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T-nut question
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Old 7th January 2014, 10:04 PM   #1
MattSPL is offline MattSPL  Ireland
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Default T-nut question

I'm putting a pair of 165mm drivers into a cutout for 170mm drivers.
The holes for fixing the new 165mm drivers are very close to the inner edge of the cutout.

If I put T-nuts in, 1 or 2 of the fixing spikes and part of the threaded section might end up in the cutout. Will the T-nuts work like this or will they be unstable?

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Matt
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Old 7th January 2014, 10:42 PM   #2
Cal Weldon is offline Cal Weldon  Canada
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T-nut question
Consider threaded inserts.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=threa...m=119&ie=UTF-8
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Old 7th January 2014, 10:47 PM   #3
MattSPL is offline MattSPL  Ireland
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Thanks, I'll have a look for some of those.

Cheers
Matt
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Old 8th January 2014, 03:44 AM   #4
Enzo is online now Enzo  United States
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You can also stake down the T-nuts even if one tooth hangs in the air. SOme builders drive a wood screw into the wood of the baffle onto the edge of the T-nut, so the nut flange is caught under the screw head. That keeps the nut from coming out. Some cabinet makers also use heavy staples - like they sometimes use to make furniture. Run a staple or two down across the nut flange to keep it in place.
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Old 8th January 2014, 04:40 AM   #5
Absconditus is offline Absconditus  Australia
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+1 and consider some contact cement as well. Those little buggers won't go anywhere.

Abs
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Old 8th January 2014, 06:29 AM   #6
MattSPL is offline MattSPL  Ireland
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Thanks for the reply's. I'm hoping the T-nuts arrive today so I can have a go at it tonight.

Cheers
Matt
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Old 9th January 2014, 08:51 PM   #7
chrisb is offline chrisb
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perhaps too late to add to Cal's suggestion re threaded inserts - in our commercial millwork fabrications, the only place we'll use T-nuts is for adjustable glides on the bottom of free-standing furniture gables, where they're not so likely to fall out


I like the socket head steel inserts best myself - as they're nowhere near as likely to shear off as the softer alloy or brass fittings during installation

(recently found the Rampa Tec brand - Type SK - available in a range of imperial and metric internal threads)
https://shopen.rampa.com/shop.html
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Old 9th January 2014, 09:02 PM   #8
MattSPL is offline MattSPL  Ireland
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I think the threaded inserts will risk busting through the inner rim of the driver cutout and falling out. There just isn't enough mdf around the hole where the insert would go.

The T-nuts still haven't arrived, but I did install the drivers temporarily by drilling a 2.5mm pilot hole and using 3mm screws. I will then be able to enlarge the holes for T-nuts.

One thing I need to do is block/fill the old T-nuts as they are leaking air out the cabinet just around the edge of the driver.
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Old 9th January 2014, 09:06 PM   #9
chrisb is offline chrisb
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is this where we get to say - high density plywood would provide better thread holding properties than MDF, particularly that near the edge of driver opening?

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Old 9th January 2014, 09:10 PM   #10
MattSPL is offline MattSPL  Ireland
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Unfortunately, these are pair of commercially built active monitors that I am having a go at improving by upgrading the drivers. It was a bit of a gamble as all I had to go by was driver impedance and crossover frequency.

I needed a 4 ohm mid/bass unit to fit a 170mm cutout that could be crossed at 3Khz, so I bought a pair of SB acoustics Satori mid/bass units.
The results are very promising so far
I'll post some pics when I'm done.
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