Recommended glue for glueing plywood to MDF? - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 27th February 2014, 10:16 PM   #11
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Well that's probably more important really for "veneering" i.e. thin raw or backed veneers, than for the described application of finished plywood skins ( I assume no thicker than 1/4"). For adhering such skins with glue rather than contact cement, you'll need to be sure you've got evenly distributed pressure to ensure full adhesion, either by vacuum bagging or cold pressing with platens of scrap material larger than the face panels and weights. It might not take tons of weight to equal the pressure of 14.7 lb psi., but it's the uniform distribution of that pressure while the glue is drying that counts.
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Old 27th February 2014, 10:29 PM   #12
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Thanks again Chris, superb advice. So for my plywood skin I use PVA glue, then use something bigger than cabinet surface for even distribution with weights on top.

Making sure the cabinet surface is flat first.
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Old 28th February 2014, 08:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewart Holmes View Post
Thanks Andrew, do you think I should apply glue on the end grain of the MDF let it dry, sand it, then apply the plywood?
I wouldn't do that, it's simply not necessary to seal MDF end grain on a simple butt jointed box. In fact you will probably make it weaker as PVA doesn't stick very well to itself.

I also wouldn't bother sanding the good faces down either. Just make sure they are clean and free of dust and fingerprints and oils etc. PVA will soak in no problem.
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Old 28th February 2014, 10:12 AM   #14
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Cheers Richie for your advice it's easy to do things the hard way and appreciate all the advice.
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Old 28th February 2014, 07:06 PM   #15
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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richie - if not clear my comment re sanding the MDF was in the context of veneering.

I've found it gives much better adhesion when using the iron-on method and yellow PVA glue, and since you'll want to sand all exposed joints anyway to clean up squeeze out and telegraphing of less than perfect seams, it doesn't really take all that much longer with a RO sander.
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Old 28th February 2014, 07:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
squeeze out
That's a much nicer term than bleed out, I think I'm going to adopt it.

Just saying it sounds nice.
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Old 14th March 2014, 11:33 AM   #17
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I've ordered some Titebond II for the plywood skin on my MDF cabinets.

I were going to get PVA but I got a good deal on the Titebond II.

Should I use a roller or brush on application and I am right by gluing both sides?
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Old 14th March 2014, 12:14 PM   #18
kuroguy is offline kuroguy  Germany
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when applying titebond, I like to use a squeegee (the edge of a credit card works well) and I like to apply it to both surfaces. A brush or roller applies way too much glue. Also, make sure to get 100% coverage of the surfaces with glue.
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Old 14th March 2014, 12:45 PM   #19
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Thanks kuroguy much appreciated, I've the perfect spreader in mind for the job.
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Old 15th March 2014, 11:29 AM   #20
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There's a lot of movement in the first 30 minutes after applying the weight, yet had no problems so far.

Iv'e done the back panel of the cabinet first and its had weight on for 15 hours, should I leave it for 24 hours before removing the weight and trim the edges? Thanks again.
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