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Old 29th January 2014, 01:41 AM   #11
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Thanks guys. Is the two ply more difficult for a first timer to get good results with? Can I use iron method, more difficult to cut?

Thanks
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Old 29th January 2014, 03:36 AM   #12
evanc is offline evanc  United States
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I've never tried the iron on method but it looks simple enough. Try it with some paper back as Chris suggested on a scrap to get the feel for it. I would still apply the veneer over sized and trim it to the edges for a perfect fit.
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Old 29th January 2014, 04:04 PM   #13
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
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Sbrukow, thanks for making this beginner's thread. I am watching it carefully, as I want to veneer 2 speakers that I just made out of MDF. Enclosure size is 5" Wide x 32" High x 6" Deep with a 3-1/4" round opening for the driver, a 2-3/4" round opening for the binding posts terminal cup, and a front firing rectangular vent.

Before people start suggesting this and that type of venner or wood, be advised that in Puerto Rico everything is available, everything is only a few minutes drive away, but all the wood veneer is extremely expeeeeensiiiiive. I have some leftover raw (not paperbacked) gorgeous veneer that a friend of mine gave me, leftover from a job done refurbishing the inside of a private jet. So, that is what I will use. It is bare, not paper-backed. I have a router, which I will not use, as I am still trying to figure out how to control it. I would adhere using the iron method or the cold press method, and trim using a very sharp utility knife.

I will veneer a scrap piece of mdf to get the feel of it. If Sbrunkow doesn't mind the slight "hijack"...Any recommendations as far as finishing the pieces? Stains, clear oils, varnish, poly, lacquer, etc.? I would like a glossy finish, but would hate to be sanding 5 times. Also, what is the best tool to apply the protective coat (varnish/poly/lacquer)? A foam roller maybe?
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Old 29th January 2014, 05:44 PM   #14
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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I've had better results using cold press / vacuum bagging than iron-on with the 2-ply, and while the thicker material is easy enough to cut with power tools (saw / router), it's harder with scissors or utility knife, and certainly trickier to trim out around the shallow recessed cutouts that I described earlier.

Guangui - practice particularly on the cross-grain trimming on edges ( I personally use a thick blade 2" wide chisel in a series of short downward rotating strokes when trimming cross grain). The bonus to using solid raw veneer flitches is that they're generally more than thick enough for any small tooling marks from router trim bearings or chisel marks to sand out. On paper backed, the paper is often thicker than the veneer - you find out the hard way how much so.

Re finishing top coats / application techniques - if the surface area is small enough, you can get very decent results with aerosol spray lacquer such as Deft, Mohawk, etc. , or hand rubbed oil etc.

As mentioned above, I'm a lazy bugger, and have access to commercial shop spray booth, so I tend to use a 2-3 coats of pre-catalyzed nitro cellulose lacquer, with a light sanding between each.

I'm not at all a fan of polyurethane finishes on wood - even the best tend to look like plastic laminate.
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Last edited by chrisb; 29th January 2014 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 30th January 2014, 03:12 AM   #15
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
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If I had access to a CNC machine and spray booth, I would use it all the time, that is not being lazy, that is being efficient. I only have access to a Victaulic Grooving Machine, a pipe plasma cutter, a Ridgid Pipe Threading Maching, industrial band saw, hydraulic crimper, steel plate cutter, hose cutter, McElroy HDPE fusion machine, and welding equipment. If I ever need to make a speaker in a steel enclosure it will be no problem.

Here is a picture of the Walnut Veneer I will be using.
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Old 30th January 2014, 03:39 PM   #16
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Interesting timing talking about finish top coat materials - I'm currently down to the short strokes on a pair of bespoke enclosures on which the client wanted an Watco oil stain and wax or varnish top coat

A local hardwood flooring & railing dealer turned me on to a product I'd not tried before - Saman Oil Based Hybrid Varnish. I had no trouble applying with foam brush, and was pretty happy with the results.
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Old 30th January 2014, 05:49 PM   #17
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Interesting timing talking about finish top coat materials - I'm currently down to the short strokes on a pair of bespoke enclosures on which the client wanted an Watco oil stain and wax or varnish top coat

A local hardwood flooring & railing dealer turned me on to a product I'd not tried before - Saman Oil Based Hybrid Varnish. I had no trouble applying with foam brush, and was pretty happy with the results.
Easy to apply with good results!!! You are talking my language.
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Old 30th January 2014, 05:54 PM   #18
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
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Maybe a stupid question...When applying varnishes or poly's, do I need to sand the last coat? If so, what grit should I use?
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Old 30th January 2014, 06:18 PM   #19
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guangui View Post
Maybe a stupid question...When applying varnishes or poly's, do I need to sand the last coat? If so, what grit should I use?

yes, sand between coats (usually 2-3 coats) - 180 to 220G with the grain is usually fine- not after the last coat
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Old 20th February 2014, 01:50 PM   #20
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Default Wood Veneer Application

If you're new at applying wood veneer, here is a link to lots of tips and info.
Tips and Info: Applying Wood Veneer Sheets | Oakwood Veneer Company

Hope it helps!
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