I've read several threads here regarding DIY circuit boards. When my own company was in its infancy, we did make our own prototype 2-sided boards, some as big as 12-by-16 inches. We used tiny eyelets to create plated-through holes and had great success. But we outgrew that and now send out Gerber files for prototype quantities at big bucks.
Now I have personal need for basic boards... just one (not five), no plating, no silkscreen, in fact it doesn't even need to be drilled. But I don't want to get back into etching, etc. So does anyone here either do, or know of a source for, DIY one-off boards at a reasonable price? Thanks!
Now I have personal need for basic boards... just one (not five), no plating, no silkscreen, in fact it doesn't even need to be drilled. But I don't want to get back into etching, etc. So does anyone here either do, or know of a source for, DIY one-off boards at a reasonable price? Thanks!
We used 1mm terminal pins for vias.
In the UK prototype pcb's can be expensive.
I always get mine made in China for a 1/3 of the price in the UK.
I get them in 2 weeks and get a quality service.
Thanks for the tips re: plated-through holes. We began by putting a tiny piece of stripped wire-wrap wire through the hole and soldering it on both sides before inserting the part. That seemed to work fine, but was a hassle, and it might come out when a part was replaced (lots of that on prototypes). Later we got an eyeletting arbor press and bought eyelets that would go through a 0.047" hole. The eyelets we used had a funnel shape on both sides, so there was a fillet of solder between the pad and the eyelet, both sides. That never failed. Go to: internationaleyelets.com and to their catalog page for 'funnel' eyelets for PCBs. They specialize in PCB eyelets, not the craft ones that Michael's sells. We used their Y-4793-B, a brass eyelet, rather than copper, because the brass didn't tarnish and would take solder easily. They also sell 'setting' tools, which I recommend, as they make a tight joint without deforming the center hole. The center hole, by the way, is 0.035" and will take a component lead or DIP socket nicely. We used eyelets even when we could solder both sides (resistors, for instance).
BUT... all this is the easy and fun part. I want to avoid staining my clothes with Ferric Chloride, taping negatives to a strip of board so the two sides line up, etc. LPFK makes those machines that will mill traces into board stock; doesn't anyone who buys one of those want to make some money using it for other than their own prototypes?
BUT... all this is the easy and fun part. I want to avoid staining my clothes with Ferric Chloride, taping negatives to a strip of board so the two sides line up, etc. LPFK makes those machines that will mill traces into board stock; doesn't anyone who buys one of those want to make some money using it for other than their own prototypes?
You can use Pharmacy type Hydrogen Peroxide and Household cleaning Hydrochloric acid mixed in a 2:1 ratio. Works in 2 minutes flat when fresh ! You need to rock the tray slightly for quick action. No stains or problems like Ferric Chloride.
Try it, it's amazingly fast. Probably can add baking soda to neutralise the acid if you want to pour it down the sink. You can reuse the mixture for a few days. The Hydrogen Peroxide decay's easily. You could add more Hyrdogen peroxide to reuse it, till the etch speed slows down too much.
Use a plastic or glass tray just slightly bigger than the board and only enough liquid to fully submerge the board with about 5mm more to spare. This ensures that you don't waste much if only one board is etched. You must rock the tray slowly and gently for quick action.
Try it, it's amazingly fast. Probably can add baking soda to neutralise the acid if you want to pour it down the sink. You can reuse the mixture for a few days. The Hydrogen Peroxide decay's easily. You could add more Hyrdogen peroxide to reuse it, till the etch speed slows down too much.
Use a plastic or glass tray just slightly bigger than the board and only enough liquid to fully submerge the board with about 5mm more to spare. This ensures that you don't waste much if only one board is etched. You must rock the tray slowly and gently for quick action.
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We use 4pcb.com for lots of our boards. They are complete, professional pcbs, drilled, plated, silk screens, solder masks, though any of these can be omitted if desired at the same price.
For up to 60 square inches, a two layer board is $33 each for 4 or more copies (plus about $20 per order s/h). If you are a student, you can buy just one board.
Alternatively, Osh Park is great and cheap for smaller boards.
OSH Park or ExpressPCB are probably our best options if you don't want to start your own garage fab.
https://oshpark.com/
ExpressPCB - Free PCB layout software - Low cost circuit boards - Top quality PCB manufacturing
OSH takes Gerbers. ExpressPCB requires you to use their proprietary (but free) tools.
~Tom
https://oshpark.com/
ExpressPCB - Free PCB layout software - Low cost circuit boards - Top quality PCB manufacturing
OSH takes Gerbers. ExpressPCB requires you to use their proprietary (but free) tools.
~Tom
I use the Fusion PCB service at Seeedstudio https://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php?r=site/pcbService
It's very inexpensive, good quality, and I've had zero problems. The only thing is that it's not quick turn - expect a week for production and two to three weeks for delivery.
It's very inexpensive, good quality, and I've had zero problems. The only thing is that it's not quick turn - expect a week for production and two to three weeks for delivery.
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