing to do with shielding.
You may be right, although most of RF cables I have seen have had steel shields. Regarding the grounding, how do you eliminate AC voltage potential induced in the shield?
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Old 4th September 2014, 05:11 PM   #12
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How do they do it in an airplane?
With a good shield system, all the interference stays on the outside of the shield.
And no most shield don't do much shielding with low frequency magnetic fields but that's not about Mother Earth either.
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Old 4th September 2014, 05:48 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Eldam View Post
.. but where this RJ45 go onto this SPIDF plug as JP testimonied about my own capacity
Hi Eldam, I am sure you are creative enough to mount a round connector in a square hole As said, just have an aluminium sheet cut as a new cover, screw or glue it to the case. Now drill the necessary new holes, deburr them (you could use a much bigger drill and turn it by hand in the hole to deburr) and clean the case with thinner or the like, sand it with fine sanding paper when necessary but take care not to sand covers that have "relief" or some kind of pattern on them. Clean it again, paint it with good grey primer (thin!) and then paint it with matte or satin black epoxy paint. Don't use acryl paint. You will regret using cheap acryl paint from supermarkets as it comes off when you take the device out of the audio rack etc. If you like I can make some pictures from some of my "creations". Very old cases from the seventies are the best when they're not corroded. A lot of attention was given then to sturdyness/longevity. However the bottom cover often is treated with cadmium which should not be sanded as its dust is very detrimental for your health !!! It has a typical yellow/greenish oil like shine.

Hardest part is to have the boards and PSU in the case with all wiring optimally placed and this also counts for 230 V inlet, SPDIF, switches, power LED etc. Think first, make a drawing, put the boards loose on a sheet of paper (to avoid scratches) in the case and try to imagine how it will look. Try to go for AC as far away as possible from audio and shortest possible wiring. Check your other equipment if the PSU is located on the left or right side of their cases. It is good practice to go for a standard, so either left or right depending on your other stuff. In case your devices will be placed on the same surface it can be OK to mount the transformer on the left when the other device has the transformer on the right. It will have lowest stray fields and input/output wiring will be tidy and close to the connecting side of the other device. Think about that.

Print this out and attach it to your audio working desk I am quite sure you will have a different view on for instance an old metal cased car battery charger that you want to throw away from now on...
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Last edited by jean-paul; 4th September 2014 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 4th September 2014, 06:06 PM   #14
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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thank you guys for your inputs. Have to go with the tools now !
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Old 5th September 2014, 01:16 PM   #16
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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tHANK YOU VERY MUCH MARCE,

Since you give us didactic links, I maid a folder named "Layout"

Well D800 is more than a serious shooter !

I don't now all the technics to add artificial deep field on the photographs but the multiple rapid shoots with a manual focusing mvt with the lense and after the merge of the files in such software : StereoPhoto Maker (English)

I still have my old manual argentic Balda for street photography & family pictures... but would like to go to a "not" too expensive Fuji CMOS la XM1 or XE2 when we will travell again... Liked some years ago the mini travel shooter like the little Sony... Younger I travelled in some countries like China, India or Indonesia with 3 k of material to photograph + my Bag-Pack ... Never again !
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