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Enclosure building specific techniques for general cabinetmaker?
Enclosure building specific techniques for general cabinetmaker?
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Old 15th April 2014, 05:46 AM   #21
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Some not so wonderful snaps of the Tannoys - building takes longer, but might just be easier than getting good photos - the last one is for sense of scale - this is about the smallest box into which one would want to put the Tannoy Dual Monitor Gold 12s
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Old 15th April 2014, 11:58 AM   #22
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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Hi Chris, all this time and energy for something that is going to take away from the final look, like putting bumper stickers on your new car.
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Old 15th April 2014, 04:43 PM   #23
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Paul - the total cost ( time & material) to fabricate the grilles was less than that to trim out the veneer on the port slots (even with lot's of practice, they still take about 5 minutes each) - and when the customer asks for grilles....
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Old 26th November 2017, 12:16 AM   #24
In Phase is offline In Phase  United States
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I'm building a subwoofer. I was wondering what peoples preferences are for wood screws.
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Old 26th November 2017, 02:39 AM   #25
nigelwright7557 is online now nigelwright7557  United Kingdom
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The most important thing in cabinet building is accuracy.
Badly fitting panels look terrible.

While I have a circular saw I always get my DIY store to cut the wood to the correct widths then I cut down later to right length. This means when they get glued they are all the right widths and there are no gaps. Then when I fit last panel there are big gaps to fill with glue.
Be as accurate with cutting as possible. Measure twice and cut once.
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Old 27th November 2017, 10:15 PM   #26
In Phase is offline In Phase  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelwright7557 View Post
The most important thing in cabinet building is accuracy.
Badly fitting panels look terrible.

While I have a circular saw I always get my DIY store to cut the wood to the correct widths then I cut down later to right length. This means when they get glued they are all the right widths and there are no gaps. Then when I fit last panel there are big gaps to fill with glue.
Be as accurate with cutting as possible. Measure twice and cut once.
Thanks Nigel.

Most of the wood is already cut so there is no going back and redoing that now. If I was going to have someone else cut, I would use a CNC service. I learned some things on the first pair of subs that I will apply to the next pairs.

Next time when I use the cut sheet program I will definitely put a larger kerf space inbetween pieces so I have excess I can trim and I'll probably use a router table for the trimming to keep the right angles at the edges perfect.

My plan has been to hold off on the gluing everything together phase of assembly, until after I am absolutely sure all the parts will fit together properly. That is where the screws come in. Before I glue everything my plan had been to assemble the cabinets with a couple of precisely located screws then if any parts needed massaging to fit properly I could take my time to do it carefully instead of frantically rushing to make things fit before the glue dries.

I already know there may be a couple of pieces that may need a millimeter sanded off where they come together so the top panel will sit flush across them.

Once I am sure everything will play nice I will disassemble the screws then glue and reassemble. Then I'll use the screws to help align the panels in lieu of using alignment dowels if I can get away with it, because I don't want to have to buy another tool, otherwise I'll use alignment dowels.

That is why I was wondering if people have any preferences with screws. The wood I am using is 18mm thick marine grade Russian Birch. I am planning to use screws that aren't threaded at the top as I understand full length threads can interfere with clamping two panels together.
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Old 28th November 2017, 12:51 AM   #27
PRR is offline PRR  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by In Phase View Post
....screws that aren't threaded at the top as I understand full length threads can interfere with clamping two panels together.
Yes; or drill the top panel clearance for the screw shank.

If not doing yahoo carpentry, that's what you would do anyway.
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