Hello everyone, this is my first post on here.
I have a 4ohm mid bass and an 8ohm tweeter connected to my amplifier with a passive crossover set at 6000Hz (2nd order butter).
Does anyone know what the resulting impedance is on this? I was an idiot for not purchasing an 8ohm midbass to match with the tweeter, since my amplifier only supports a 6ohm minimum.
What can I do to correct this?
I would like to avoid ordering new parts to match up a crossover of 8ohms if I were to correct the impedance of the woofer, but if it's the only way I suppose I don't have a choice..
By the way, these are LR speakers for a home theater system.
Thanks!
I have a 4ohm mid bass and an 8ohm tweeter connected to my amplifier with a passive crossover set at 6000Hz (2nd order butter).
Does anyone know what the resulting impedance is on this? I was an idiot for not purchasing an 8ohm midbass to match with the tweeter, since my amplifier only supports a 6ohm minimum.
What can I do to correct this?
I would like to avoid ordering new parts to match up a crossover of 8ohms if I were to correct the impedance of the woofer, but if it's the only way I suppose I don't have a choice..
By the way, these are LR speakers for a home theater system.
Thanks!
The impedance that affects your amplifier is essentially what the woofer is. 4Ω may or may not be an issue depending on how hard you run it. If you have a large and small setting on your HT receiver set it to small and you may bypass the low point on the impedance curve of the driver and be ok. Hard to say without further info on the drivers and receiver.
What are the values for a 2nd order lowpass at 6 kHz ? 100 uH and 0.47 uF ?
I guess that it's only in the tweeter path
6 Ω is typical for HT, isn't it ? Not too low, not too high
But, if it sounds good, why worry ? Check power stage temperature with the hand when playing loud for a minute and leave the case opened...force cooling
I guess that it's only in the tweeter path
6 Ω is typical for HT, isn't it ? Not too low, not too high
But, if it sounds good, why worry ? Check power stage temperature with the hand when playing loud for a minute and leave the case opened...force cooling
2.2uF 0.15mH 4.7uF 0.33mH for the butterworth. Caps are polypropelene. I have a Yamaha V675 that i got a couple months ago so i think it goes without saying that i care a lot more about the receiver than i do these new speakers. Luckily its a good one and has a heat shutoff feature. Is there any impedance correction circuit that can bring up the impedance of a speaker? Everything i have seen online brings down the impedance and Ive never heard of a 4ohm resistor that can handle 100W.
There's the autoformer which is ( seldom ! ) used to reduce efficiency of big woofers...and there are transformers. A 8 Ω speaker would be better!
But it is frequently used, the 4 Ω woofer, in "wanna-be" speakers that claim high power...for the fact that the amplifier is forced to supply more current
But it is frequently used, the 4 Ω woofer, in "wanna-be" speakers that claim high power...for the fact that the amplifier is forced to supply more current
It doesn't work like that. First, a 12" shouldn't be mated with a tweeter : you need something in between. At that point, you'll find that a 6" mid-woofer would be far better.
Better "integration" ( that's a big world..! ) with the room/distances and with the other driver(s), nonetheless a smaller box which is less prone to reflect sound.
Second, you can't buy an ( unknown) crossover and pretend that the system'll sound good. The various paths in the crossover circuit are modeled upon the specific drivers you intend to use, and how you use them.
So, before buying the speakers and build the boxes there must be a project!
Third, but it goest to first!, the resistance is not equal to impedance: you can't add a 4 Ω resistor to a 4 Ω speaker and pretend that the amplifier "sees" a 8 Ω load; the resistor mantains his resistance equal at all audio frequencies and doesn't convert power into sound; the speaker doesn't...
Better "integration" ( that's a big world..! ) with the room/distances and with the other driver(s), nonetheless a smaller box which is less prone to reflect sound.
Second, you can't buy an ( unknown) crossover and pretend that the system'll sound good. The various paths in the crossover circuit are modeled upon the specific drivers you intend to use, and how you use them.
So, before buying the speakers and build the boxes there must be a project!
Third, but it goest to first!, the resistance is not equal to impedance: you can't add a 4 Ω resistor to a 4 Ω speaker and pretend that the amplifier "sees" a 8 Ω load; the resistor mantains his resistance equal at all audio frequencies and doesn't convert power into sound; the speaker doesn't...
The project actually started as a refurbish on some old speakers. So I don't have a choice at this point to put a 6 inch in since it won't fit.
I clearly had no idea how involved it was to worry about the impedance, but I will do some more research and see if I need a zobel network or something.
I had always just seen speakers modeled as resistors in theory and never realized that they are actually complex and change with frequency.
I clearly had no idea how involved it was to worry about the impedance, but I will do some more research and see if I need a zobel network or something.
I had always just seen speakers modeled as resistors in theory and never realized that they are actually complex and change with frequency.
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