Hi all, just wondering how to best repair my speaker cabinet. It's the seem joint that came undone due to a idiot friend dropping it, is it best to take the whole panel off then re glue it? Or try and glue it from the inside? I don't wanna snap/tear the bottom joint pulling it apart....
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I think all the other joints are "ok" what happened, when the delivery guy arrived I could already hear something banging around in the box (speaker was hanging out) the screw holes for them are shot also (I'll post a pic of them) then it was just that one joint and down the side that was loose.
I bought some standard epoxy resin hoping that would be strong enough to do the job, already have wood clamps etc etc
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Attempting to remove any of those internal chipboard parts could create far more problems than solve - if anything, I'd "sister" any questionable bracing with plywood or solid
Actually, if convinced that the drivers merit the effort, I'd frankly start a new build with plywood and consign the damaged boxes to the dumpster.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I had to get that off my chest
Actually, if convinced that the drivers merit the effort, I'd frankly start a new build with plywood and consign the damaged boxes to the dumpster.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I had to get that off my chest
I would suggest that you remove the existing internal brace and replace with say a one inch square piece right along this joint. I would:
- use a chisel to cut out the existing material
- cut a length on one inch square timber batten to the length of the joint
- pre drill it for screws as once it is in the box you won't be able to. Remember that the screws will need to be at an angle to allow you to get a driver to them as the box walls will get in the way
- squidge glue into the joint
- put glue along the joint where the batten needs to go
- align the batten to where the internal joint ought to be. Remember that as the box is broken this will initially leave a gap between the batten and the remaining side/ top of the box.
- screw the batten down. Three screws sounds right to me along the batten.
- screw the other side. This will initially have a gap. If you got the batten placement right it should pull the remaining side in.
Hmmm. You do need tools. I doubt that there is an easy way to fix this.
If you also have some ratchet straps, which you say you don't, then you could ratchet strap right around the speaker before screwing the batten in.
If desperate do this without adding the batten. But I doubt this would be really successful.
Last desperate bodge would to be using acrylic filler, I.e. The stuff you get in 40 mm tubes and apply a huge amount along the inside joint. Then do whatever it takes to force the joint closed while it dries.... Give it a day or three.
- use a chisel to cut out the existing material
- cut a length on one inch square timber batten to the length of the joint
- pre drill it for screws as once it is in the box you won't be able to. Remember that the screws will need to be at an angle to allow you to get a driver to them as the box walls will get in the way
- squidge glue into the joint
- put glue along the joint where the batten needs to go
- align the batten to where the internal joint ought to be. Remember that as the box is broken this will initially leave a gap between the batten and the remaining side/ top of the box.
- screw the batten down. Three screws sounds right to me along the batten.
- screw the other side. This will initially have a gap. If you got the batten placement right it should pull the remaining side in.
Hmmm. You do need tools. I doubt that there is an easy way to fix this.
If you also have some ratchet straps, which you say you don't, then you could ratchet strap right around the speaker before screwing the batten in.
If desperate do this without adding the batten. But I doubt this would be really successful.
Last desperate bodge would to be using acrylic filler, I.e. The stuff you get in 40 mm tubes and apply a huge amount along the inside joint. Then do whatever it takes to force the joint closed while it dries.... Give it a day or three.
I had to do that fix before. I used a syringe to get good glue coverage inside with drywall screws to clamp it together. They have good bite in particle board. Just don't over heat them they will snap off. Strap clamping first would be a good idea then theres less chance of stripping pilot holes out. If you can disassemble, biscuits and glue are the best for keeping particle board together. And a drywall screw in between each. If it ever comes apart again it wont be at that joint.
I'd avoid use of drywall screws - at least the ones I've seen here - phillips head and the brittle steel is a recipe for stripping heads and snapping shanks of screws - much better would be a proper #8 lo-root wood screw (Robertson socket) with nibbed head for self countersinking.
Straps and cauls would definitely work to evenly distribute the clamping force before pilot drilling and screwing.
But I worry that if mitred corner is badly damaged, there could be enough delamination of the PB core deeper than the length of screws that you might not be able to get enough penetration with whatever type of glue to ensure a sound repair of the joint and grip of screw threads.
Straps and cauls would definitely work to evenly distribute the clamping force before pilot drilling and screwing.
But I worry that if mitred corner is badly damaged, there could be enough delamination of the PB core deeper than the length of screws that you might not be able to get enough penetration with whatever type of glue to ensure a sound repair of the joint and grip of screw threads.
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